Du Toits Kloof
 | |
|
|
|
| Du Toits Kloof | |
|
|
|
| Latitude | -33.723769 |
|---|---|
| Longitude | 19.151545 |
| Climbing Type | Multi-Pitch Trad |
| Rock Type | Sandstone |
| Season | When it hasn't rained and isn't going to rain. |
| Province | Western Cape |
| Area | Du Toits Kloof |
|
|
|
This impressive valley with it's huge sandstone walls contains some great country routes. The only drawback to this area is that in most cases you have to do a long slog up the mountain side to get to the rock. But do not let this fact stop you from exploring this vast and beautiful area. It offers some of the most challenging traditional climbing in South Africa and still has more first ascents waiting for the intrepid climber.
multi-pitch traditional climbing on the 'Du Toits Peak Massif' with +/-38 Routes, the 'Haelhoek Sneeukop Massiff' with +/-17 Routes and the 'Witteberg' which has +/-15 Routes.
2-4 hours depending on where you are going.
Gear
Full rack of friends and nuts, long slings useful to avoid rope drag. Rope: 50m /60m - double ropes are recommended. A helmet is also a MUST.
The climbing
It's country climbing, the less popular routes often have vegetation and other 'stuff' growing, lurking on them. The rock is generally good, although you may come across small patches of not so nice sections.
The climbing in Yellowwood amphitheatre is particularly good Bouldering can be found on the Worcestor side of the tunnel at the end of the pass (just before things get flat - look right to see a large boulder field.
How to get there
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, drive past Paarl and you will get within a kilometre of the mountains. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R18) or driving over the pass which is very scenic. Once on the other side of the mountain, you will come to the Du Toits Kloof Hotel. To get to the MCSA hut: Turn around so you are driving back towards Cape Town and take the road as for the pass, just after you take the turn off is a road leading to the MCSA hut.
Fees & Permits
Accommodation & Food
There is the Du Toits Kloof Hotel and the MCSA hut. There have been reports of car break-ins at the MCSA hut, so dont leave anything inside your car
Attractions & Activities
Map
Notes
The climbing is situated on Cape Nature Conservation (CNC) land and permits can be obtained prior to going. You MUST obtain a Cape Nature Conservation permit to climb at this area. Contact the CNC (www.capenature.org.za)or MCSA for details. E-mail: mcsacapetown@iafrica.com Tel: (27-21) - 465 3412 (10:00-14:00)
Route Info Slanghoek Peak A Private Universe 22,A1 (*****) D Davies, H Davies, M Lloyd-Sim, 2002
Slanghoek Needle North Ridge of Slanghoek Needle, 18 (***), D Davies and H Davies, 1998
INTRODUCTION TO THE GUIDE BELOW
This guide contains detailed descriptions for a selection of routes in the journals of the Mountin club of south afria up to 1983. This personal selection has been made on the basis of a routes popularity, the fact that it is regarded as a mojor route is merely because it is enjoyable. A complete list of the climbs follows this introduction.
Grading
The grade of each route is shown at the top of each description and indicates the overall severity of the climb. It is not an indication of the difficulty of the hardest move on the route. Free pitches are graded from "c" to "h" with the grades "e" to "h" being expanded by numerals 1 to 3. The letter "m" is used to indicate a mechanical (artificial) pitch supplemented by the numerals 0 to 3.
Star Grading
In addition to giving each route an overall grading, to indicate its seriousness, a system of star grading has been included. The star grading is a critical rating of the merit of the climb and its overall enjoyment.
- (*) a climb of little merit
- (**) a reasonable route
- (***) a good route, worthwhile repeating
- (****) an excellent route
- (*****) an outstanding experience on rock
Starts
Each description contains details of the approach to the route and the main features mentioned are indicated on the map.
Descent
Not every route contains details on how to get off the mountain and it may be necessary to refer to the other descriptions in the area for this information
Access
Climbers are dependent on the goodwill of private landowners and the Department of Forestry for access to all the routes in the guide. Their permission must be obtained in advance for the privilege of access. In addition there are certain rules of general behaviour that climbers are expected to adhere to ,viz:
- 1. Apply for access during office hours, not very early or late in the day. Arrive at a reasonable time, do not disturb resident landowners; if required introduce yourself and park in an agreed place.
- 2. close gates, respect fences, animals, ploughed lands and orchards.
- 3. Do not damage the ecology in any way, make fires or pullet drinking water.
- 4. Remove all your liter
Main access contacts for this year are as follows. Where Forestry permission is required, contact the Hawequas State Forest Office.
The MCSA owns the property in the Du Toits Kloof and Agtertafelberg area for the huts but this gives members rights of access only to the huts. Additionally the MCSA owns a share of the land which includes parts of the Slanghoek, Witteberg and the other peaks but members are still expected to observe the courtesy of to advising the Department of forestry and other landowners that they are in the area.
List of routes
The following is a (hopefully) complete list of all known climbing routes in the Du Toits Kloof area, together with a reference to the year in which the climb id described in the Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa. The routes marked with an asterisk appear in this guide book.
Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - Donkerkloof and Haelhoek
- 1. Spire Aloe Ridge 1965
- 2. Bella Donna F2 ** 1959
- 3. Blockbuster G1 * 1966
- 4. Central Diedre G1/M1**** 1969
- 5. Flight of the Bats 1977
- 6. Haelhoek Spire Frontal (Williams) F2 ** 1965
- 7. Haelhoek Spire (Schaff) 1947
- 8. New Dimensions -
Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - National Road Routes
- 1. Bella Vista F2 * 1958
- 2. Gully Route 1946
- 3. Huguenot Butress (Berrisford) 1946
- 4. Huguenot Buttress Frontal 1947
- 5. Left Central Butress 1946
- 6. Left Wing F2 ** 1973
- 7. Mia's Poort 1946
- 8. Right Central Buttress 1946
Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - Du Toits Kloof Pass (Crest)
- 1. The toothbrush 1972
Witteberg
- 1. Berrisfors Route 1935
- 2. Camerons Route E2 *** 1959
- 3. Cascades C *** 1952
- 4. Exposure in the 'F' Major - Witteberg ***** Grade 17/F3 K fletcher, H Graffland, H Snyders and G Ward 1963
- 5. Firecracker F3/M2 * 1974 or free at grade 23
- 6. Freddie 1962
- 7. Grufts route 1959
- 8. Howes Howell's Route 1935
- 9. Madonna 1959
- 10. Nieboch -
- 11. Pins and Needles F2 ** 1968
- 12. Pisa Wall - Witteberg **** Grade 16/F2 H Graafland and H Snijders 1960
- 13. Thunderbolt **** G1 H Graafland and M Scott 1967
- 14. Thunderbolt Direct - Witteberg ***** A1 G1/M2 A Dick and R Fuggle 1970
- 15. Too Late to be Cautious 1959
Molenaarsberg
- 1. Berrisfords Easy Routes 1932
- 2. Cleft Buttress 1950
- 3. Evans route E1 ** 1963
- 4. Fortress E3 * 1959
- 5. Honey and Hartleys Ridge F2 ** 1966
- 6. Keens Ridge F2 *** 1948
- 7. Left Turret on the fortess 1982
- 8. Millstone wall F3 *** 1960
- 9. Phalanx F1 ** 1964
- 10. Pinnacles Travers D ** 1930
- 11. Watson's South West Route C/D * 1950
Slanghoek Peak
- 1. Amphitheatre Buttress F1 *** 1961
- 2. Amphitheathre Buttress Direct 1966
- 3. Edge 1967
- 4. Frontal 1932
- 5. Klettershue and Abseil 1963
- 6. Slanghoek Needle Nek F1 * 1932
- 7. Yellow Amphitheathre F3 1978
- 8. A Private Universe 550m 22,A1 ***** David Davies, Hilton Davies, Matt Lloyd-Sim, 2002
Slanghoek Needle
- 1. Lotz's Route from Du Toits 1959
- 2. North Ridge of Slanghoek Needle *** 18, 300m Hilton Davies, David Davies 29 March 1998
Slanghoek Pile
- 1. Frontal 1938
Slanghoek Ridge Peak
- 1. Cattells Frontal 1937
- 2. Snijders Frontal 1961
Du Toits Peak Massif - De La Bat Ridge
- 1. Bat Gully 1962
- 2. Black Waterflal Face F2 ** 1965
- 3. Dalibor 1969
- 4. De La Bat Ravine 1962
- 5. De La Bat Ridge 1962
- 6. Dr Falke 1969
- 7. Fledermaus - De La Bat Ridge ***** Grade 10/E2 (C Inglis, B Quail and P White 1958)
- 8. Left Wing 1962
- 9. Mephistopheles 1962
- 10. Pipstrello 1967
- 11. Red Faced Waterfall F2 **** 1981
- 12. Red Ravine 1962
- 13. Red Ridge 1962
- 14. Right Wing 1962
- 15. Rigioletto F1 *** 1962
- 16. Blood is sweeter than Honey
- 17. New Born
- 18. Prime Time
- 19. Time Warp G1/M1 *** 1977
- 20. Second Coming/Fighting the dark side of gravity
- 21. Armageddon Time]]
- 17. Smalblaar Ridge F2 *** 1953
- 18. Yellowwood Crack 1962
- 19. Yellowwood Ravine 1962
Du Toits Peak Massif - Chess Pieces
- 1. No More Bells
- 2. Castle F1 **** 1966
- 3. Knight F1 ** 1967
- 4. Rooks Pawn F2 *** 1967
Du Toits Peak Massif - Du Toits Peak
- 4. Chilonga G3 ** 1983
- 5. Currys Frontal D ** 1948
- 6. Jabberwock Ridge 1954
- 7. Left Buttress F2 ** 1974
- 8. North West Face G1 ***** 1950
- 9. North By North West G2/M1 ***** 1971
- 10. North by North West Direct H1 ** 1983
- 11. Renaissance G2/M3 ***** 1977
- 12. Recess Route 1966
Du Toits Peak Massif - Agtertafelberg Area
- 1. Column F2 ** 1967
- 2. Minaret 1972
- 3. Pink Panther F2 ** 1967
- 4. Sabre E1 ** 1965
- 5. Scoop F2 ** 1971
- 6. Turret Traverse 1974
- 7. Vibramatic 1967
Deception Peak
- 1. Ambidexter 1972
- 2. Berrisfords Route 1948
- 3. Deception Direct F1 ** 1972
- 4. Fang Route (Buckland) 1949
- 5. Fang Route (Fletcher) 1961
- 6. Goerge Londts Route 1930
- 7. More Deception D 1975
- 8. Mortons Route 1931