- 1 Africa Edge 21
- 2 Magnetic Wall 23
- 3 Magnetic Wall Direct 23
- 4 Cloud Surfing (24?)
- 5 Lluvia Rosada (26+?)
- 6 Armadura (25/26)
- 7 TATWOC 25
- 8 Arms Race Direct 25
- 9 Space Race 22 A3
- 10 La Vida 21
- 11 Last Cruise (21)
- 12 Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+
- 13 Roulette Arête 25, A2
- 14 The Squid and the Whale (31) (original line) *****
- 15 The Squid and the Whale (31) (direct)
- 16 The King Slayer (26/27?)
- 17 Triple Jeopardy (30/31) *****
- 18 The Last of the Mohawks (31/32) *****
- 19 Russian Roulette 31(?) R *****
- 20 Fountain Roof Traverse (24/25)
- 21 Cats 25 *****
- 22 Phantom Squeeze 25 R/X
- 23 Fountain Fandango 21
- 24 Fountain Reach-Up 21
- 25 Lower Fountain Ledge
Africa Edge 21
Start: Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.
Pitch 1 12m 16
Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22
Ahead is the next buttress.
Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.
Pitches 3 to 5
Pitch 3 20m 21:
Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.
Pitch 4 15m 20
Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.
Pitch 5 20m 22
Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.
First ascent: January 2009
Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick. Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein
Magnetic Wall 23
A great old aid route turned into a modern hard route on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain.
Start:To get to the start of the route leave the Fountain Ledge path about 100m along from the corner beneath the cable car lines. Scramble 40m leftwards up the slope to the highest point of scrambling. On the highest ledge walk a few metres out to the right to the corner. The route starts here up a clean white face.
Pitch 1 25m 23:
Climb a slight crack in the white face and continue up to a small overhang. Move to the right and go up to the bolted abseil stance. This is a very good technical pitch.
Pitch 2 20m 22:
A chimney-like crack on the left is climbed to an overhang. Follow a crack to the left and upwards around the block above. Climb the white front of the block.
Pitch 3 10m 10:
Walk clockwise around a big block and ascend a chimney to a stance on the right.
Pitch 4 37m 19:
Climb up 2m and traverse to the right to a corner. Continue to the right for a metre or two then climb to the top.
First Ascent info:
First Ascent Don Hartley, Mike Scott, Jonathan Levy and Tim Hughes on 17 January 1971 First Free Ascent Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones on 28 September 2014
Magnetic Wall Direct 23
Pitch 2 20m 22:
From the bolted stance at the top of the first pitch go up bypassing the first roof on the right. Climb up to a chamber beneath a 45 degree outwards sloping roof. Do an insane manoeuvre to get fingertips onto a juglet over the lip. Cut loose over the void and pull up onto the face. Continue up to the platform stance for the last pitch..
Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones on 12 October 2014
Cloud Surfing in yellow, Lluvia Rosada in red, Armadura in white (dashed is the face that is not in view from this angle).
Nearby routes are shown - Black dashes: Touch and Go, blue: TATWOC, green: Farewell to Arms, purple: Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dumb, black: Arms Race.
Cloud Surfing (24?)
A sustained route with a bit of spice. The second pitch is great with a wild finish!
Start by the tree at the right end of the little ledge as for the direct start to Touch and Go.
Pitch 1 (23/24) 20m
Start up the crack system until the large projecting disc-shaped flake ~5m up. Traverse right ~3m to a good flat jug below a large undercling feature. Pull through the steep bulge here, and up the face above to a vague rail (tricky, but essential gear). Continue up and right (sparse pro) on edges to better holds. Carry on up to a narrow ledge. Walk ~3m right and up to a stance on a neat ledge, directly below the thin crack line (of Farewell to Arms) higher up on the wall above.
Pitch 2 (22/23) 25m
Scramble up to the face, which is climbed directly (one good small wire) to the base of the thin Farewell to Arms crack. Follow the crack, but where Farewell to Arms traverses right under the roof, pull through to the wide, jagged crack above. Follow this to the higher roof and traverse ~1m left. Blast straight through the last roof where there is an intermittent finger rail (below and right of Touch and Go). Crank though to the face above, step right and then up to the right side of the Touch and Go stance.
Pitch 3 (24?) 20m
Head up and right to the break on the right side of the first narrow roof above the stance (shared with Farewell to Arms). Pull through and climb up. At the next narrow roof to the left take a step down and left to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left ~4m to where the rail widens, and there is a large rock wedged flush with the back of the rail. At this point the rock above the roof is mottled grey, and a bit left of the smoother, yellow/brown rock on the right. Pull through the roof here to a thin rail with key slots for micro cams. Make a hard move up and left to establish on the face which is followed up and slightly left (sparse pro) to reach good holds. Continue straight up the blocky bulges above to the wide ledge.
Note: Other than the sections shared with Farewell to Arms, some sections of these pitches may well have been done before, but all the crux sections are new to the best of our knowledge. The result is a bit of hybrid route that offers a fairly demanding line up the wall. Consensus grading needed. Pitch 3 may be harder for shorter folks.
FA R. Halsey and M. Penso (Apr 2018)
Lluvia Rosada (26+?)
A direct line, with some steep and exposed sections. The crux requires wide stemming, faith in rubber, finger tendons and a modicum of commitment. The long 23 pitch is excellent and could form a link-up with the overhanging crack on Arms Race for a straight, consistent voyage up the wall.
Start as for Arms Race.
Pitch 1 (18) 15m
At the right end of the ledge, head up the bulging base of the crack, but then move right for ~2m and easily up to a short, wide crack (just right of the usual approach pitch for Arms Race). Stance below and right of a smooth, bottomless corner (which just below and left of the Arms Race overhanging crack.
Pitch 2 (26+?) 15m Looks improbable and is pretty desperate. Climb up into the short, undercut corner capped by a roof. A very thin rail (which takes narrow micro cams and small offset wires) heads out left under the roof. Traverse left under the roof (crux) until able to pull onto the face. Continue straight up on layaways edges (there is one slot for a bomber small wire) followed by lovely, but slightly run out, face climbing to the ledge. Move up and slightly right to stance at the small platform at the base of the Farewell to Arms recess. Consensus grading needed - might be a grade or two harder. Would be an impressive onsight.
Pitch 3 (23) 30m
Start up the recess and after a few meters move onto the right wall at good series of finger rails. About 1m before the rails head around onto the nose (as for Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dum, is a steep layback crack. Follow this via some powerful moves and then slightly left up the steep, exposed prow to a wide break. Continue up and slightly right to the narrow roof at a point below the seam above (this seam eventually joins the top section of Touch and Go final pitch). Pull through the roof (good gear at the lip) and take the seam up to a cubby hole at the base of the knobbly groove.
Pitch 4 (17) 15m
Step left onto the face and climb in the centre of it until a finger about half way up (where the holds above become very smooth and rounded). Traverse slightly left until left hand can use the side of the narrow chimney to the left. Head up, step back right onto the face and up to a small ledge. Then straight to the top between some boulders to stance under the left end of the overhang above.
Note: For the crux pitch you only need micro/small cams and small wires. You will not need anything bigger than a red alien/#4 Wallnut even for the stance.
FA R. Halsey and S. Cunnane (Apr 2018)
A short, fiery crux leads to easier climbing in an exposed position.
Start on the platform below the nose that forms Arms Race pitch 2. Approach from the Dream Ledge via first pitch of Cableway Crag or Farewell to Arms.
Pitch 1 (25/26?) 15m
Scramble up onto the large block at the base of the large wide corner, the left side of which is opposite side of the nose that Arms Race pitch 2 uses. From standing on the block, there are a series of underclings, the highest ones take microcams. Pull onto the face and move up and slightly left via a series of technical and tenuous moves to gain good holds ~1m below the roof. Traverse ~1.5m left to a little platform past the left end of the roof above. Follow the featured face above for ~5m then tend right to a little stance is above the starting block, and ~5m directly below the break in the roof above (followed by Arms Race pitch 3). Consensus grading needed.
Pitch 2 (20?) 35m
Climb up the large features and slightly right to the wide crack through the roof. Follow this as for Arms Race and at the first rail, traverse ~2.5m left and head up to the white face to an alcove below the knobbly, vegetated groove (stance on Lluvia Rosada). Step right and follow the face just to the right of the groove, and through a steep blocky section to finish on the wide ledge below the overhang.
FA R. Halsey and T. Iliev (Apr 2018)
Start: The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.
Pitch 1 20m 23:
Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.
Pitch 2 20m 23:
Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
Pitch 3 25m 21:
Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.
Pitch 4 25m 25:
Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)
Descent: The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.
First ascent: 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!
First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008
Arms Race Direct 25
Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.
Pitch 1 20m 25:
Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.
Pitches 2 and 3:
Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.
Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010
Space Race 22 A3
The route is in The Dream sector on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain. Space Race is very direct and goes through one of the biggest flat roofs on the mountain. The first pitch starts between Farewell to Arms and Last Tango.
Pitch 1 30m 22 A3:
On The Dream Ledge between Farewell to Arms and Last Tango is a steep white wall capped by a huge roof. Start up the wall left of centre, a few metres from the thin crack of Farewell to Arms. Head directly up to the huge rail then traverse right to get to the thin seam that intermittently heads out to the lip of the roof. Using tiny cams, RPs and knifeblades climb the 10m roof and turn the lip. Freestyle a couple of metres to a good stance under overhangs. A nice free variation involves railing rightwards under the huge roof and then coming back left above the roof to the stance.
Pitch 2 30m 22:
Head up on the left and turn the overhangs. Head straight up the centre of the clean white wall between Last Tango on the left and The Cruise which heads up the leaning break on the right. Arrive at a big ledge and do a tricky mantelshelf.
Pitch 3 12m 21R:
After a bit of easy ground there is a blank slab above. A ripple runs up the slab leaning to the left. Climb this ripple without protection. At the rail head left and up the overhanging pillar The slab is quite a serious lead.
Pitch 4 20m 21:
Above is a wide roof with one obvious break some metres to the left. Don’t go there. Go slightly right and in the roof find a small pocket that allows you to lean out to the lip. Crank up onto the face and go to the arête on the right. Head straight up.
First Ascent Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones on 18 August 2012
La Vida 21
Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.
Pitch 1 12m 18:
Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.
Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.
Pitch 2 17m 21:
Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.
Pitch 3 10m 19:
From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.
Pitch 4 8m 18:
Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.
Pitch 5 30m 20:
Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.
Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.
First ascent: Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009
Last Cruise (21)
A nice link up, that potentially has some new climbing.
P1: 21 Start up Last Tango but keep straight to join REM. Pull into the step, bottomless corner and up to the highest overlap and rail 1m right to a stance on a narrow ledge (Essentially the Wet Dreams pitch 2)
P2: 21 Step left from the stance and through the break (shared with REM) but then head left and up to a rail. Traverse further left and then up to the next rail. Continue a little further left climb up a vague seam arcing to the left (and below the left end of the narrow roof a few meters higher). Climb up passing the roof on its left side to join The Cruise and follow this to the top.
FA (?): R. Halsey & J. Wakeling (Oct 2018)
Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+
Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.
Pitch 1 12m 19:
Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right
Pitch 2 17m 21:
Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.
Pitch 3 10m 21:
Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".
Pitch 4 30m 22 or 22+:
Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".
Or climb straight through the roof on REM and higher up pull through the overlap 2m left of the crux of the dream.
Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:
Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.
Pitch 6 20m 18:
Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.
First ascent: Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010
Roulette Arête 25, A2
Start: At the extreme left end of Upper Fountain Ledge where one goes around the bulge to get to the start of Jacob's Ladder.
Pitch 1 20m 25:
Climb the middle of the Roulette wall heading directly up and into the overhanging peapod. On the first rail head out left then up to the Roulette platform to stance.
Pitch 2 10m A2:
Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.
Pitch 3 35m 19:
Head directly up. The route follows the proudest bulge on chicken heads and edges. Place gear when available. Not much to be had.
First ascent: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012
The Squid and the Whale (31) (original line) *****
One of the harder routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.
Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5 meters to the right of the arête between Jeopardy and Jacobs ladder.
Pitch 1 40m (31):
Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the Roulette rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the Roulette ledge, rail right 2 meters and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings. Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of Jeopardy to 2 more pegs and the Hook rail (the end of Jeopardy). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.
Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.
First ascent: J. Smith Feb 2013
The Squid and the Whale (31) (direct)
Climb the Squid and the Whale to the Roulette ledge. From here, rail right for a meter, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the hook rail.
First ascent: J. Smith Dec 2013
The King Slayer (26/27?)
As in Jamie the King Slayer, a television character. Committing but really fun moves up an amazing feature.
Start: as for The Squid and the Whale.
Pitch 1 25m? (26/27?):
Scramble up easy climbing to a ledge. Do a couple of moves of The Squid to the first rail which establishes you under the main arête of the Jeopardy wall. Place bomber gear then do a few boulder moves up the arête to the Roulette ledge. Tend slightly right of the arête for the last couple of moves. Might be harder and a little scary to onsight. To get off the ledge, climb up another route or join Jacobs Ladder and carefully scramble down (16ish).
First ascent: J. Smith Nov 2013
Triple Jeopardy (30/31) *****
Start: as for Roulette arete.
Pitch 1 40m? (31):
The obvious line straight up the centre of the Jeopardy wall. This route is a link up of the first pitch of Roulette Arête, the crux of The Squid and the Whale and the second half of Double Jeopardy. Follow the crack up the centre of the lower wall until it ends at the highest rail. Summon a modicum of strength to pull over the lip and establish on two underclings. Clip the peg to your right and continue straight up the wall till you bang your head on the roof at the top. Turn left and head for the sunset. Probably the easiest of the 31s on this wall.
First ascent: J. Smith Nov 2013
The Last of the Mohawks (31/32) *****
Start: As for The Squid and the Whale
Pitch 1 40m (31/32):
Scramble up to the ledge just left of the large blocks. Climb up the center of the overhanging face tending rightwards past the 2nd peg of Jeopardy and up to the Roulette rail. Pull through the Roulette rail crux and straight through the next roof to establish on the headwall. Climb straight up to the Hook rail. Pull through the small roof about a meter left of the Captain Hook corner and climb diagonally on underclings to join Double Jeopardy. Rail left as for Double Jeopardy to finish on the headwall.
First ascent: J. Smith April 2013
Russian Roulette 31(?) R *****
Start: On Fountain Ledge, Left of Roulette.
Pitch 1 40m (31?):
Climb the face just to the left of roulette and move up the centre of the large shield to the roulette rail on good gear. From a large flake in a cubbyhole, place some gear that will probably hold a fall and move up and slightly left for about 6 meters to the slopers on top of a block. A very small cam can be used to protect this stretch but it is difficult to place and probably best ignored. Place a solid nest of small cams around the block and blast up some very airy moves to the hook rail. Rail left and pull through the hook lip and climb diagonally left to join Triple Jeopardy.
First ascent: J. Smith Feb 2014
Fountain Roof Traverse (24/25)
Take the first 4 pitches of Roulette until the roof. Pull onto the face and traverse right on the lip of the roof until the overhang below your feet ends, and then straight up the wall above (to the left of the top pitch of Myrrh).
FA: Matt Bush
Cats 25 *****
Start: This climb is on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain. The most notable nearby feature is the enormous roof of Elevator about 20m up. Directly below the enormous roof is a big free-standing pillar. Scramble up behind the big pillar for 8m and then walk 10m along a ledge to the left to just beyond the Elevator roof.
Pitch 1 16m 24:
At the point where the ledge does a sharp right turn, the ledge becomes flat and broad, and there is a smaller ledge a metre higher. Step up onto the higher ledge and climb the shallow recess to the roof. Micro nuts are essential gear. Climb through the stepped-out roof using the big pockets to reach a rail. Rail out to the left over the overhang without feet. Continue around the corner and mantelshelf a small platform. Climb the corner for 3m to make a semi-hanging stance.
Pitch 2 30m 25:
Continue up the corner system for a couple of metres then move out to the right for a couple of metres. Continue straight up the series of horizontal bands and rails to reach the Staircase Traverse below a small corner/flake feature a metre or two above. Climb this feature and continue up and right on the smooth white wall above. Then head up leftwards to the roof. Climb through the roof and continue up to a small ledge. Continue up to a big ledge to stance. Scramble left for 15m to the huge flat boulder with a fixed abseil, else climb easily to the top.
First ascent info:
First Ascent: Ines Papert, Luka Lindic and Hilton Davies 18 June 2017 First Ascent of Cool Cat (first pitch of Cats): Hilton Davies 1979 First Ascent of Scaredy Cat (top half of second pitch of Cats): Andy de Klerk 1984
Phantom Squeeze 25 R/X
A direct, sustained and rather committing route.
Start in the middle of the blank face between the start of Boltergeist and the arete of Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh
Pitch 1 23R/X 15m:
Use a rail at belly height to access the face. Now you head straight up for 15m on small flakes and edges. Your first good piece is about ten metres up, so bring a helmet. Stance on a good ledge directly below a steep dihedral, which is on the same level as the Finale traverse.
Pitch 2 25 20m
Head for the overhanging dihedral feature. Climb through this to gain the Boltergeist traverse rail. Step 2m right and pull through the far right hand side of the roof on small edges, and tend left to establish on the face. Now head leftwards under the next roof and break through using a large undercling on its left hand side. Continue to the Staircase Ledge.
Pitch 3 24R 20m
To the right of the abseil anchors is a detached block/flake from which climbers used to abseil. Climb to the top of the block/flake and continue straight up the clean white face on small holds. This pitch is situated between the last pitches of Boltergeist and Staircase. Apart from sharing the block at the start with Escalator, it is an independent pitch.
FA Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey Jan 2013
Fountain Fandango 21
Start: The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.
Pitch 1 15m 18:
From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.
Pitch 2 35m 21:
Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.
Pitch 3 35m 16:
Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.
First ascent: Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009
Fountain Reach-Up 21
The route is an old aid route done by Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers in 1970 which has not been freed up until now.
The route has three pitches which go at 15, 21 and 10.
The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof one can make a stance and then continue up easily.
First ascent: Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers
First free Ascent: Brandon Smith and Catherine Philips
Lower Fountain Ledge
Two short routes on the wall below the right side of Fountain Ledge.
Access from India Venster path: walking up the mountain, just were the rock scramble goes up to below landing area for Abseil Africa, turn right through the bushes and along the base of the wall for a while till the first clean section.
Left to right in picture
FA: R. Halsey and F. Walters Oct 2018
Hyrax the Brave (19)
FA: R. Halsey and F. Walters Oct 2018