Changes

Jump to navigation Jump to search
420 bytes removed ,  11:02, 17 November 2020
m
no edit summary
* 22 Sept 2020 Update -- Please Note:
 
Nesting has not been successful this season. The Bronkies crag is open for all climbs from 1 Oct 2020.
 
There are two nest sites on Bronkies. The original historical site is between "Perch on this" and "Devils Concubine". An alternate nest is between "Joint Venture" and "Wild Apricot". Please heed the No Climbing closed area restrictions between the demarcated signs between 1 April and 1 Oct.
 
See this forum thread for uptodate details --> http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76306&t=18659
 
[[Image:Bronkies_rightside.JPG]]
Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 R40 for adults* R10 R20 for school going children above 12 years old* R5 R10 for children 12 years of age and below
Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.
* No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though)
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)- clear signs are in place.
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
|-
|Modern Warfare||21*||.||.||Very short and bouldery. Try stay strate in line with the bolts. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.
|-
|Autonomous Caudal||14 ||4D,A||10m||Takes the pretty open book 3m to the right of Fully. Short and cute. First ascent:2016 Bridgette Kerst and Tony Seebregts.
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!! First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
|-
|Pumba's Delight||12 *||.||.||Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
|-
|Trans-Plutionian Panic Zone||20||.8D,A||.||Climbs the shallow corner just left of Mini Me, and then up through the rooflet and finger crack above. Bolted: 2016 Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed and Bridgette Kerst.
|-
|Rastus||18 *||.||.||One move wonder through the roof. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and D. Taylor.
|-
|Tom's Cruise||17**||8D||.||FA/BB Guenther Bargon.
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start of the "Eagle Sector"
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.
|Rat Kid||25 ****||.||.||Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.First ascent: Gary Lowther.
|-
|The Flying Dutchman||27 28 ***||10D||.||Some fun roof climbing with interesting moves. Feels like a gym climb. Bolted by and First Ascent: 2014 David Wade.
|-
|Black Pearl||27 ***||.||.||Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer. First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above. First ascent: 2007 B. Frost.
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End of the "Eagle sector"
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
|Red Dragon||30 ****||13D||.||Shares the first 3 bolts of Fire Fly, then branches left up to some steep climbing. First ascent: 2013 David Wade.
|-
|Back in Black open project||HARD||.||.||Shares the first 3 bolts of Fire Fly, then does the dyno of red dragon and heads left through some steep terrain to join keep walking johnny at its crux and then heads left again up over a roof and along an arete and then joins black out for its last 3 bolts. once done it may be the longest route at the crag, at 28m??|-|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ****||.||.||Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring.|-|Johnny Black||29 ****||.||.||Starts on Keep Walking Johnny, then busts out left after Johnies crux to an arete. The line then joins Black Out for its last 3 bolts and ends on Black Out. First ascent: 2019 Wesley Black.
|-
|Black Out||27 ****||.||.||Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained. Bolted By: R. Lowther. First ascent: 2004 G. Lowther.
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above. First ascent: 2004 G. Frost, A. Lloyd and C. Havenga.
|Barbarians||24 ****||15D||.||Sustained difficulty moves from bottom to top. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2014 David Wade.
|-
|Lycan||25||?D||.||Sustained powerful endurance line. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2019 Paul Bruyere.|-! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start of the "No boltingEagle Sector" |-|Perch on this||27||.||.||First ascent: 2016 Andrew Pedley|-|Pew pew pew||26||.||.||Bolted by: Alex Bester, First ascent: 2016 Wesley Black|-|Big City Life||23 *****||?D||.||The obvious crack line - Eagle nestright of the roof area/nests. Opened on trad. First ascent: 2016 Ebert Nel. Bolted by: 2019 Paul Bruyere.
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|A no-bolting policy is in place in the area either side of the Verreaux's Eagles (a.kGalahad||27 ||?D||.||Powerful bouldery line through ascoop/roof. Black Eagles) nestBolted By and First Ascent: 2019 Paul Bruyere. Queries on the no|-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting. Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010):"We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter|Hoffman Half Beast||26||?D||.We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area||Powerful, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non breeding season big moves to limit disturbance.We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the areabig jugs, and if at all posiblegate bending, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have dog bone munching line through a relationship with eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc.Any help on these matters would be appreciated. Walter NESER, Vulpro, http:scoop//www.vultureconservation.co.za, email: wneser at gmail dot com" Quote from Neil Smith: The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problemroof. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds Bolted By and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.  I hope that this is of some assistance. Regards, Neil SmithManager Conservation Division Birdlife South Africa Tel: (0) 11 789 1122 FaxFirst Ascent: 0866572891 Mobile (0) 82 859 3788" Eagle update (May 2011): Walter Neser had difficulties with the red tape and authorities and that he was not able to secure a chick for 2011 (the breeding season for black Eagles is already underway so it is too late already for 2011). He is still hopeful that a spare chick could be placed there in 2012 (it would then fledge at around Sept 2012)2019 Matthew HoffmanSome stats on the Black Eagles population status in the Magaliesberg and surrounds: indications are that of the 13 odd confirmed breeding pairs of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg and immediate surrounds that was known to breed there in 1984 (David Allan) declined to just 2 in a 2004 study (Craig Whittington-Jones)- bottom line: there are very few left. The MCSA Magaliesberg Section has, via the Richard Watmough Memorial fund, commissioned an aerial survey (i.e. micro lights) of the Magaliesberg to confirm the population status of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg area. The results are not yet available. 
|-
! colspan="5" style="background|Invisible Sky||25***||8D+A||.||25m Start 3m to the right of Paranoia. Slap, slap past the second bolt, then head up for a smoof roof moof. Bolts sponsored by MCSA. FA:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nestSarel Petrus Nov 2019
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22. First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple. First ascent: 2007 Ken Thrash.
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End of the "Eagle sector"
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||First ascent: 2007 Ken Thrash.
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
|-
|Grunter||21 ***||9D||.||Shares first two draws with Squeaker, then keeps left of it. BB Neil Margetts, FA Sarel Petrus Nov 2019.
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
2

edits

Navigation menu