Mohlapitse Valley

From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Ad climbza directory.jpg

Mohlapitse climbing.jpg
Mohlapitse Valley
Loading map...
Climbing TypeTrad
Rock TypeSandstone
Seasonall year, best in winter
AreaMohlapitse Valley


ma-Kgopa Crag

Ma-Kgopa Crag.jpg

This is the first crag to be climbed in the Mohlapitse Valley. The crag ranges in height from a single short pitch to 2 pitches.
You'll preferably have a vehicle with high ground clearance to get there - it is certainly possible to get to the crag in a sedan, but it may take a little negotiating... Parking is a very short walk from the crag.
The crag is situated on a bend in the Mohlapitse River - when this river is in flood (usually in summer), the bottom of the crag may get quite soggy!
Although climbing is possible throughout the year, the crag is best suited to winter-climbing.
Sectors are described here from left to right when looking at the crag.

Pinnacle Sector:

Dream Snatcher (18, 7 draws, 14m)

Follow the bolts to the left of an overhanging bulge and follow the open book to a large ledge. Beware the large loose overhanging block to the right of the line, above the second bolt! Continue up the open book through an obvious slot to the rings. Use two 60cm slings on the top anchors to avoid rope drag when top-roping.
FA: Bron Egan - 2 August 2020; BB: Vince Egan

Picnic Sector:

This sector is on the far right of the crag, looking from the base, from an ascent gully behind the Pinnacle sector to a large open book on the right. There is a clearing at its base, this being a great spot to have lunch, with ample shade.

Staircase (17, trad, 18m)

The route starts directly opposite the picnic site clearing, following the obvious left-trending steps up the centre of the face. The top anchors are hangers with rusty bolts of dubious value.
FA: Errol Nienaber and Jan Fouche, unknown date

Art and Sole (18, 8 draws, 17m)

Climb through a bulge and move right and up, following the line of bolts. Be careful of Z-clipping at the second bolt! Climb to the rings above. Climbing is sustained for the first 3-4 bolts, with the crux section(s?) low down.
FA: Aine Egan - 20 September 2020; BB: Vince Egan

Closed Project (5 draws, 14m)

Three bolts up to top anchors on the face to the left of the open book on the far right of the crag.Shares top anchors with Incy Wincy Spider. Closed Project - Vince Egan.
BB: Vince Egan

Incy Wincy Spider (14, trad, 14m)

Ascend the obvious large open book facing the picnic spot. The route is great for those learning to trad, with plenty of placements and not being too strenuous.
FA: Errol Nienaber and Jan Fouche, unknown date


Loading map...


Access is currently being negotiated mith the Serala Community by the MCSA. Watch this space for developments!
The Serala Community has requested that climbers should contact Vince or Bron Egan (082 412 7247 or 081 402 0417 respectively) prior to their visit. This is an interim measure pending a formal permit system to be implemented by the community.
Please note:

  • Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
  • You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts