Higgovale Quarry

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A man-made quarry that was used as a shooting range and now by climbers. A good place for beginners to learn the ropes, mostly easy routes, but it also has some harder ones. 2 min walk to crag. Granite. 50m rope fine.

The Climbing

Located in a suburb below Table Mountain, this quarry was once a shooting range. The routes are all slab/face climbs and are all bolted. It is possible to walk round to the top and put top ropes on most of the routes. About 15 routes. Grades vary from 9/4a - 29/7c+.

Getting there

From Cape Town, drive up Long Street into Kloof Street and up towards Table Mountain. Turn left into Camp Street, then three blocks further turn right into Molteno Rd. Drive past the Molteno Reservoir, all the way up and the turn right at the top into Glencoe Rd. Park at the Cul de Sac.... walk-in is 22 seconds from there.

Alternatively: if you’re heading up Kloofnek Road, find your way to Kloof Road (parallel to Kloofnek Road). Turn down into Camp Street and right again into Molteno Road. Follow it up the hill and near the top turn right into Glencoe Crescent. Go all the way to the end and park on the side of the road in front of the boom. Follow the obvious path into the quarry through the bricked-up entrance gate.

Many thanks to Niel Mostert for taking photos and compiling the names and grades.

The Cinema

Sweet & Short.jpg
Sweet & Short 9 [1B/R] S. Kets 2001

Higgovale quarry 01.jpg

Many of these routes have hangers missing, but topropes could possibly be rigged with some creative effort. Routes 4,5 and 8 are quite good.

1. K2 10 [3B] S. Kets 2001
2. Vertical Limit 15 [2B] S. Kets 2001
3. Cliffhanger 16 [3B] S. Kets 2001
4. Frustration 19 [3B] S. Kets 2001
5. Alive 18 [3B] S. Kets 2001
6. Barely Alive 13 [3B] S. Kets 2001
7. Jagged Edge 12 [3B] S. Kets 2001
8. Himalaya 14 [3B] S. Kets 2001

The Peanut Gallery

Higgovale quarry 02.JPG

1. Fingertip Fallacy 14 [3B] S. Kets 2001
2. Everyman's Fantasy 14 [3B] S. Kets 2001
3. Eugenius 19 [4B] BB S. Kets/FA G.Irwin? 2001
4. Torn Finger 18 [5B] A. Hartung & S. Kets 2000
A Abe's Odyssey 29 [5B] BB S. Kets, T. Vermaak, N. Mostert; FA N. Mostert 2017 NOTE: No lower-offs, rotten rock, top-out
5. Digital Crack 15 [3B] S. Kets 2001
6. 20% for Woodwork 25 [4B] N. Mostert 2009
7. Phalanges Arete 18 [3B] S. Kets 2001

The Polling Booth

Higgovale quarry 04.jpg

1. Easy Victory 12 [5B]
2. FW Who? 14 [5B]
3. Nebulous Pathway 16 [6B]
4. Mandela Magic 18 [5B]
5. Stompie 19 [5B]
6. Stompie direct 19 [5B]
7. Another Nefarious Crack 21 [7B]
8. Cast Your Vote 23/24 [6B]
9. Absolute Interpreter 28 [6B] N.Mostert 2010
10. Umshini Wami 29 [6B] N. Mostert 2011
11. Mandela Magic direct 21 [5B]

Poppies Route.jpg
Poppies Route 9 [3B/R] S. Kets 2001 Note: top anchors are missing as the block fell down