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* 22 Sept 2020 Update -- Please Note:
 
Nesting has not been successful this season. The Bronkies crag is open for all climbs from 1 Oct 2020.
 
There are two nest sites on Bronkies. The original historical site is between "Perch on this" and "Devils Concubine". An alternate nest is between "Joint Venture" and "Wild Apricot". Please heed the No Climbing closed area restrictions between the demarcated signs between 1 April and 1 Oct.
 
See this forum thread for uptodate details --> http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76306&t=18659
 
[[Image:Bronkies_rightside.JPG]]
 
A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.
Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 R40 for adults* R10 R20 for school going children above 12 years old* R5 R10 for children 12 years of age and below
Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.
* No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though)
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)- clear signs are in place.
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains. First ascent: 2002 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
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|Significant Pickle ||18 ||6D,A||.|| Climbs the shallow corner/arête system just left of Ranger's Delight. Top crux is a little lead out. First ascent: 2015-12-20 Tony Seebregts and Bridgette Kerst
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|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
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|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16. This route is bolted with U-Bolts. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and N. Margetts.
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|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
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|Pom-Pom Dominatrix||20||6D,A|||| Takes the open book just right of No More Freeloaders and continues over the bulge at the top on to a small slab. It is possible to duck left at the top into a jam crack to avoid the crux (Pom-Pom option,17). 2013-06-01, Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed, Jaco Smuts.
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|Modern Warfare||21*||.||.||Very short and bouldery. Try stay strate in line with the bolts. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.
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|Autonomous Caudal||14 ||4D,A||10m||Takes the pretty open book 3m to the right of Fully. Short and cute. First ascent:2016 Bridgette Kerst and Tony Seebregts.
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|Fully||12 **||.||.||First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
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|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!! First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
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|Pumba's Delight||12 *||.||.||Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
|-
|Trans-Plutionian Panic Zone||20||8D,A|| ||Climbs the shallow corner just left of Mini Me, and then up through the rooflet and finger crack above. Bolted: 2016 Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed and Bridgette Kerst.|-|Rastus||18 *||.||.||.One move wonder through the roof. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and D. Taylor.
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|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
|-
|Monkonunkey||14||.||.||.
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|The Fallen Boot||15 ****||.||.||Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
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|Tom's Cruise||17**||8D||.||FA/BB Guenther Bargon.
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start of the "Eagle Sector"
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.
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|Rat Kid||25 ****||.||.||Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.First ascent: Gary Lowther.
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|The Flying Dutchman||28 ***||10D||.||Some fun roof climbing with interesting moves. Feels like a gym climb. Bolted by and First Ascent: 2014 David Wade.
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|Black Pearl||27 ***||.||.||Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer. First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
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|The Flying Dutchman||27 ***||8D,A||.||Some fun roof climbing with interesting moves. Feels like a gym climb. Bolted by and First Ascent: 2014 David Wade.
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|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||20 ***||.||18m ||Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish. First ascent: Gunther Bargon.
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|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above. First ascent: 2007 B. Frost.
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End of the "Eagle sector"
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).First ascent: 2007 Ken Thrash.
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|Bruce||22 **||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.
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|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.
|Fire Fly||24 ***||12D||.||Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête. First ascent: 2004 R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph.
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|Red Dragon||31 30 ****||13D||.||Shares the first 3 bolts of Fire Fly, then branches left up to some steep climbing. First ascent: 2013 David Wade.|-|Back in Black open project||HARD||.||.||Shares the first 3 bolts of Fire Fly, then does the dyno of red dragon and heads left through some steep terrain to join keep walking johnny at its crux and then heads left again up over a roof and along an arete and then joins black out for its last 3 bolts. once done it may be the longest route at the crag, at 28m??|-|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ****||.||.||Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring.
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|Keep Walking JohnnyBlack||27 29 ****||.||.||Starts on a crimpy face up Keep Walking Johnny, then busts out left after Johnies crux to a ledgean arete. Follow the The line then joins Black Out for its last 3 bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chainsand ends on Black Out. Nice and long and pumpy! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring2019 Wesley Black.
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|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained. Bolted By: R. Lowther. First ascent: 2004 G. Lowther.
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|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above. First ascent: 2004 G. Frost, A. Lloyd and C. Havenga.
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|Mortal Blue||25 ***||14D||.||Shares the first 4 bolts of 'Blue Suede Shoes' then continues straight up to chains with an interesting crux. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2014 David Wade.
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|The Silence Of The Lambs||25 *****||15D||.||A new classic. Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
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! colspan="5" style="background|Barbarians||24 ****||15D||.||Sustained difficulty moves from bottom to top. Bolted By and First Ascent:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest2014 David Wade.
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|Lycan||25||?D||.||Sustained powerful endurance line. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2019 Paul Bruyere.|-! colspan="5" alignstyle="Leftbackground:yellow;"|A no-bolting policy is in place in the area either side Start of the Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles) nest. Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting. "Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010):Sector"We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter.We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non breeding season to limit disturbance.|-We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the area, and if at all posible, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have a relationship with eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc|Perch on this||27||.Any help on these matters would be appreciated||.||First ascent: 2016 Andrew Pedley|-Walter NESER, Vulpro, http://www|Pew pew pew||26||.vultureconservation||.co.za||Bolted by: Alex Bester, emailFirst ascent: wneser at gmail dot com"2016 Wesley Black|-Quote from Neil Smith: The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August|Big City Life||23 *****||?D||. ||The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside obvious crack line right of that there should be no problemthe roof area/nests. You will need to decide Opened on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimumtrad. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous birdFirst ascent: 2016 Ebert Nel.  I hope that this is of some assistanceBolted by: 2019 Paul Bruyere. Regards, |-Neil SmithManager Conservation Division Birdlife South Africa Tel: (0) 11 789 1122 Fax: 0866572891 Mobile (0) 82 859 3788" Eagle update (May 2011): Walter Neser had difficulties with the red tape and authorities and that he was not able to secure a chick for 2011 (the breeding season for black Eagles is already underway so it is too late already for 2011)|Galahad||27 ||?D||. He is still hopeful that ||Powerful bouldery line through a spare chick could be placed there in 2012 (it would then fledge at around Sept 2012)scoop/roofSome stats on the Black Eagles population status in the Magaliesberg Bolted By and surroundsFirst Ascent: indications are that of the 13 odd confirmed breeding pairs of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg and immediate surrounds that was known to breed there in 1984 (David Allan) declined to just 2 in a 2004 study (Craig Whittington2019 Paul Bruyere.|-Jones)- bottom line: there are very few left|Hoffman Half Beast||26||?D||. The MCSA Magaliesberg Section has||Powerful, big moves to big jugs, via the Richard Watmough Memorial fundgate bending, commissioned an aerial survey (idog bone munching line through a scoop/roof.e. micro lights) of the Magaliesberg to confirm the population status of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg area. The results are not yet availableBolted By and First Ascent: 2019 Matthew Hoffman
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! colspan="5" style="background|Invisible Sky||25***||8D+A||.||25m Start 3m to the right of Paranoia. Slap, slap past the second bolt, then head up for a smoof roof moof. Bolts sponsored by MCSA. FA:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nestSarel Petrus Nov 2019
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|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22. First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
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|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple. First ascent: 2007 Ken Thrash.
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! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End of the "Eagle sector"
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||First ascent: 2007 Ken Thrash.
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|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
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|Grunter||21 ***||9D||.||Shares first two draws with Squeaker, then keeps left of it. BB Neil Margetts, FA Sarel Petrus Nov 2019.
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|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
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