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Climbing TypeSingle Pitch Trad
Rock TypeSandstone
SeasonAll year round
ProvinceWestern Cape

How to get there

From Hermanus town centre take the road to Stanford. After the last roundabout in Hermanus, you pass the Spar on your left and then a 7/11 shop. Take a left turn into 7th Avenue and park at the end of the road.

APPROACH: From the car park you walk up rightwards towards a water pump station. Here you veer leftwards for about 100m's to join the contour path. Take the higher split at the fork. Walk on for about l0 minutes until you see the obvious steep crag on your left, about 200m above the path.

Fees & Permits


Accommodation & Food

Hermanus has shops, etc

Attractions & Activities

Many, this is a popular tourist town! Great for whale watching, visit the information bureau.


See Below

CRYSTAL DREAM PALACE - Fernkloof, Hermanus. By Joe Möhle

1 John's Route 19 ** Start on the ramp below the left hand ar6te of the Main Wall. Climb the arête, exiting on the left higher up to finish on great jugs. FA: Richard Halsey 2O12.

2 Bionic Psyche 23 *** Start just to the left and one step down from Rising Force, about 5m inside of John's Route. Climb to an obvious horizontal rail/letterbox about 80cm long. Do a few powerful moves to gain bigger holds, and continue to the top just inside of the arête. FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Möhle 2O12.

3 Fire The Priest 25 **** Start on the same thin crack as Rising Force. At the jugs about 3m up, head straight on to the obvious hole in the wall. From here you step right, avoiding the line of Bionic Psyche. FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Möhle 2O12.

4 Rising Force 27 **** Start on the thin crack below the most obvious crack in the centre of the Main Wall. Use fingerlocks to start and step right to gain the base of the main crack and climb this feature to the top. FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999.

5 All The Small Things 27 *** Start about 3m inside of the right hand arête. Use slopers and crimps to gain the second crack on the wall (this one starts about 5m off the ground). Climb the crack to the top. The gear is marginal on this one, and it has yet to be repeated. FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999

6 Be Quick Or Be Dead 31 ***** A five star power-endurance test piece! Climb the blunt arête on the right of the Main Wall. As of May 2012 the route has had only two ascents, both on pre-placed gear. FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999.

7 Project

8 Awkward Religion 17 ** Start on the fins and ramps just right of the Main Wall and head for the roof split by an obvious crack. Pull through the roof and onto the face above (with your back to the Main Wall) and tend rightwards to the arête. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2O12.

9 God Of All Things 16 *** 'r' Climb the left hand ar6te of the Middle Pillar until you run out of holds. Then step right onto the face of the pillar and continue to the top. FA: Joe Möhle 2O12.

10 Wings Of Steel 24 *** Start just inside of the right hand ar6te of the Middle Pillar. Climb up to a break and step right onto the ar6te. Pull through the small roof and then step left onto the face. Continue to the top. FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999.

11 Country Dream 13 ** Climb the crack and blocks to the small overhanging chimney/off width. Pull through the crack and continue to the top. FA: Joe Möhle and Jamie Smith 2012.

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Photo above by Jimbo Smith