Muizenberg Buttress

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This is a multi pitch trad climbing area, grades 14 - 26. Approximately 20 min walk up to crag. The crag gets shade in the afternoon and is a good winter venue as it dries out quickly. There are excellent toprope problems above the tea cave.

Getting there

Take M3 from Cape Town. Get onto Boyes Drive. The crag is located on Boyes Drive, just around the corner from the Lakeside Pinnacle. Park just before the large sandstone boulder on Boyes Drive (not far from one of the turnoffs back down to the main road. The path starts just left of the boulder.


Descent

To the left of the tea cave is a series of brown faces broken by broad ledges. Some oaf has painted large letters on one of them so it is impossible to mistake the basic line. When you get to the top, walk left and come down the ridge (as above)

There are some tat rap stations spotted around too.

New routes

Jungle Oats (22) ****

A long, satisfying journey with demanding sections.

Start as for Fantasy Factory but tend slightly right though the low roof and straight to the ledge. Continue straight, passing the first roof on the left, and then directly up passing two horizontal breaks (in this section there are some ancient bolts to the right from an abandoned project). At the next ledge, continue straight up a wide recess and though a weakness at the next overlap on the left. Navigate the centre of the final face, tending right at the top to a final crank through a roof to a ledge. Abseil tat to the left.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2019)

JO.jpg

Jungle Oats takes on the bown ampitheatre direct, rap tat in situ.


Jelly Fish Face (19) **

A fun section on the headwall.

P1:~40m, 17 Start up Not Just a Pretty Face until a small ledge. Pull through the small roof and step right. Follow a series of small recesses that are to the left of the main fault and belay on a the ramp about 8m below the roof above.

P2: 25m, 19 Head up and slight right to reach the roof. Pull through this and establish on the face above. Follow straight to the top on the nice headwall.

FA: R. Halsey, R. Strate & M. Thilo (Aug 2019)

JFF.jpg


Route Info

The crag is in Peninsula Rock Volume 1 (out of print) by Tony Lournes and Richard Behne or Cape Peninusula Select by Tony Lourens, published in 2013.

Recommended routes:

  • Great Sloth /20 15m
  • Wasted Direct /21 37m
  • All Bran /12 74m
  • Joker in the Pack /22 71m
  • Muesli /19 75m
  • Cornflake /20 30m
  • No Name Brand /14 97m
  • Snap /16 73m
  • Missing in Action /18 76m
  • Fool on the Hill /19 96m
  • Not Just a Pretty Face /13 127m
  • Jam Up and Jelly Tight /18 78m
  • Crackle /16 98m
  • Dancing on the Ceiling /25 20m
  • Agrippa /20 108m
  • Understairs /14 82m
  • Dilettante /18 98m