Bosch Kloof
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This are is open again as of 23 March 2015
Please note: The whole of Bosch Kloof was closed down by the owner in the past Posted 24 March 2010
Access was re-negotiated, and the kloof was re-opened on the 23rd of March 2015.
NB: The owner of the Tolhuis Accommodation does not own the land on which any of these crags are situated.
All of the crags described below are on private land.
You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel without a permit
A permit is required for Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull
Permits can be obtained at http://www.montaguclimbing.com
DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag. You may drive in if you are staying over night at Die Tollhuis. This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules. The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof.
Roadworks: Due to roadworks you may need to find alternative parking - it is possible to park directly across from Legoland.
How to get there
From Ashton/Cape Town direction: The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.
From Montagu direction: Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge.
Trash and Toilets
There are no trash cans at the crag, so take your own trash bag with you & take all your trash home (this includes cigarette bugs, tendon tape, toilet paper, plastic bottles, sweet wrappers and human waste... you get the point (we hope).
There are no toilets at or near the crags. So if you must pee, go far away from the crag and far away from the river. Do not leave any toilet paper.
And (as gross as it may seem)
You must bag your poo / human waste.
Zip Lock Bags are to be carried by all parties.
Cell Phone Reception
For the most part there is no cellphone reception at any of these crags. Although on some days cell phones on the MTN network can get signal at the parking area.
Bosch Kloof Climbing Map
Bosch Kloof Crags
Legoland
Legoland is Montagu's most popular climbing area due to the easier grade of routes and quick access.
Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed.
Vertical, 30 second flat walk, Early morning shade & Late Afternoon shade
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | I Tink Not | 12 | 6 | Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | This is the furthest left route (#1). Located around the east facing corner. | |
| 2 | I Bewieve So | 16 | 7 | Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | Same start as #1- I Tink Not but climbs to the chains of #3 - I Bewieve So Direct | |
| 3 | I Bewieve So Direct | 16 | 7 | Jason Temple-Forbes 2002 | ||
| 4 | The Rope Man | 17 | 9 | *** | Deon Knipe 2003 | #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #4 climbs the left route and has it's own top anchors. |
| 5 | The Missing Link | 17 | 7 | *** | Stuart Brown 2003 | #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #5 climbs to the anchors of #6. |
| 6 | Hey, Come On | 19 | 7 | *** | Tony Lourens 1993 | #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #6 climbs the right route and has it's own top anchors. |
| 7 | Persitence of Time | 19 | 6 | ** | Derek Marshall 2003 | Climb up the arete |
| 8 | Bon Giorno Bambina | 21 | 11 | **** | Tony Lourens 1997 | Long route in the dark corner. 60 meter rope required! |
| 9 | Bolt Your Bitch | 22 | 3 | John Terblanche 1998 | Climb under the BIG overhang onto the face | |
| 10 | Slap and Tickle | 21 | 3 | John Terblanche 1998 | Climb up the ramp and onto the face | |
| 11 | Crack Baby | 18 | 8 | **** | Stuart Brown | Climb up into and through the crack under the shady nook to the left of Eddy. |
| 12 | Eddy of Bovidence | 24 | 4 | *** | Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993 | Classic grade 24 testpiece. Short & Powerful |
| 13 | Cheapskate Student | 24 | 4 | Craig Bruton 1998 | Not the most popular climb at this crag. Careful belaying is advised. | |
| 14 | Cleinous Hing | 24 | 4 | Ed February 1994 | Short & Powerful. Careful belaying is advised. | |
| 15 | Baboons on the Roof | 21 | 4 | B Whitehead 2004 | Powerful finishing move at the end. | |
| 16 | Caramel Roller Coaster | 17 | 6 | Stuart Brown 2004 | ||
| 17 | Chocolate Speedway | 18 | 6 | **** | Guy Holwill 1993 | Classic grade 18 test piece. |
| 18 | Life and Times of Mike Hunt | 15 | 5 | *** | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
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| 19 | Not with New Brim | 15 | 6 | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
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| 20 | Oh My Goodness | 18 | 4 | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
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| 21 | Mild Thing | 15 | 4 | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
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| 22 | Easy Does It | 16 | 5 | Beth Higgins 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
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| 23 | Pipe Dreams | 18 | 6 | Nick Matthews 1994. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
The first route on the right hand side of the crag. |
The Far Side
The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 5 minutes
Routes from Left to Right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Cow Poetry | 23 | (7B) | FA: K Donald 1995 | ||
| 2. | Route Number One | 22 | (7B) | **** | FA: AdK 1994 Nov 2011. Retro-bolted By J Lawson & M Wiswedel |
Classic Grade 22 test piece. Excellent route! |
| 3. | Skinny Legs and All | 23 | (6B) | FA: P Becker 1995 |
The Panel Crags
The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland. This crag is less popular due to the steep walk-in. To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 20 minutes
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Time Wool Tell | 16 | 5 Bolts | Illona Pelser 2021 | Like Lambs wall | |
| 2 | Like Lambs | 24 | 10 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | The overhanging climb on the far left. | |
| 3 | Baby don't herd me | 22 | 8 Bolts | Illona Pelser 2021 | Joins up with Like Lambs | |
| 4 | The sheep of things to come | 20 | 7 Bolts | Illona Pelser 2021 | Like Lambs wall | |
| 5 | Project | ? | ? Bolts | Steve Downing | ||
| 6 | The Trip | 25 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
| 7 | Cool Turkey | 23 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
| 8 | Free Basing | 20 | 8 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
| 9 | Mainline | 22 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
| 10 | Crackhead | 22 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
| 12 | Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds | 20 | 9 Bolts | Illona Pelser 2021 | ||
| 13 | Sugarman | 16 | 8 Bolts | Illona Pelser 2021 | ||
| 14 | Maredsous | 18 | ? Bolts | Marie-Ange Baudoin | Oros wall | |
| 15 | Oros (Greek God of Orange Juice) | 19 | 7 Bolts | O Keet 1996 | The climb on separate wall on the far right. | |
| 18 | Kool-Aid | 6 Bolts | Illona Pelser 2021 | Oros wall |
Matrix
This crag is less popular due to the long, unfrequented walk-in.
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Trust Me | 22 | 12 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | The route on the furthest left of the crag | |
| 2 | Ray Charles | 20 | 10 Bolts | Andy Davies 2004 | ||
| 3 | Stevie Wonder | 22 | 10 Bolts | Andy Davies 2004 | ||
| 4 | Red Pill Blue Pill | 23 | 11 Bolts | Malcolm Gowans 2002 | ||
| 5 | Suspended Animation | 24 | 8 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | ||
| 6 | Codger Reloaded | 24 | 10 Bolts | Andy Davies 2004 | ||
| 7 | Reality Check | 21 | 11 Bolts | LLoyd Turner 2002 | The route on the furthest right of the crag |
Bosch Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Bosch crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. A 60 meter rope is advisable.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 15 minutes
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade. 15 mins walk. Walk past Legoland and up the kloof. Bosch is the first crag on the right in the kloof.
Routes from Left to Right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Just Another Roof | 6b/20 | (7B,C) | *** | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 (bolted by P McCann) | |
| 2. | Never Say Goodbybe | 7b+/26 | (6B,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
| 3. | Latin Lessons | 6b+/21 | (10B,C) | ***** | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 (bolted by P McCann) | |
| 4. | Partners in Crime | 6c+/24 | (7B,C) | **** | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 (bolted by P McCann) | |
| 5. | Me or My Girl | 6b+/21 | (9B,C) | ***** | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 (bolted by P McCann) | |
| 6. | Master of Puppets | 6a+/19 | (10B,C) | **** | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 (bolted by P McCann) | |
| 7. | Beg, Borrow Or Steal Aka"Puppets On A Staaldraad" | 6b+/22 | (19B, C) | FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003 | 35m ! The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl". A 70 meter rope is advisable. You can get down on a 60 if the belayer moves up to the ledge on the right. | |
| 8. | Something Nowhere | 6b+/22 | (6B,C) | *** | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | |
| 9. | Sanatorium | 6a+/19 | (8B,C) | **** | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 (bolted by P McCann) | |
| 10. | Trille In Die Bos | 20/6a+ | (9B,C) | FA: A. Davies. Dec. 2003 | The route starts to the right of "Sanatorium", bouldery start, named after Rudolfs boys. | |
| 11. | Clashing Ego's | 20 | (N,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
| 12. | Nice Boys Don't Play Rock And Roll | 7a+/24 | (6B,C) | FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003 | The route furthest to the right. |
Hilti Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 25 minutes
Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch).
Routes from Left to Right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | The Fertilizer King | 21 | *** | Clive Curson | ||
| 2. | Rockerfella | 23 | **** | Adele and Patrick McCann 1992 | Technical face climbing | |
| 3. | Rastas | 21 | *** | John Alexander 1992 | ||
| 4. | Finger Fantasy | 24 | *** | John Alexander 1992 | ||
| 5. | Wonderlust | 26 | *** | Andrew and Glenda Lainis 1992 | Sustained climbing on crimps | |
| 6. | Drill Thrill | 25/26 | Jamie Smith 2008 |
Ramset Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Ramset crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. Great for early mornings & climbing till the sun comes over around noon. The easy double-pitch routes are excellent (comfortable) training ground for harder stuff. A 60 meter rope is advisable.
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun
Walk-in time: 20 minutes
The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.
Routes from Left to Right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Better Than Raw | 6b+/21 | (6B,C) | **** | FA: D Marshal 2003 | |
| 2. | Pink Bubbles Go Ape | 6c/22 | (10B,C) | **** | FA: D Marshal 2001 | |
| 3. | Masters of Rings | 6b+/21 | (14B,C) | ***** | FA: D Marshal 2001. 2008 Justin Lawson moved one of the top anchor rings to avoid rope twisting. | 60 meter rope needed & put knot in the end of the rope! |
| 4. | Time of Oath | 6b/20 | (10B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2001 | ||
| 5. | Keeper of the Seven Rings | 6a+/19 | (8B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2001 | ||
| 6. | Beating Around the Bush | P1: 16/5a ; P2 16/5a | (10B,C) ; (10B,C) | FA: S Brown 2003 | ||
| 7. | Shot Down in Flames | 5b/17 | (10B,C) | FA: S Brown 2003 | ||
| 8. | Return of the War Lord | 4b/13 | (9B,C) | FA: C Bester 2002 | ||
| 9. | Second Wind | P1:4c/12 ; P2: 15/5a | (9B,C); (10B,C) | FA: S Brown 2002 | ||
| 10. | Pass Wind | 5c/17 | (8B,C) | FA: S Brown 2002 | ||
| 11. | Forever and One | 6a/18 | (11B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
| 12. | Hannah's Wine Tour | 6a+/20 | (9B,C) | **** | FA: M Rehm 2002 | |
| 13. | Mad Dogs In A Meat Shop | 7a/24+ | (10B,C) | *** | FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003. | |
| 14. | Your Turn to Break Free | 6a/19 | (7B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
| 15. | Future World | 6a+/20 | (7B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
| 16. | Mission Motherland | 6b+/22 | (8B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. | |
| 17. | Steel Tormentor | 6a+/20 | (8B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. | |
| 18. | Kings will be Kings | 6a/19 | (9B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2003 | #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. |
Forest Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | HB Brett | 13 | 6 Bolts | Dave Glass 2000 | Route on the buttress to the left in front of forest crag | |
| 2 | With a herring | 16 | 6 Bolts | *** | Dave Glass 2000 | furthest left route at the top of the crag |
| 3 | Redwood | 18 | 8 Bolts | **** | Patrick McCann 1999 | Consistent climbing at grade on excellent rock |
| 4 | Bateleur | 21 | 9 Bolts | *** | Patrick McCann 1999 | Crimpy cruxy first half |
| 5 | Made Marian | 17 | 10 Bolts | *** | Brett Hochfeld 2000 | |
| 6 | Free Radical (FR) | 18 | 10 Bolts | *** | Patrick McCann 1999 | This Wiki shows the correct positions of FR and FG |
| 7 | Forest Gump (FG) | 19 | 9 Bolts | ** | Stuart Brown 2003 | Try to avoid heading off onto FR or R |
| 8 | Rapunzel (R) | 19 | 9 Bolts | *** | Adele McCann 1999 | First Route on right of forest crag |
Twin Fins
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | The Sisterhood | 25 | 10 Bolts | *** | Paul Schlotfeldt 2000 | |
| 2 | Far Far Away | 25 | 10 Bolts | *** | Paul Schlotfeldt 2000 | |
| 3 | Another Lonely Day | 25 | 10 Bolts | *** | Tinie Versveld 2000 |
Skull Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.
Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)
To get to Skull, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. The walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you And then you walk past twin fins on the right side of the kloof all the way to the top.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | L'Abraxas for Dummies | 22 | 10 Bolts | Pete Becker 2004 | The route on the furthest left top of the crag | |
| 2 | Comrade Turtlehead | 21 | 12 Bolts | Pete Becker 2004 | ||
| 3 | King Tut | 23 | 12 Bolts | **** | Mike Roberts 2000 | Very solid at the grade |
| 4 | Big Sky | 18 | 13 Bolts | **** | Patrick McCann 2000 | 28m of consistent edgy technical face climbing on good rock in a stunning setting |
| 5 | Feliz | 22 | 15 Bolts | Pete Becker 2004 | ||
| 6 | Old Style 21 | 21 | 15 Bolts | **** | Mike Roberts 2000 | |
| 7 | Screech of the Bald Eagle | 22 | 15 Bolts | **** | Mike Roberts 2000 | |
| 8 | Dem Bones | 22 | 18 Bolts | ***** | Patrick McCann 2000 | The first route on the far right of the crag |