Makapansgat

INTRODUCTION

Makapansgat has lain dormant on the climbing scene for the last 2 decades. The palaeontological sensitivity of the place has meant we have been denied access for that time. A more progressive approach is now being taken Limpopo Provincial Government and they have given the MCSA fairly easy and unrestricted access.

The place lies en route to Polokwane and is an ideal weekend trip, or a handy alternative if you’re rained off Blouberg. Its an all-trad venue with a super easy walk-in, very exposed, wild and beautiful camping, deep pools, high waterfalls and easy-to-access cragging. There is lots of new route potential.

ACCESS CONDITIONS

Access is granted based on the goodwill of the Limpopo Provincial Government. The hard work of the MCSA JHB Section, and in particular of Neil Margetts, has paid off and the MCSA has been granted pretty much full access. These are the access conditions. Please don’t screw it up for everyone else:

1. ONLY MCSA MEMBERS AND GUESTS ALLOWED. Each party must have at least one MCSA member. 2. Before visiting, phone the MCSA JHB Section to find out the latest access arrangements and to get directions 3. NO BOLTING 4. No littering, including cigarette stompies 5. No unnecessary damage to plants 6. No animals (i.e. dogs) 7. Fires are allowed but bring your own wood and keep it controlled 8. Swimming is allowed

GETTING THERE

Directions are not given here. Please obtain these from the MCSA.

CAMPING

Camping is right on the lip of the cliffs. There are many flat spots here in a superb position. Apparently there is also an old campsite near the river in the forest below the crags. This sounds like an unnecessary mission.

WEATHER

Like the rest of the highveld expect thunderstorms in summer and warm, dry days and cold nights in winter. The cracks tend to seep in summer after heavy rains, so it might be better to come here in winter. Although, even in a wet year you will find enough dry routes for a weekend.

WATER

The river is perennial but the water quality is not guaranteed. If you’re worried its best to bring your own water.

ETHICS

NO BOLTING ALLOWED!!!!!

ROUTES

Routes are listed from right to left, looking up. The location of some routes could not be pegged down. These RD's are given under the heading HOMELESS ROUTES. If you climb them or know where they go, please update the wiki. The map below shows the main climbing areas:

And here's a map showing the location of some of the routes:

GULLEY AREA

At the western end of the amphitheatre is a descent gulley. The routes in this area climb the pinnacles, slabs and cracked blocks around the gulley.

HEIGHT

20 to 50m.

ACCESS

From the campsite walk west for about 200m until the cliff-edge becomes broken and curls north. Scramble down into the cracks on the right (looking up), then head down and left (looking up) over stacked boulders and through some chimneys. Finish off down a steep gulley blocked by a tree. Don’t screw it up here – you will hurt yourself. The scramble is probably a grade 10 (E). A more pleasant descent is to abseil off a tree to the left (looking up) of the gulley. This takes you down some grey slabs, basically down the route EAGER EAGLETS.

ASPECT

Due to the cracked and broken nature of this area the climbs face in all directions and one will usually find shade.

ROUTES

Here's a map of this area showing some of the older routes:

UP YOURS 15 [N] Situated to the right of the pinnacles (NELSON’S COLUMN et al). This is in the mouth of the large, western descent gulley. Start below a small overhang. 1. 25m 15 (F2) Climb up to and pull through the overhang. Continue up the break to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers, M. Townsend, 1988.

BUNGELJUNNY 19A1 **** [N] Situated on the obvious pinnacle downstream of the descent gulley / climb. Obvious jam crack. 1. ??m 19A1 (G1M1) Climb the recess until it narrows. Use aid (one point) to get over the bulge. Free up crack to easier rock and large ledge. Continue up left hand wall to stance on a small ledge. 2. ??m 15 (F2) Move left around the corner onto sloping rock. Move up through overhang and follow crack line to the top of the pinnacle. Descent: Step across to the main rock band FA: P. Douglas, L. Chambers 1982-08-15.

NO NAME 18 [N] No route description available. This climb is to the right of VUIL ONDERBROEK. FA: M. Brunke, Peter Lazarus, March 1984.

VUIL ONDERBROEK 18 ** [N] Starts 2m right of DABULLA. 1. 30m 18 (F3/G1) Climb the open book to start with, up to a good ledge. Climb the layback crack (crux) to another ledge. Continue up face to the top. FA: M. Richter, Paul Schlotfeldt and party, 1984-02.

DABULLA 19 ** [N] Starts on a flat block 100m to the right of the nek between NELSON’S COLUMN and the main face. Climb a series of steps, the last one being up a crack between the face and a large block. The start is a single crack which turns into a dual crack system. About 5m up the 1st pitch. 1. 10m 17 (F3) Climb the single crack, which turns into a dual crack, to a large ledge. 2. 25m 19 (G1) Climb the crack at the left hand side of the ledge. Some of the original description is missing here… Traverse right about 2 or 3m the final section to the top. FA: M. Richter, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, with G. Margetts on pitch 1 1984-03.

NAMELESS 19 [N] No route description available. This climb is to the left of DABULLA. FA: M. Brunke, Peter Lazarus, March 1984.

REDLEG 17 *** [N] This climbs the east face of the highest free-standing pillar, to the right of the pinnacle ascended by NELSON'S COLUMN. Start at a 3m open book, below the obvious chimney. 1. 20m F3 (17) Ascend the crack to a good ledge and a friendly tree. Purists will climb the chimney above behind the chockstone to emerge on a large ledge. Slim climbers may chimney the 4m crack above, whereas our large brethren will have to perform a bold layback. A huge belay block waits to welcome you. 2. 20m 15 (F2) Climb above the block and step right to a ledge. Step up onto the nose on the left and so back into the crack line. Good crack climbing leads to the summit. Descent: Down climb the gulley on the left. FA: J. Holding, Clive Ward, 1981-10-25.

NELSON’S COLUMN 19 **** [N] Ascends the north-eastern face of the prominent pinnacle visible from the descent gulley and accessed from the bottom of the gulley. Scramble across to the left arête of the pinnacle. 1. 20m 19 (G1) Climb the stacked blocks just left of the pinnacle to a ledge. Traverse right and climb up the middle of the pinnacle face to a good jug. Straight up to top out. Descent: Two options: EITHER drape a rope (or two) over the top of the pinnacle so a tail with knots hangs each side (down the SE and NW faces) and simul-abseil off. OR get someone on the mainland to lower a rope and make a swing for it. Notes: 1. Gear is just adequate. FA: Neil Margetts and S. Brown 1984-04-06.

ZEE ROUTE 15 *** [N] The climb ascends the same pinnacle as NELSON'S COLUMN and was contrived solely for the purpose of making the first ascent. Begin by scrambling onto the pinnacles that stand between the pillar and the main wall, on the left of a gulley. 1. 20m 15 (F2) Take the obvious finger-and-foot traverse to the left edge of the pillar. Pull up and around to some small ledges and climb the groove above to poised blocks. Descend onto the face on the right and traverse right on the slab until a thin crack leads to the top. Notes: 1. An abseil descent can be made to the pinnacles using a block on the right hand side of the final slab. Flick the rope off. FA: J. Holding and Clive Ward, 1981-10-25.

SKRIK 19 ** [N] Starts about 10m right of THE LOVLIEST LADY IN THE LAND. There is a narrow steep crack on the left and a wider crack to the right. SKRIK takes the wider right crack (1m right of VICTORY). 1. 25m 16 (F3) Climb the crack to a small ledge. Continue up over easier ground to the right of a large offwidth. Continue up past a ledge with a cactus on it. Up further to a broad ledge with a steep face to the left. 2. 10m 17 (F3) Traverse left out across the face to the arête. Climb the arête to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, H. Spencer-Wilson 1988-07-20.

VICTORY 19 ** [N] Starts about 10m right of THE LOVLIEST LADY IN THE LAND. There is a narrow steep crack on the left and a wider crack to the right. VICTORY takes the steep left crack (1m left of SKRIK). 1. 40m 19 (G1) Climb the steep crack to a small stance. Continue up over easier ground, keeping the offwidth crack (some of the original description is missing here…). At 25m a good ledge is reached with a large bush in the recess above. Traverse left around the corner and climb a short crack to a large ledge. Climb easier rock rightwards to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Petruska Zaal, Dean Martin 1988-07-17.

THE LOVLIEST LADY IN THE LAND 21 *** [N,2P] Takes the steep face on the true left of the steep descent gulley just after the tree-squeeze-through. This is to the right of GAMATS CHIMNEY. Look out for 2 fixed pegs. 1. 30m 21 (G2) Climb the steep face to the fixed peg. Move up and right to a small stance, passing another fixed peg. Continue up over easier ground. Move leftwards to climb the slab to the right of the arête. At the top of the slab continue up, moving left to make an exposed stance on the top of the arête. FA: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts 1988-07-20.

GAMATS CHIMNEY 16 * [N] Takes the obvious chimney on the true left of the descent gulley just after the tree-squeeze-through. This is to the left of THE LOVLIEST LADY IN THE LAND 1. 15m 16 (F3) Climb the chimney up to the chockstone (crux). Continue up easier ground to top out left into the descent gulley. FA: Darryl Margetts, Dean Martin, 1988-07-19.

ASOLO 9 ** [N] Starts half way down the descent gulley from a flat area above the gulley tree. There are overhangs above. It climbs the true right wall of the gulley. 1. 20m 9 (E1) Climb the corner to the left of the overhangs and up the slab to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, T. Truter and party, July 1987.

EAGER EAGLETS 9 *** [N] Ascends the slab to the left of ASOLO (i.e. on the true right of the descent gulley), and starts lower down, after the tree-squeeze-through. 1. 45m 10 (E2) Climb a steep section initially and then up the pleasant slab to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, G. Margetts, M. Richeer, March 1983. BARBARA’S BONUS 17 *** [N] Start to the left of EAGER EAGLETS at the base of a chimney. 1. 20m 12 (E3) Climb the face to the left of the chimney initially, then move into the chimney to bypass a chockstone. Stance on top of the chockstone. 2. 10m 17 (F3) Climb the crack system on the left wall of the chimney. Notes: 1. There is an easier finish to the second pitch around the corner to the left of the stance. FA: Darryl Margetts and party, July 1987.

I’M THINKING 13 *** [N, R] Start 10m left of BARBARA’S BONUS. The climb ascends the face to the left of the cacti-recess. 1. 40m 13 (F1) Climb the face left of the recess, avoiding the cacti higher up. Move diagonally left to the middle of the face. The final steep section s bypassed by moving slightly left. FA: Wayne Coetzee, Darryl Margetts, H. Spenser Wilson, P. Zaal, C. Spencer Wilson and party, 1987.

PUMPING PIG 22 **** [N] About two thirds of the way down the main descent gulley is a very large tree growing out of the face on the true right. Climb rightwards past the tree and over large blocks. A corner with an obvious crack is visible. The crack goes around an overhang about halfway up and finishes up an overhanging section. Start from the top of a large block. 1. 25m 22 (G3) (or G1 A1) Climb the crack to the overhang and crank through. Climb the crack above until it thins and starts to overhang. Crank through to good holds and stance on the left. 2. 15m 13 (F1) Climb the crack to the top. Notes: 1. Opened with 3 points of aid. FA: H.P. Bakker, J. Brown, Paul Schlotfeldt, September 1983. FFA: Unknown.

TWIN CRACKS AREA

HEIGHT

50 to 100m.

ACCESS

Descend as per The Gulley Area. Continue walking leftwards past some pillars to get to ON EDGE. The wall above gets big and reddish. The Twin Cracks are obvious, SNAAI CRACK being the left-hand of the two. The Twin Cracks lie towards the left-hand side of this Area.

ASPECT

These climbs face north but some routes get shade in the afternoon in summer because of the proximity of the crag to the Tropic of Capricorn. Look out for wasps.

ROUTES

DOGSHOW 21,A0 *** [N] Start at the same point as ON EDGE. 1. 25m 21,A0 Climb the ramp for about 5m then move right into a hand crack running up the steep face. Follow this through 2 good pods to reach a small belay ledge left of a large block. 2. 35m 16 Climb straight up for about 10m following a finger crack. Move left into the short right facing corner and follow this to its top. Break left onto a ledge and move left along this to reach a short chimney. Above this, fun cracks and face moves lead to the top. Note: Opened in poor form, with lots of rests on the rope. If the crack on pitch 1 is dry, it will be worth ***** FA: Andrew Porter and Nic Grech-Cumbo, 2010-12-04

ON EDGE 16 *** [N] Walk past the free-standing pillars on the right-hand side of the crag. There is a ramp which slopes from right to left just beyond the final pillar. Scramble up to a tree belay. 1. 40m 15 (F2) Climb the slab and crack to a belay block, after a barndoor layback. 2. 30m 16 (F2) Continue up behind the belay, following a crack, then step left to the obvious footledge and final slab. Up the slab, thin for 4m, and finish directly. Notes: 1. This route was “re-opened” in 1981 by Clive Ward and J. Holding who named it the name “THE RAMP”. FA: Duncan Peters and Carl Fatti, 1979

AUSTRALUPITECUS ROBUSTUS 19 **** [N] When entering the climbing area from the right, low krantzes are passed at first. Walk past a rock pinnacle then under a hanging boulder stack until reaching the first very high faces. The climb starts 15m to the left of a gulley which becomes a chimney higher up, and about 20m to the right of an impressive chimney which overhangs at the top and goes initially up a slightly overhanging recessed corner. The aim is to climb a long, shallow and featured open book, just left of the arête of the buttress. 1. 40m 18 (F3) Climb a smallish pinnacle at the face then traverse 2m to the right. Climb up then move diagonally left. Make a delicate move to the left to a detached boulder. Climb up into the featured open book and follow this to where it gets steep and hard. Step right to a small ledge just right of the arete. 2. 40m 19 (G1) Move up and right to get on top of a large flake. Move delicately left then pull up left onto a face. Climb up then slightly left. Scramble up to the base of a big reddish open book. Climb the open book until standing on a small, loose chockstone. Swing across the smooth face to the left to the corner of the ridge. Climb to the top. FA: R. Eastman and E. Haber, 1981-01-25.

COLD SHOWER 19 [N] About 30m to the right of the twin cracks. The climb begins in a recess and is distinguished by a curved crack line through white rock on the upper buttress. 1. 25m 17 (F3) Climb the recess and pull overhang on good holds. Continue up the thin crack line to a sloping ledge on the left (loose flakes). 2. 30m 19 (G1) Continue up the crack using the left-hand face. At one point traverse slightly left around a protruding block. Continue up crack to the overhang. Below the overhang traverse left on broken rock to a stance. Scramble to the top. FA: L. Chambers and P. Douglas, 1982-08-14.

RISKY BUSINESS 19X [N] **** Start just to the right of the right hand Twin Crack. The route ascends the rounded buttress to the right of the crack. It follows a featured open book for the first half, then continues up the steep prow above. 1. 60m 17X (F3) Climb up on a block on the left, then swing right to gain the open book. Climb the book to a ledge (up to here the route is shared with ZUNGLEBLAT). Gear is good up to here. Continue straight up then move right to a pod for two marginal cams (0.75 camalot and red Alien). Run it out on steep jugs for 15m to a welcome ledge. Scramble up above this to the base of the obvious corner. 2. 15m 19 (G1) As for AUSTRALUPITECUS ROBUSTUS, climb the corner to above the loose chock stone. Instead of traversing left at the top of the corner, pull through the small roof and continue up to the top. Note: This is a very serious route. A fall on the second half of the first pitch would be disastrous. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze 2010-12-05.

ZUNGLEBLAT 17 [N] Start at the base of an arête 10m right of the twin cracks. 1. 40m 17 (F3) Climb onto the 3m gendarme and traverse right for 3m. Climb diagonally up left to the base of a 1m open book (crux). Continue up book (except for a 2m section where the arête is used) to a stance with loose blocks. 2. 15m 15 (F2) Traverse left from the stance to the arête and climb up 2m to where one can move left around onto a steep exposed face (crux). Climb up the face for 2m then back onto the arête. Finish on large blocks. FA: George and Steven Mallory, date unknown.

SNAAI CRACK 17 [N] This is the left-hand of the twin cracks. 1. 20m 17 (F3) Climb the crack to belay in the second cubbyhole. 2. 35m 17 (F3) Climb the crack (sometimes there are hornets) to the top. FA: Charles Edelstein and Kevin Smith, 1982-08-14.

SPIDERMAN 17 **** [N] Start just left of the twin cracks. 1. 30m 13 (F1) Climb the easy black face for 5m, swing left onto the projecting corner and continue up trending leftwards to a flake with a chockstone behind it (at 15m). Move left to the corner and continue up to a good ledge where the corner steepens. 2. 15m 17 (F3) Climb the steep corner for 5m, swing left (crux) and gain a small ledge. Traverse back right to the corner and continue up to a small ledge below the final smooth red corner. 3. 43m 17 (F3) Climb the corner to the top, finishing just left of a tree on the skyline. FA: D. Peters, P. Heidstra, A McGarr, 1970.

LONG DROP 17 ** [N] Start in the obvious break 20m left of the twin cracks. 1. 40m 15 (F5) Climb break to ledge (35m) with 2 pegs (dubious). Move right around the corner to ledge with peg belay. 2. 45m 17 (F3) Climb the open book. Move left at the top then back right into the open book above the overhang. Follow this to the top. FA: D. Hunter and R. Norman, 1982-03-15.

WATERFALL AREA – TRUE LEFT

HEIGHT

70m.

ACCESS

EITHER descend as per The Gulley Area. Continue walking leftwards past The Twin Cracks Area. Keep going until near the waterfall. OR alternatively set up a fixed abseil anchor from the top.

ASPECT

These climbs face north but some routes get shade in the afternoon in summer because of the proximity of the crag to the Tropic of Capricorn. Look out for wasps.

ROUTES

DRAGON RIDER 24 [N, 1P] **** When standing near Jackal Pinnacle looking across to the other side of the waterfall there are a number of proud red walls. This route ascends the middle of the red wall that has a massive, rectangular block at its base. The climb starts just to the left of this block, beneath a massive fig tree. The easiest access is to abseil off the large tree just next to the campsite, down the chimney DICKIEPOO, and then to walk 15m right to the start of the climb. 1. 30m 20 (G2) Climb up the tree and continue up the wall above using the corner on the left and the crack on the right. Where the corner dies continue straight up the steep, juggy crack to a good ledge. 2. 20m 24 (H2) Directly above the stance is a crack with a piton in it. Climb to the piton then climb the hard crack above this. Continue up the wide crack above, then step left to the arête and climb the final short finger crack to the top. Notes: The piton on the second pitch was in-situ so someone had been there before. FA: Hector Pringle, Wesley Black, Ian Kotze 2010-12-04.

DICKIEPOOH 17 * [N] - DO NOT DO THIS ROUTE BETWEEN MARCH AND SEPTEMBER TO AVOID DISTURBING BLACK EAGLE CHICKS! Situated in the obvious break/chimney with a tree growing out halfway up. Belay on the left of a large block near the face. 1. 40m F2 (15) Climb/scramble to tree. Climb chimney to below blocks in the crack. 2. 25m 17 (F3) Climb up on left hand side of blocks and move slightly right. Continue up steep rock on good holds. Notes: 1. The 17 (F3) section can be avoided by climbing easier rock 2 or 3m further right. FA: R. Norman, I. Beaton and B. Coppin, 1982-08-14.

THE RAMP ROUTE 19 *** [N, 6P] The route takes the prominent left-leaning ramp. 1. 35m 11 (E2) Climb leftwards up the ramp to stance at a peg a few meters below the overlap. 2. 33m 19 (G1) Climb up to the overlap and traverse about 10m left to a good foothold over the trees below. Step around left into the small corner and pull through the overhang to reach easier rock, passing 5 pegs in the process. The obvious break is followed to the top. Notes: 1. First Ascentionist’s comment: “Finding 6 pegs on the climb led us to believe that the route had been ascended before – about 5 years previously judging by the pegs age. However 5 pegs in the space of 3m through the crux is a definite indication of some trickery, so we decided on a free ascent. Accordingly the route is written up in its free form, especially since no previous route description is known.” 2. A likely RD was found for the first Aid ascent: STUCK UP F2, M1 This route goes slightly leftwards up a steep grey ramp just before the crag turns towards the waterfall. As I recall the route was graded F2 with a few aid moves near the top. The leader’s ropes got jammed while he was on the aid moves and he could go neither up nor down and had to be rescued by a rope thrown down from the top. 3. The pegs will be dubious by now. FA: P. de Kock and party, 1970. FFA: Charles Edelstein and Kevin Smith, 1982-08-14.

WATERFALL AREA – TRUE RIGHT

HEIGHT

50 to 80m.

ACCESS

EITHER Descend as per The Gulley Area. Continue walking leftwards past The Twin Cracks and Waterfall – True Left Areas. Cross the river and head up to the rock. OR alternatively set up a fixed abseil anchor from the top.

ASPECT

These climbs face west to south west. Expect afternoon sun.

BUTCHER’S REVENGE 23 **** [N, X] Climbs the middle of the steep, blank wall immediately true right of the waterfall. Approach from the top and abseil down to stance on a small ledge with a tree in the centre of the wall, just above the tree line. 1. 45m 23X (H1) Step off the ledge rightwards and follow the foot-ledge for 3m. From the end of the foot-ledge, head straight up the wall for 8m, with poor and spaced protection, trending slightly leftwards to gain a large ledge below the slight groove. Climb awkwardly up the groove for 3m to a thin break. Arrange some dubious protection here (00 friend, RP2) then climb the 2m wall above on small holds (crux) to a thank-god hold and the first good pro. Continue climbing the groove on good holds and excellent protection. At the large break below the roof, traverse rightwards until an obvious corner leading to the top of the wall is reached. Notes: 1. This is a bold and serious route, generally on sound rock. There are, however, some fragile holds on the lower sections. 2. Opened on an MCSA international meet in the best UK tradition. Pre-inspected but not top roped. Gear placed on lead. FA: John Roberts (visiting from the UK), Neil Margetts, March 2008.

TIDDLYWINKS 17 ** [N] Starts from the bottom, about 100m left of the waterfall. Start below the obvious chimney in the middle of a red wall. 1. 15m 12 (E3) Ascend the chimney to a ledge and traverse right to below the red wall. 2. 40m 17 (F3) Climb the red wall step-wise, to a ledge with a small tree. Traverse left then up to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.

JASPER 17 **** [N] Climbs the break 10m right of LAYEDBACK’s top pitch. Best approached from the top. 3. 30m 17 (F3) Climb crack/recess to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.

LAYEDBACK 19 *** [N] About 50m to the true right of the waterfall is a very prominent corner crack. The crack diverges about halfway up and ends on a large ledge full of aloes. The climb finishes up a wide chimney. From the bottom, ascend roots for 20m to a large dead tree. Start in the corner. 1. 25m 17 (F3) Climb corner crack to large sloping ledge. 2. 30m 19 (G1) Ascend crack past large block to a cubbyhole. Above are two cracks. Ascend the left hand one to a large ledge. 3. 35m 19 (G1) Ascend corner to overhang, jam through on the right past an aloe to a large ledge. Climb chimney to the top. Notes: 1. The top pitch was likely “re-opened” as BALLADE OF ALOES by Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988. FA: H.P. Bakker, J. Brown and Paul Schlotfeldt, 1983-09.

JACKAL PINNACLE AREA

Standing in the campsite and looking across to the other side one can see a deep gulley/chimney to the right of a prominent red and white buttress. The buttress is actually a free-standing pinnacle at its top. There are three places to climb in this area: 1. The front of the buttress 2. The steep walls to the right of the pinnacle (i.e. to the right of the chimney) 3. The walls on either side of the nek between the pinnacle and the mainland

The steep walls to the right of the pinnacle are split at mid-height by Suicide Ledge, so named because it is littered with carcasses from the eagle’s nest above its right hand end (this is about 20m right of ENTROPY’s top pitch). The rock near the nest is choss, so there are two reasons not to climb here.

HEIGHT

20 to 60m.

ACCESS

Descent to the base of the routes: 1., 2. For the front of the buttress and the steep walls to the right it is possible to walk in to the base from either the left or right, but this is a real mission. It is better to abseil off a tree at the top of the chimney forming the right hand side of the pinnacle. It is a good idea to set up an equalised anchor here with some gear to supplement the tree. Go under the tree branch half way down, on Suicide Ledge. Its about 50m to the ground.

3. For climbs from the nek, set up an anchor at the top with some gear and ab in.

Getting off the top of the pinnacle There is a tree growing up from the nek on the NW corner of the pinnacle. The top branches of the tree brush the top of the pinnacle. Abseil off one of these branches into the nek (they are solid). Climb one of the routes out to get back to the mainland (the CONSTANT GARDENER is the easiest).

ASPECT

Most climbs here face west to south west. Expect afternoon sun, ezpecially in mid-summer. The short routes out from the nek face in all directions.

ROUTES

KONFUZED KITTEN 19R *** [N] Climbs up the obvious wall between ENTROPHY and LAYED BACK. 1. 20m 10 Scramble up choss to reach the tree, then move right onto a fun ramp. Belay on a ledge just before a chimney breaks up to the left. 2. 60m 19R Move 5m up the ramp and then break left into the steep chimney. Follow this to a large ledge. Climb the overhanging corner on the left hand side of the ledge for 5m to reach a flake. Break right onto the steep face and climb up and then left to reach the next ledge. An impressive finger crack lies directly above. Ignore this, and move left along the ledges to the arête. Climb this to the next ledge and the one above that. Move left to avoid creepers and follow the easiest, pleasant route to the top. FA: Andrew Porter and Nic Grech-Cumbo, 2010-12-04.

ENTROPY 22A0 **** [N] Climbs the steep wall to the right of the pinnacle to Suicide Ledge, then traverses right for 15m to finish up an obvious open book to the top. 1. 25m 20 (G2) Start under the thin finger crack. Climb up to where the jugs end then traverse left to the obvious flake. Up the flake to a crux move up and right to a small ledge. Step right and climb up just to the right of the hanging black in the main crack line. Step back left above the block and move left onto the face. Up the face to a small ledge, then up just right of the gulley/chimney to Suicide Ledge. 2. 25m 22A0 (G3) Walk about 15m right to beneath a corner crack. Climb the crack until the angle eases. Continue up the steep open-book above and make a tricky mantle onto a mossy ledge. Top out. Notes: 1. Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good. 2. The second pitch was opened with one rest. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze and Christie Terrell, 2007-11-03.

THE EVOLUTION VARIATION 22 ***** [N] This is a variation to the first pitch of ENTROPY. 1. 25m 22 (G3) Start as for Entropy but continue straight up the finger crack. Higher up step left above the hanging block to rejoin the original Entropy line. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze and Christie Terrell, 2007-11-04.

THE GRIM REAPER 21 ** [N] Starts from the left end of Suicide Ledge. Directly above Entropy’s bottom pitch there is a vague corner up grey rock, behind the yellowwood tree. This is just right of the gulley/chimney. 1. 25m 21 (G2/G3) Climb the thin grey slab to a vague rest. Step left then up the vague corner to make a desperate mantle onto a mossy ledge. Place a good cam high up on the right (one move above the ledge), step back down and traverse left into the nek. Belay at the massive tree. To top out climb one of the routes out of the nek. Notes: 1. This climb is poorly protected. In some places don’t even think of falling. 2. Micro’s are essential. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze and Christie Terrell, 2007-11-04.

THE CONSTANT GARDENER 17 ** [N] This climb provides a route out of the nek to the mainland. Start in the NW corner of the nek. 1. 15m, 17 (F3) Climb the corner crack to the top. FA: Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle and Ian Kotze, 2007-11-04.

THE DECLINE OF THE AMERICAN EMPIRE 18 *** [N] This climb provides a route out of the nek to the mainland. There are 3 cracks to the left of THE CONSTANT GARDENER. This climbs the left hand, hand-sized crack. 1. 15m, 18 (F3) Climb the crack to the top. FA: Ian Kotze and Hector Pringle, 2007-11-27.

ROCK ADDICTION 16 *** [N] When standing in the nek there are two cracks to the top of Jackal Pinnacle. This climbs the right hand one. 1. 15m, 16 (F2) Climb the crack to the top. FA: Ian Kotze and Hector Pringle, 2007-11-27.

LAMB TO THE SLAUGHTER 19 *** [N] Takes the offwidth up the from of Jackal Pinnacle. 1. 20m, 19 (G1) Climb the offwidth to a ledge, which is actually the top of a smaller subsidiary pinnacle. 2. 30m, ??? Step across to the main wall and climb the corner till it eases. Continue up on the right to the top. FA: Graham and Christie Terrell, 2007.

DAY OF THE JACKAL 22 **** [N] Climbs the front of Jackal Pinnacle. Start at the sublime-looking finger crack in the face, towards the left of the east side of the pinnacle. This is left of a smaller subsidiary pinnacle which leans against the main one. 1. 35m, 20 (G2) Climb the crack to a ledge. Walk left to the corner and climb past the tree to the crack above. Where the crack gets very easy traverse right to the middle of the face. Climb straight up to a ledge below a steep finger crack. 2. 15m, 22 (G3) Climb the finger crack to the top. FA: Hector Pringle and Ian Kotze, 2007-11-27.

CLIT 11 ** [N] Start 6m right of the corner at the left side of JACKAL PINNACLE. The corner becomes a steep broken gulley higher up, separating the pinnacle and the main wall. The routes takes the obvious corner crack which passes left of the overhanging block at 10m and goes past a large Naboom at 30m. 1. 30m, 10 (E2) Climb the corner crack past the overhanging block and up to a ledge with a 1.5m flake. Continue up the delicate slab in the corner until able to step left onto the Naboom ledge. Up 2m to the next ledge. 2. 38m, 11 (E3) Climb smooth, steep face above using thin crack to the tree at 6m. Move right and up through overhang then back to the crack line. Climb straight up face (left side of buttress) to chimney which is undercut to start, with overhangs on the right. Climb corner on the left edge of the buttress to the top. FA: D. Peters, J. Newington and L. Mallen, 1974-07-28.

HOMELESS ROUTES

If you know where these routes are please update the RD's accordingly.

FIGHT IT WITH YOUR MIND 19 [N] Takes the open recess to the left of SNAPAKAMTAG. The route starts where the foot of the crag begins to rise up to the left and a large tree grows from the base of the face next to a chimney on the right-hand side of a small buttress. Scramble 10m up the buttress to belay on ledges in a corner. 1. 30m F2 (15) Traverse right and climb up next to the trunk of the large tree to a ledge. Move slightly right and climb a short, steep face on good holds. Move back left and ascend in the corner until able to step right onto white-spattered ledges (beware leaning pillar at top of corner). Go right and climb the recess to stance in the cool behind a 2.5m blocky flake. 2. 40m 19 (G1) Rather than try the steep corner overhead, traverse left from above the flake to an exposed position on easier rock. Climb diagonally right to a point above the steep corner and carry on to where the continuation break steepens. Traverse left across the face to an easier corner which is followed most of the way to the top. Notes: 1. After traversing left from the stance one could continue straight up over stepped rock, but this looks a bit dirty. FA: Charles Edelstein and Kevin Smith, 1982-08-15.

PASSATTA 19 [N] Start on right hand side of large pinnacle under large shady tree. 1. 40m 17 (F3) Climb pinnacle. Step onto main rock face. Climb 5m then traverse left into chimney between pinnacle and rock face. Stance on top of pinnacle. 2. 10m 19 (G1) Proceed up jugs on main face with strenuous pull throughs. Traverse left and move up to stance on ledge. 3. ??m 19 (G1) Move 3m left and climb strenuously to the summit. FA: George and Steven Mallory, 1982-08-15.

ABNORMAL LOAD 19 [N] Follows an obvious break in the eastern wall above a grey buttress. The break is one of two which slope to the right above the first ledge. 1. 12m 17 (F3) Start where the left edge of the grey buttress meets the main wall. Climb to the top of the buttress. Climb diagonally left into a closed-off open book. Step left onto the face and climb up to a large ledge. 2. 23m 19 (G1) Climb broken rock to the right of the diagonal crack line to the base of an overhanging open book. Climb the book to a large ledge. FA: S. Morkel and Terry White, 1982-11-20.