Pakhuis Pass
A pass made famous by its bouldering, the Pakhuys Pass also offers plenty of sport climbing and trad.
On the Calvinia side of the pass is Faith, Hope and Charity: three buttresses offering many trad routes, mostly opened in the early 80's.
New routes added to an area right of Faith, Hope and Charity in this pdf:
https://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/6/6d/Pakhuis_Pass_New_Trad.pdf
Routes on the pass down towards De Pakhuys
Pickles in the Pass (22) ***
A multi-pitch route on the left side of the pass as you drive down toward De Pakhys campsite. Afternoon shade. There is a convenient laybay you can park at and take the line of least resistance to walk up the slope. The route starts more or less in the middle of the wall on darker brown rock near a left facing recess with a roof a few meters up.
Some great climbing on the last two pitches, but shark infested territory lower down. Two abseils with 60m ropes gets you back down.
Not much information on the climbing in this area. There was some ancient tat on the ledge after pitch 2 about 10m of pitch 2 stance so some climbing has been done on this wall before.
P1:~25m (21). Up the blocky features to the roof and pull through a break and step left to a small ledge. Head straight up past the right side of the low roof. To avoid getting into a pickle, embrace the surrounding fragility and tread lightly but confidently onwards until you reach a good rail. Move up and left to a vague recess which is followed to rail, traverse right to a small stance on a narrow ledge.
P2:~25m (18) Move up and slightly right from stance to stay on the most solid rock. More or less straight up to a ledge (rap tat around a touch point)
P3: ~25m (19) From the stance, again head up more or less straight aiming for a wide horizontal break. Step right and pull up on improving rock quality to a neat ledge.
P4: ~30m (22) Bester than sex pitch. Walk slightly right from the stance and romp up steep orange rock, tending ever so slightly right. Pull through the final narrow roof and up to a vegetated ledge - tat around a small tree.
Two abseils saves a long walk so you are not too late for the party.
FA?: R. Halsey, S. Nightingale & R. Strate (13 Aug 2019)
De Pakhuys
Routes in the Witness/ Dihedral valley. Walk in as for dihedral, before reaching the top head right along the cliff band.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Rooi Rok Bokkie | 28/7c | ? Bolts | BB. Alex Bester 2017. FA. James Barnes 2017. | Busts through a horizontal roof. | ||
| Open Project | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2017. | ||||
| Kerk, werk en dans | 27/7b+ | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Wesley Black 2017. |
Buttress to the right of the Rooi Rok Bokkie Buttress.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Son Steeker | 26/7b | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Alex Bester 2017. |
Bester Crag (UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
Contact Alex Bester via social media or in person for access.
Crags described from the closest to the campsite and routes from the left to the right.
Moon Rise Wall
Crag with a small cave, 5min walk above the start of the trail leading to the crag.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Locked up | ?17 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel. 2020.
FA. Warren Gans 2020. |
Far left of the crag (around the corner). | ||
| Locked down | ?18 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020.
FA. Warren Gans 2020. |
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| Lockdown Loving | 19 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Jessica Waldman 2020. | Starts on a ledge. |
The Caves
Three small caves increasing in size from left to right.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Die Skerpioen | 20 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Peter van der Merwe 2020. | Crimpy warmup to the left of small cave. | ||
| Die Swartkat | 24 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. | Technical powerful crimpfest up the right of a small cave. | ||
| Die Rooi Maan | 20 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Jessica Waldman 2020. | Reachy crimp-line up and left of the arete. | ||
| OPEN PROJECT | ?28 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. | Diagonal crack. | ||
| Spoeg en plak | 26 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020.
FA. Tiffany Wells 2020. |
Starts on a boulder. | ||
| Imossible | 26 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. | Bouldery line up green lycan streak. | ||
| The Fearmonger Open Project | ?34 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. | Compression roof climbing, twisting turning through the roof and snatching for your dear life on the lip will set you free. |
Diagon Alley
A kloof (gorge) hidden to the right of the Rooikat face. At the rooikat face, walk to the far right, cross a small gulley scrambling along a ledge to a big block. Mantle onto the block and mantle onto the ledge to the left, following the "path" to the cliff line where you will come across "The Leaky Cauldron (15)". Climb "The Leaky Cauldron" to enter Diagon Alley. The chains can later be used for an abseil anchor to descend all the way to the base of the Rooikat sector safely.
An alternative approach to Diagon Alley can be taken via the Office's back door, traversing the top of the crag and entering via the back of the gulley.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| The Leaky Cauldron | 18 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. FA. ? | Front entrance to Diagon Alley. Galvanized chains 2020. |
Diagon Alley TRUE LEFT (staring down the valley - left)
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Marauding Muggles | 15 | 4 + 2 | * | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. FA. Peter van der Merwe 2020. | Leftmost line. Big jugs!!! | |
| Ministry of Magic | 16 | 4 + 2 | ** | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. | ||
| Incantations and Spell-craft | 22 | 3 + 2 | *** | BB & FA. Peter van der Merwe 2020. | ||
| Mischief Managed | 23 | 6 + 2 | ** | BB. Ebert Nel 2020.
FA. Alex Bester 2020. |
||
| I solemnly swear that I am up to no good | 24 | 6 + 2 | *** | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. |
Diagon Alley TRUE RIGHT (staring down the valley - right)
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Jinx'd | 20 | 4 + 2 | **** | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. | So you think you can climb slab? |
Rooikat Muur
Big beautiful orange wall. Please start by tying a knot in the end of your rope.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| OPEN PROJECT | ?28 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. FA. | 80m rope! The leftmost line, climb thin crack, onto a ledge, leading into an openbook close to the top. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| LinkUP | OPEN PROJECT
(Pearson the void) |
?30 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. | 80m rope! Climb the leftmost line till below the openbook ledge, crimping diagonally out right into (below the ledge) into the roof crack and blast to the top of the crag! Galvanized chains 2020. | |
| OPEN PROJECT | ?32 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. | 80m rope! Second line from the left. Easy climbing to blank section (Stack rocks/dyno?) followed by semi parallel opposing sidepulls with an extremely technical headwall, into the roof crack and blasts to the top of the crag. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| OPEN Project | ?31 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2019. | 80m rope Technical crimp/crackfest. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Rooikat P1 | 24 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Alex Bester 2020. | 70m ropeFollows a jammy crack onto a ledge where Pitch 2 begins. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| PROJECT
(Rooikat P2) |
?26 | ? Bolts | BB. Alex Bester 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. |
The Catacombs
The base of the crag is made up by a labyrinth of caves with crazy potential.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Flatten the curve | 30 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2020.
FA. Marijus Smigelskis 2020. |
Mantle into a scoop under the roof and blast through the bouldery roof. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| The Mongai | 26 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Alex Bester 2020. | Bouldery sequence through the overhang. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| There goes the neighborhood | 24 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Alex Bester 2020. | First line on the farm. Already a classic. Tall line with an excellent boulder problem at every bolt. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Captain Kook and The Starfleet | 22 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2019. | Gnarly offwidth if you get too involved. Galvanized chains 2019. | ||
| 33 Days later | 27 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Alex Bester 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| The hills have eyes | 24 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Some like it Jaffel | 22 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel 2019. FA. Jessica Waldman 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Linkup | OPEN PROJECT | ? Grade | ? Bolts | BB Ebert Nel 2020. | Starts as for "Some like it Jaffel", traverse under the roof along the horizontal and merge with "Cederbergs' Most Wanted". Galvanized chains 2020. | |
| Most Wanted Project | ?30 | ? Bolts | BB Peter van der Merwe 2020. | Starts on the far right of the Catacombs. Exposed overhanging classic. Galvanized chains 2020. |
The Office
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS + CHAINS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Open Project | ?30 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel. 2020. | Irregular moves through a roof, jugs, with a spicy slab at the top. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Bloodline Project | ?29 | 9 + 2 | BB. Peter van der Merwe 2020. | To the right of a roof, bouldery start into horizontal, traverse left and upwards. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Queen of Corona | 26 | 6 + 2 | BB & FA. Alex Bester 2020. | A technical masterpiece. Starts on the corner, moves out left and up. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Monarchy Project | ?31 | 6 + 2 | BB. Ebert Nel 2019. | Boulder your way through the immaculate cruxy overhanging stepped arete. Galvanized chains 2019. | ||
| The Hand Maiden | 26 | 7 + 2 | BB. Jessica Waldman 2020. FA Alex Bester 2020. | Start on a rock stack. Crimpy technical face climb. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Scavenger | 17 | 6 + 2 | BB & FA. Peter van der Merwe 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Living off the land | 19 | 7 + 2 | BB & FA. Ebert Nel 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Prohibition | 22 | 6 + 2 | BB & FA. Jessica Waldman 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Isolation | 17 | 1 + 7 + 2 | BB. Ebert Nel 2020. FA. Peter van der Merwe 2020. | Starts at the belayer bolt (the extra +1). Traverse out from under the roof and climb up a slabby face. Airy! Galvanized chains 2020. |
Reggae Reggae
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS + CHAINS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| OPEN PROJECT | ?23 | ? Bolts | BB. Ebert Nel. 2020. | Far left of the crag. Mantle into a scoop and climb out left up a broken, semi overhanging face. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Roots Manuva | ?21 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Theo Greveling 2020. | Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| Injecting Marijuana | ?22 | ? Bolts | BB & FA. Theo Greveling 2020. | Starts on a pedistal. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| OPEN PROJECT
(Mal plat) |
>28? | ? Bolts | BB. Theo Greveling 2020. | Up the buldgey orange wall. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| OPEN PROJECT
(Dayz of our lives) |
?31 | ? Bolts | Ebert Nel 2020 | 12m Horizontal roof. Galvanized chains 2020. | ||
| The Armadillo | 23/24? | 10 Bolts | BB & FA Richard Halsey 2022 | Face and overhanging arete. Halfway between Corona and Stove Legs. |
Travelers Rest Crag
https://www.climbing.co.za/pdf/uncategorized/maaschland-crag-route-guide-rocklands/