Jacobs Ladder

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Coming to the end of pitch 3 on Jacobs Ladder. Photo Justin Lawson Trish Gaertner on the traverse pitch of Jacobs Ladder. Photo Robert Breyer

Opening Party: C.C. Butler, H. Davis, J.E. Henry, M.P. Mamacos & G.W. Rose Year: 1953 Grade: 16 Star rating: 5 Gear: Standard rack – Double of Single rope. Recommended: Prusik Loops for the second.

“Jacobs Ladder seemed to be a good name for a climb, and we decided to set about finding a climb for it. One of a high standard and worthy of the name” Mike Mamacos – 1952 MCSA Journal

Approach: Climb up to the Staircase ledge (novice climbers may want to belay up to this ledge – grade 9) and walk all the way across (past the Staircase start) finally stepping down to a tree. The route starts at the tree.

Pitch 1: 12 meters (14) From the tree climb up a white face to a ledge with an overhang above

Pitch 2: 35 meters (16) From the belay ledge move up the overhang via a crack. At the top, move right and climb 4 meters up to the horizontal rail. (You can make a hanging belay at the large bollard on the corner – which allows for great photos). Traverse right along the rail and start moving up a vertical crack before you reach the corner (if the grade starts to increase then you have probably gone too far and will need to back track). Continue up the crack until you get to a small ledge.

Pitch 3: 20m (15) From the left hand side of the ledge (when facing the mountain) move up the face until you get to the large ledge and scramble to the top.