Drakensberg

The Sentinel

Paradigm Shift, 6 pitches 20-22, North Face of the Sentinel

Gear: 2X50m ropes. 14 Quickdraws.

Getting there:

Approach Follow the path from the car park to just below the main face underneath the leftward facing corner system that is the North Face route. Leave the path at the cairns and follow the obvious rightward sloping grass slope that cuts through the rock bands until it is possible to walk to the clean faces just right of the corner system. Climb about 5 metres up the upmost grass ledge below a crack system just right of the flake. First bolt should be seen just right of flake.

Descent: Rappel the route using 2X50m ropes.

Pitch 1: Follow crack system to top of flake and break left and then up to belay station.

Pitch 2: From stance move up to small roof, pull through roof and delicately balance up to ledge. Continue up tending rightward to awkward layback and up to grassy ledge and stance.

Pitch 3: From stance move up and left to bolt next to loose flake, delicately stand on flake and mantle up to ledge and continue up off-width to a ledge below a roof. Move out left via an airy traverse and mantle up to grassy ledge and follow this rightward to the stance.

Pitch 4: Thin moves and layback take you to a ledge, move left to base of pillar and delicate balance your way up to the corner system and belay on top of pillar.

Pitch 5: From stance move left on thin holds until able to move up and follow thin corner to ledge. Traverse left below big roof, pull through on left side and continue up to grassy ledge and stance.

Pitch 6: Walk right and then traverse left until you can reach right facing corner and up to ledge, traverse left and then up and right to broken flake. Climb this until a rightward corner system is reached. Climb this to the top, breaking left about 5m before the top and going around big boulder on top. Bolts just over the lip. (Note: this pitch is a bit run out and can be supplemented by some medium cams. Due to the length of the pitch it generates rope drag so climbing on two rope is recommended. More bolts to be added in time.)

 SENTINEL

"BLOOD ON THE ROCKS" (F2/15 A2)

Route ascends the long flake that is flanked by patches of grass on either side. Access the highest grassy knoll on the west north west face of sentinel, where the 'thatcher route' begins. From this knoll, scramble down and to your left, to a broken corner/recess. Start from a point 4m right of this corner.

1.15m(F1/12) Start up a shallow groove with a good knife blade taking crack running through it, aiming for an underclinging crack above you. Pull through this and step into the grassy corner on your left. Ascend to some loose blocks and out left onto the face which takes you to a grassy ledge above, and belay here.

2.35m?(F2/15 A2) Move about 5m right from stance along easy ledge then up diagonally right through small cubbyhole to gain the black corner system with roofs above you(F2/15). from here aid up on pretty solid placements, with occasional peg, following the crack system to the left going underneath the small roofs. Once through the roofs follow crack straight up and climb through a recess to a small ledge on left side of large flake. From here, step down to awesome foot holds and traverse right to other side of flake and an excellent belay stance from the block above you- piton in crack on left.

3.40m(F2/14 A1) Ascend this right hand side of flake with a few aided moves around the grassy sections. Once on top of the flake, go straight up passing a small overhanging block. From top of block, step left and climb around corner (7m). Around the corner set up a semi-hanging belay from the cracks around you. A piton will be seen hanging out of the crack above you- dont use it!

4.27m(F2/14 A1) Climb the corner above, past some loose flakes under the roof above. Get under this roof and aid out to your left, aiding up the recess just past the roof as you go. Gain the small cubbyhole, and then climb up to the smaller one above. There is a scarcity of protection here. From cubbyhole walk to your right, and belay under some overhangs with a good crack in it.

5.30m Step down to the grassy ledge and scramble along it till you get to a blackened corner/recess, and set up a belay here. This is now the start of the fourth pitch of "thatchers route". Follow this pitch and the fifth to gain the big grass ledge and follow standard route to top.

Comments: We strongly believe more direct lines could go to the left of the cubbyholes on pitch 4, and from the belay at the end of pitch four. Also believe that this route could be freed( probably relatively easily!)

Robert Dugtig and Justin Nixon(09/07/2006)

An unfinished route to the left of Sentinel cave, and two minutes off the path! Route tops out on a ledge halfway up the buttress, until someone can finish it to the top, it’s just an alternate route to the top of the escarpment, albeit much more fun than the chain ladder or the gully!

First pitch goes at an easy c grade scramble, but enjoyable. Rest of the climb essentially goes straight up the buttress, starting in a shallow recess off the grass ledge after the first pitch. Go up, coming to a loose block which you stand on to gain height, go slightly right and belay underneath a corner crack.

Go up the crack, into a recess which you exit to the right on these funny scoops that serve as holds(friction), and up to underneath the orange overhangs above. From here you scoot out onto a dogdy flake/plate on your left and go around the corner to belay underneath the last pitch.

The last pitch goes up a broken recess, which is clearly obvious as the easiest way up.

A simple walk rightwards along the grass ledge and up the gully at the back will bring you to the top of the escarpment. Climbing doesn’t exceed F2, and some knifeblade pitons are usefull.

R. Dugtig and J. Nixon (April 2010)