Jump to navigation Jump to search
68 bytes added ,  08:41, 10 November 2015
no edit summary
Show Time starts left of centre of the main Yellowwood Amphitheatre a aBOUT 7 metres left of the start of Newborn. The first few bolts of Newborn or visible from the base of the wall and the start of Show Time is marked by a small cairn of stones adjacent to a small flat clearing used as a bivvy spot.
'''Pitch 1 50m 20'''
This pitch has two potential deck falls although the moves are not very hard. The first is stepping off the ledge to start “overhanging strenuous gnarly looking crack” and the second is starting up the left facing corner past the “thin flake plastered against the wall”.
 Move to left end of the ledge and step across the void to below a crack that can be vegetated. The crack does take good pro if cleaned. Continue up to and the then past the large overhang on its left and climb the left facing dihedral to a large ledge on the right. Climb the overhanging strenuous gnarly looking crack for about 10m to a ledge system. Move left 2m and climb the left facing corner starting at a thin flake plastered against the wall on the left. Continue easily up the orange left facing corner to the grey overhang and pass it on the right. Semi-circle up and right to avoid the very steep crack in the white rock (climb it if you are bold and strong). Head easily up and left to a right facing corner system on yellow rock topped by a robust bush to a stance. With 50m ropes, stance 5m lower on a decent ledge, then scramble up the corner system to start of pitch 3.
'''Pitch 3 20m 23'''
(Don’t be tempted to combine pitch 3 with any part of pitch 4unless you have done it before. It will be very tiring and you may run out of gear, communication and end up in a crappy hanging stance anyway!)  
Strenuous climbing past an inverted 1” cam placement and a fixed nut brings you to a juggy rest. (The nut marks the way). Continue up to the overhang and the move right on the gnarly rock to pass the roof on the right. Continue up a few meters to a hanging stance under the overhang.
If you are lucky and you manage to work out the best way to climb this pitch, then it is probably only grade 23. However the on-sight sans beta is probably closer to 26 if you get anything wrong. This pitch is a brutal beast and has yet to be done on-sight free as at 29 March 2015. It is extremely challenging for short people and has two very difficult cruxes.
Climb the left facing corner to the overhang. Step right onto the arête and clip the fixed wire if you wish. Continue up past the small overhang to easier ground. Continue straight up for 4m or so and then move left about 3m. Do not climb the obvious white recesses but climb the grey rock bulge between them ! directly above the bomber rock 1 placement (only grade 19) to a large rail under the overhang. You can place a large cam on the right to protect your second but the rail generally is at least size 4.5 Camelot. Rail all the way left easily to the grotty corner and climb it. Or keep moving left on a clean rail to circumvent it. Climb up to the (halfway) ledge and clip a bolt left there by some Spanish climbers and stance right there so you can see your second. If you did not find pro in the large rail for your second then move all the way back right to stance above that point so your second is protected with a more vertical rope. (Sounds complicated but will be evident when you are there.)
'''Pitch 5 23 24 35m'''
Lie back the gray flake on the left and continue up the brittle recess until the holds run out. (There is good pro but the holds seem very dodgy). Step out left on to the arête on good rock and continue to the small overhang. Compose yourself on good holds. Continue straight up if you are bold and strong or move left 3m and climb the crack into a shallow recess past a “nice-to-have” thread that is in situ. Continue up about 10m and rail right to a good ledge.
Pitch 8 40m 19'''
Climb up to the overhang past the right side and then up easy blocky climbing to a rail system. Move right about 10m and avoid the first left facing yellow-orange recess. Continue to the next grey one and climbup climb up it. Head easily diagonally up left to a grey overhanging crack and crank through this to top out.
Enjoy the view.
50m ropes are fine for this route but be careful on the second abseil if you use the Timerity Rap Route. Tie knots on Do not miss the end of abseil point at 35m as the rope next one is 15m below and use the extension to be saferopes may not reach.
Doubles on cams to 1,5 inch is recommended. Single set nuts to size 10 or 12. . 4 QD’s 10 Slings or 8 Slings and one very long sling is useful. No RP’s required. No 4.5 Camelot is useful but not essential.


Navigation menu