| Area = Waterval Boven
Waterval Boven – ‘Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media. It has become famous for its good selection of great quality routes (over
900 of them!) of all grades that are easily accessible.
PLANETARY ALIGNMENT 23 **** [13D, A] Climbs the "hidden" line just right of WORLDS APART. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016.
==God-No Wall, Wonderland==
GEM SQUASH 22 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
BUTTERNUT 21 *** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least an 80m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope with stretch will be only just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA
AGORAPHOBIA 24 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it
18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.
LEG-O 23 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
BINNETS AND BB'S 20 ** [7D,A] Scramble up the roots just left of the RODAN tree onto a ledge, then up left-ish for some real climbing. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2017
Alien 25 *** (8D,A) Starts about 20 meters left of Cactus palace (just around the corner). FA Evan Margetts. Bolts kindly Sponsored by the MCSA
DOUBLE EXPOSURE 21 *** [15D,A] Starts on the far left of the crag in the bushes and traverses right on easy ground with great views over the canopy of trees. Extend (double up) the first 4 draws to minimise drag on the headwall. Clean this route by back-cleaning on toprope only! An interesting adventure... FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Philippe Grandremy 2017
SUSPENSION TRAUMA 24 *** [14D,A] Situated 15m left of the drip up a slightly overhanging face. Sadly some TV sized blocks took out a tree and some bushes at the base. Otherwise it has wild moments and good preparation for those wanting to go full animal. FA: Philippe Grandremy and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
THUNDERSTUCK 22 *** [10D,A] Start steep under the overhang left of Miss Mac. FA: Mel and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [ 12D,A] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and re- opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.
==The Mayhem Crags==
===Animal Farm Sector===
This is the first crag past the waterfall facing NW on the opposite (to the mayhem) side of the valley. It is sunny except early morning, evening and cloudy days;).
Currently only one line here:
THIRD TIME LUCKY
23 *** Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing. Bolted by Allister Fenton and Chris O'Donovan. FA Chris O'Donovan, March 2015.
===Burning Man Walls===
SUPERVIXEN 17 *** [7D+A] Climbs the crack system 8m right of a big block. This climb is found where the path rises to an enchanting platform. BB and FA: Liz Makovini, April 2018.
CONTRABAND 23 *** [6D+A] Arête on the right side of the obvious pillar. A technical fun fest. FA: Ryan McCallum, April 2018. Bolts donated by MCSA.