|Climbing Type||Trad, Big wall|
The new Slanghoek guide is available here:
The information below regarding access from the bottom not longer applies (as at Feb 2023), but it has not been deleted in case the situation returns to as it was.
A Private Universe
The original RD is here: A Private Universe.
In early 2015 the route was climbed by Gosia Lipinska and Douw Steyn and separately by Richard Halsey, Uwe Pitsch, and Warren Gans. We used the original RD plus updated RDs provided by others who had also climbed the route. We subsequently combined these sources with our own additional notes into our updated description which is here: File:Private Universe RD Jan 2015.pdf
A PRIVATE UNIVERSE (TEODOR’S BETA)
ACCESS: Phone numbers of importance:
Dawie (Farm worker he will be the guy to open up for you and meet you on the morning of arrival) 0814096865
Lizelle (She is the main boss lady and all arrangements must be done with her ﬁrst) Email: email@example.com Email: maraiswines.co.za 0823701486
All members entering the area to rock climb, recce hike etc. must ﬁll in the indemnity emailed to you by Lizelle. As well all members must present a copy of ID or Drivers Licence, car registration of vehicle entering & residential address sent in email form to Lizelle.Once arranged with Lizelle then you will be put into contact with Dawie to arrange time of meeting in the morning.
===Approach: === 1.5hr drive from Cape TownThe farm named ‘BLAARFONTEIN’ entrance is the following GPS (-33.6460673, 19.2277835)
As you enter the farm ask Dawie for some rough directions on how to reach the narrow kloof. But in general you will follow dirt roads towards a small collection of farm houses. Eventually opening a gate to continue on rough terrain a 4x4 is best for this part. Drive as far up the dirt road as possible before it gets dangerously rocky, before the start of the hiking. There is a concrete pipeline running into the river here. -Park the car along the dirt on 4x4 trail at GPS coordinate (-33.6565779, 19.1808545)The hike is only approximately 3km.
When starting the hike STAY IN THE RIVER BED as much as possible. It gets very bushy at times so ﬁnd a way through around but always try stay in the river bed for the majority of the hike. Once reaching deeper into the kloof when the walls become steeper there is a point at which the river makes signiﬁcant fork take the obvious left fork towards the narrow canyon where Slanghoek is located.The last water reﬁll point will be at the ﬁxed rope running down a waterfall face. No need to carry any water up until this point you can ﬁll up all you will need here. Finally the crossing of the giant scree slope take care on the loose boulders a man trapped himself under one a few years back. Keep eyes on the right of the amphitheater to ﬁnd the obvious pillar against the wall where pitch 1 starts by scrambling up on top of it.
Descending the mountain:
My recommendation is walking off the back to Bains Kloof area ideally. Reasoning, it’s safe, it can be done in the dark, there is a path & there is water. Arrange a key from MCSA to enter the reserves gate, a pick up car can be driven a few kilometres closer to the trail head, to shorten the walk out. Once again a 4x4 is recommended. The hike will take approximately 3hrs brisk walking. Beta: You top out of ‘A Private Universe’ at the following GPS (-33.6734142, 19.1733306).As you arrive on top walk down and rightwards towards a obvious valley with river. There is a well cairned pathway to follow once you have reached further down the valley you will ﬁnd the path runs parallel to the ‘WITRIVIER’ Follow this path all the way to the top of Bains Kloof pass.I recommend to download an app (Maps.Me) this app has the hiking trail you will follow to exit to Bains Kloof it helps a lot in the dark to ﬁnd the path.The start of the 4x4 track along which to leave the vehicle (or pick up) on the exit trail. GPS (-33.6237331, 19.0973423)Finally Dawie likes 5 year KWV as a gift & old school muscle cars ask him to show you his 1960’s baby. ;)