Silvermine Crags
 | |
|
|
|
| Silvermine Crags | |
|
|
|
| Latitude | -34.075626 |
|---|---|
| Longitude | 18.407666 |
| Climbing Type | Sport |
| Rock Type | Sandstone |
| Season | All year round |
| Province | Western Cape |
| Area | Cape Town |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Silvermine is probably the most popular climbing area on the Cape Peninsula with short walk-ins, good rock quality and many excellent routes. Silvermine has five different crags and over 80 routes with grades ranging from 13 to 28. The crags go into the shade in the early afternoon. The Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawlty Towers for some harder stuff. The most recent addition is Silverminor Crag.
Contents
Silvermine Climbing History
The Silvermine Crags have been climbed since the 60′s, but the crags first became popular when they were bolted in the 90′s. In 2008, many of classic routes have been re-bolted.
Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawlty Towers for some harder stuff.
- ±80 single pitch sport routes
- Grades 4 to 7b+
- 10 to 25 minute walk-in
Season
All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, resulting in crag congestion at the most popular crags, like Lower Silvermine Main
Entry Times
07:00 - 18:00 Summer (October - March) Exit at 19:00
08:00 - 17:00 Winter (April - September) Exit at 18:00
Activities after hours / Late exit: R500 fine
Contact
Tel +27 21 701 8692
Emergency Tel: +27 86 110 6417
Email: tablemountain@sanparks.org
Website: tmnp.co.za
Gear
Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are higher than 25m.
Sivermine Crags Map
The climbing
Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.
Getting There
From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R45.00 to get into the reserve (January 2016). A Wild card also gets you in. Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.Wildcard
Areas
Lower Silvermine Crag
Routes from L to R
Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the path down and abseil point. The path down to the crag goes on the right (when the crag below you). You can also abseil into this crag, The abseil anchors are safely set back about from the edge (a doubled rope will get you to the bottom)
NEW ROUTES: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-RivYbhfbIs80M82kIQ3eE7isxCy-c7RQAg-O6w06xQ/edit?usp=sharing
Cloud Nine Wall
- A-On Cloud Nine *** (21+/6b+) [11B+C] FA: C. Tooze 10/11/2018 *Note: route starts on path to crag, not on the ledge.
- B-Bedazzled *** (21/6b+) [5B+C] FA: M. Gowans 2002
- C-Vortex *** (20/6b) [7B+C] FA: T.Lourens 2002
- D1-Cosmik Debris *** (21/6b+) [6B+C] FA: T.Lourens 2002
- D2-Nimbus *** (19/6a+) [6B+C] FA: M. Gowans 2002
- D3-Clouds over Mordor *** (18/6a) [7B+C] FA: B. Watts 15/11/2018
- D4-Lord of The Ring *** (16/5b) [10B+C] FA: B. Davies 01/2009
- D5-My Precious **** (20/6b) [5B+C] FA: M. Gowans 2004 Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
- D6-Ring Sting *** (22/6c) [6B+C] FA: S.Maasch 2006
Cormac on 'On Cloud Nine'
Main/ Original Sector:
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| E | Blockhead | 6b/20 | (6B+C) | |||
| E.50 | Skywalker | 6c+/23 | BB: G Hart/FA: J Temple-Forbes | Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue. | ||
| E.75 | Mantra | 4c/13/14 | [11B; C] | FA: G. Peckham & B. Lambourne 30/03/08 | ||
| F | Chicks Dig it Lank | 4b/13 | (6B+C) | |||
| G | Serendipity | 4c/14 | (6B+C) | |||
| H | Rough Rider | 5a/15 | (6B+C) | |||
| I | Flakes | 5a/15 | (6B+C) | |||
| J | Alpha & Omega | 6b+/22 | (6B+C) | |||
| K | Fool's Garden | 6a+/19 | (6B+C) | |||
| L | Obideah | 6a/18 | (8B+C) | |||
| Between the Lines | 6b/20 | |||||
| M | Jedeiah | 6a/18 | (6B+C) | |||
| N | The Gift | 5b/16 | (7B+C) | |||
| O | Hard as it Gets | 5c/17 | (7B+C) | |||
| O.a | Six Moths | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: R. Halsey 2018 | A trad route at a sport crag, so written up for sake of completion. Climb the undercut start of the small butress to the left of Vlad. Follow easier ground, on a wide diagonal, to some tricky moves at the left end of the overlap at the top. Move right to anchors of Vlad. | |
| P1 | Vlad the Impaler | 6a+/19 | ||||
| P2 | Snake Tales (Vlad the Impaler- variation) | ±6b/20 (Grade consensus required) | FA: C. Tooze 24/03/2019 | Follow the bolts through the chimney | ||
| P3 | Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book) | (3B+C) | FA: M. Gowans 2009 | |||
| Q | Wet Dreams | 6a+/19 |
Ryan on Snake Tales (Vlad the Impaler variation)
8 Mile Ledge: (Half way up Wet Dreams, traverse to the ledge on left)
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Chris Kirkpatrick | 6b/21 | (6B+C) | |||
| 2 | Two Trailer Park Girls | 6b+/22 | (5B+C) | |||
| 3 | Oh, There Goes Gravity | 6c/23 | (7B+C) | |||
| 4 | Oh, There Goes Gravity-direct | 25 | (7B+C) |
Dream House
- 1-In Your Dreams **** (17/5c) [13B+C] FA: B. Watts 24/10/2018 ***Note: Route is 25m
- 2-Thick Cream *** (17/5c) [10B+C] FA: C. Tooze 05/10/2018
The Out House
- Rasputin (20) FA: R. Behne, S. Larsen, A. Kotze 2006
- Sun's out Guns out (22) FA: C. Tooze 02/09/2017
1-2 grades harder if you are short
The Dump Houz
- Second Chance (15) FA: H. Krugmann 16/9/2018, Bolted by C. Tooze and H. Krugmann
- Dumpster (20) FA: C. Tooze 28/04/2018
The Pump House
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION | |
| 1 | Reset the Brakes | 18 | S. Kruger, D. Hart 2003 | ||||
| 2 | Spitfire | 23 | S. Kruger, D. Hart 2003 | ||||
| 3 | In Your Face | 22 | S. Kruger, D. Hart 2003 | ||||
| 4 | London's Burning | 7a (grade consensus needed) | J. Samson 2009 | ||||
| 5 | Cursed | 19 | S. Kruger, D. Hart 2003 | ||||
| 6 | Piglet Garden | 17 | K. Cousins 2003 | ||||
| 7 | Snitch | 18 | S. Kruger, D. Hart 2003 |
Halfway House
- Halfway House (16) FA: C. Tooze 04/02/2019 (Walk 20-30m beyond 'The Pump House')
Blaze of Glory
Routes from L to R
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Promise of Light | 6b+/22 | 15m | 15m | ||
| 2 | Terminal Velocity | 6b+/22 | 15m | 15m | ||
| 3 | Drop Zone | 6a/19 | 15m | 15m | ||
| 4 | Wake-Up Call | 6b/21 | 16m | 16m | ||
| 5 | Bad Medicine | 6b/21 | 16m | 16m | ||
| 6 | Blaze of Glory | 6b+/22 | 15m | 15m | ||
| 7 | Dead Wing Starling | 4+/15 | 14m | 14m | ||
| 8 | Hairless Mexican | 4+/15 | 14m | 14m |
Silvermine Main Crag
Routes From left to right:
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Mind the Gap | 21 | 12 bolts | *** | Scott Miller, March 2005 | |
| 2 | Argent | 16 | *** | Richard Behne | ||
| 3 | Argentum | 19 | *** | Richard Behne | ||
| 4 | Jono Gordon's Route | 22 | **** | Jono Gordon | This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund | |
| 5 | Mercury | 25 | **** | Richard Behne | This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund | |
| 6 | Pistolero | 20 | **** | Patrick McCann | ||
| 7 | Josie Get Your Gun | 21 | **** | Patrick McCann | Hard if you're short | |
| 8 | Cool Hand Luke | 18 | *** | Patrick McCann | ||
| 9 | Male Country | 24 | ** | Jayson Orton | ||
| 10 | No Man's Land | 25 | **** | John Alexander | ||
| 11 | Sterling Silver | 22 | ***** | John Alexander | A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund | |
| 12 | Revealyomango | 20 | *** | Tony Lourens | ||
| 13 | Trainspotting | 28 | **** | Guy Holwill | ||
| 14 | Silver Streak | 26 | **** | Paul Schlodfeldt | ||
| 15 | Dragonfly | 26 | ** | Mike Roberts | ||
| 16 | Trance Dance | 25? | **** | Malcolm Gowans | A key hold broke off below the roof; suggested new grade 25 | |
| 17 | Kirika | 23 | *** | Greg Hart 2006 | The grey streaks |
Photos
Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke
Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies
Silverminor Crag
Access to Silverminor is from the Main Crag:
- From the open terrace between 'Cool Hand Luke' and 'No Man's Land', step down and follow the vague path down and left along a ledge, to access the routes.
Routes
From left to right:
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Trite quicky | 19 | Malcolm Gowans March 2012. | |||
| 2 | Souldery bart | 18 | Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012 | |||
| 3 | Tad ho | 23 | Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012 | |||
| 4 | Mong love | 17 | Malcolm Gowans March 2012 | |||
| 5 | Gunnet | 23 | Malcolm Gowans August 2013 | |||
| 6 | Giden hem | 23 | Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012 |
Photos
Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans
Fawlty Towers
Fawlty Towers crag at Silvermine has 22 routes with grades ranging from 16 to 27. The crag was originally developed in 1997 by Guy Hollwill and Robyn Hollwill. When Robyn opened Lord Melbury 25, it was one of the harder routes opened by a woman in SA.
To get to Fawlty Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag. From left to right:
From left to right:
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1 | Moose's Head | 23 | Guy Holwill | |||
| 2 | The Psychiatrist | 22 | Jason Temple-Forbes | |||
| 3 | Corked | 19 | Jayson Orton | |||
| 4 | Duck Surprise | 20 | Tony Lourens | |||
| 5 | Communication Breakdown | 23 | Jayson Orton | |||
| 6 | Lemonade | 16 | (9 bolts) | Tyrone Chan, March 2005 | ||
| 7 | Playin' Hookie | 16 | (9 bolts) | Scott Miller, March 2005 | ||
| 8 | Sthpoonz | 20 | Jayson Orton | |||
| 9 | Waldorf Salad | 18 | Robyn Holwill | (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22) | ||
| 10 | Brahm's Third Racket | 26 | Guy Holwill | |||
| 11 | Basil the Rat | 23 | Jayson Orton | |||
| 12 | Toreador of Torquay | 21 | Patrick McCann | |||
| 13 | name? | 21/22 | It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling. | |||
| 14 | False Alarm | 26 | Jayson Orton | |||
| 15 | Don't Mention the War | 26 | Guy Holwill | |||
| 16 | Fire Alarm | 23 | (7 bolts) | Scott Miller February 2005 | ||
| 17 | The Germans | 27 | Guy Holwill | |||
| 18 | Bravest Orangutan in Britain | 22 | Gordon Forbes | |||
| 19 | Not Yet Major | 25 | Guy Holwill | |||
| 20 | Lord Melbury | 25 | Robyn Holwill | |||
| 21 | Boff | 23 | Jason Temple-Forbes | |||
| 22 | Poff | 21 | Jayson Orton | (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag) |
Climbing at Fawlty Towers
Battling the undercling on Lord Melbury
