Oxy Wall

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On the top of Tafelberg there is a large gulley opening out onto the back (north east) side of the mountain. The east side of this gulley contains a great crag of impeccable, hard, orange rock. It is a couple of hundred metres long, mostly about 20m - 30m high, and offers some great single pitch climbing of moderate grade. The crag itself faces north west to west and thus enjoys morning shade and afternoon sun. The naming theme is based on oxymorons.

It is possible to walk along the top of the mountain and descend the gulley directly to the base of the crag but you will have to find the correct gulley and scramble a bit. It is probably easier to abseil in from the top of the crag. This also means that you finish off by climbing back out, thus easily retrieving any gear you left for the abseil or for lowering back down from any of the routes.

Access: The easiest way to get to the crag is to head up the ascent/descent gulley past the chain. Scramble up 5m higher than the top of the chain and then turn right as if going to the water cistern. Continue along the ledge until it ends about 80m past the water cistern. Set up an abseil somewhere here. There is a nice abseil point 10m past where the ledge ends in the mouth of a small gulley (you have to swing around the corner using some large jugs). This abseil is just under 30m long and gets you down onto a nice ledge from where you can walk/scramble to the base of the routes.

Tafelberg, Oxy Wall.
Tafelberg, Oxy Wall.
Yellow square = end of the walk-in ledge
Yellow line = Good abseil line (~25m)
A = Miltary Intelligence
B = Virtual Reality
C = Corporate Ethics
D = Real Magic
E = Deafening Silence
F = Act Naturally
G = Criminal Justice
H = Head Butt
I = Random Order
J = Deeply Superficial

Miltary Intelligence (14) ****

Climbs the easy, orange recess directly below the end of the walk in ledge, about 10m left of the abseil point.

  • 1. 30 m (14) Start off a ledge just right of a huge, leaning block. Climb up just left of the black streaks and step left above the roof. Continue straight up the orange rock to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

Virtual Reality (14) *****

Climbs the arete just right of the abseil.

  • 1. 30 m (14) Start on the ledge directly below the abseil. Climb up and out right onto the juggy arete. Climb straight up and through a notch in the small roof at the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2015)

Corporate Ethics (19) ****

Climbs the face about 10m right of the abseil.

  • 1. 30 m (19) Climb up the right hand side of the large block below the undercut face. Climb straight up the face staying just left of the easy crack and pull through the small roof at the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

Real Magic (21) ****

Right of the abseil is a very undercut section of the crag. This short line climbs just right of this to a lower ledge at about 2/3 the height of the crag.

  • 1. 20 m (21) Start just right of a large, grey block at a ~5m high, shallow recess capped by a small roof. Crank up to the roof then reach a little right until able to reach past the roof and pull up left onto a small ledge. Climb straight up to the ledge.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2015)

Deafening Silence (20) *****

Climbs the orange face and sharp, left-facing corner of the roof system.

  • 1. 30 m (20) Start at twin cracks directly below the sharp corner. Climb the cracks, step left, and climb straight up to the corner. Pull around onto the front and climb up the steep crack system to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

Act Naturally (21) ****

Climbs the middle of the face about 10m right of a large, rightward tending crack.

  • 1. 30 m (21) Start just left of the undercut section. Climb up, tending just slightly right, to the apex of a large, grey, triangular flake in front of the upper face. Step off the flake, move carefully left to a crack, and climb this to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

Criminal Justice (18) ***

Just left of the very steep sector at the right of the crag.

  • 1. 20 m (18) Start behind the the big boulder at the base of the wall. Head up, passing a small roof on the right. Traverse 2m left over roof, then straight to the top on big holds.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2015)

Head Butt (17) ***

Just left of the very steep sector at the right of the crag.

  • 1. 20 m (17) Start just right of the big boulder at the base of the wall. Climb straight up the grey streaks to the top

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Feb 2015)

Random Order (17) ***

Just left of the very steep sector at the right of the crag.

  • 1. 20 m (17) Start 3m right of the big boulder at the base of the wall. Pull up to a rail. Traverse 2m right to a miniature corner feature. Use this to gain the next rail and step back left. Straight to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2015)

Deeply Superficial (19) ****

Just left of the very steep sector at the right of the crag.

  • 1. 20 m (19) Start 7m right of the big boulder at the base of the wall. Pull up to an undercling, then through to rail. Follow grey streaks up to finish via a short, square chimney-like feature.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Feb 2015)


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