Rocking Horse (19)**
A long walk for a route that looks better than it is. The crack feature is visible from miles away, but is marred by suspect rock.
Approach as for Maverick Crag, but just before the main crag, turn left and follow the yellowstone gully path for a few minutes to pass teh Mini Maverick crag. Follow your nose left, across the grass ledge to the one-route buttress. Scramble up to the right edge of a shelf.
Pitch 1: 35m, 19 Up and right for a few moves, then up to the roof. Rail right and into the corner (be careful with the Rocking Horse block perched at the base of the corner). Up to the next roof and pull left into the crack. Pull up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the crack, where the rock quality deteriorates. At the ledge, step left and easily up the wide corner crack to the top. Convenient abseil tree.
There is an indirect start at a similar grade, maybe a titch harder. From the nice flat block at the left end of the base of the face, pull up to a good rail. A few moves right then up to another rail and again right and up at a diagonal break. Traverse right to meet the main vertical crack line. Safest is to climb up a few meters, past the dodgy rock to belay.
FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2020)
There are a few easy routes (20-25m long) a bit to the left (facing the mountain) and around the corner from Maverick Crag.
1. Slip and Slide (19)*** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2020)
2. Trot Face (19) *** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2020)
3. Powered Down (17) ** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2020)
4. Tuckered Out (17)** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2020)
There are eight routes in the new Cape Peninsula Select guidebook by Tony Lourens.
1. The Marlin Boon has been down-graded from 26 to 25.
1. No Country For Old Men (23), 2. Maverick (23), 3. Unforgiven (24), 4. Walk the Line (23), 5. Shock Treatment (22), 6. The Marlin Boon (25), 7. Jokerman (23),
8. Joko Man (22), 9. Crash of the Titan (24), 10. Swordfish Trombone (22), 11. Bohemian Eels (26?). Topo: R. Halsey
The routes below have been added since the guide was published.
Crash of the Titan (24)
Start: 2m left of Maverick from the top of a stack of blocks.
Pitch 1. 20m (21) Climb straight up through a steep bulge with several horizontal rails. Cross No Country for Old Men (P1) under a small, capped recess and then pull up left into a peapod feature. Continue up the crack to a stance on a platform.
Pitch 2. 30m (24) Head straight up to a roof, pass this on the right and then left under the next roof. Continue straight up vertical cracks and flakes to below the large overhang system. Move up and left onto a small pillar. Fiddle in some gear and then head steeply up and right over space aiming for a rail below the next horizontal roof. Continue right until the roof terminates, where you take the first break up and left to the ledge, with in situ abseil point.
FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Aug 2013.
Bohemian Eels (26?)
Start: 8m left of Jokerman.
Pitch 1. 15m (26?) Scramble up a short pillar with a large square block on top. Climb about 1.5m up to a rail then traverse right 2m to a finger crack though the roof. Crank up to a large layback hold and then up to the next roof. Traverse left to a platform. Move up and right a few meters to a stance by a tiny shrub on a small ledge (good gear in thin rail up and left). Concensus grading needed.
Pitch 2. 20m (19) From the stance head up and right, passing a tiny overhang on its right, to a larger roof. Pull through this, past a layback, to another roof on the right (level with Jokerman abseil). Step left and pull up into a tiny corner, then pull up and right to the vertical hand crack, which is followed to a small platform on a prow. The abseil from in situ anchor is exactly 30m.
FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, 2013.