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| Area = Waterval Boven
Waterval Boven – ‘Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media. It has become famous for its good selection of great quality routes (over 900 1000 of them!) of all grades that are easily accessible.
==Restaurant Crag==
Please note that the best access to the Restaurant crags (and Gaper, Gym, Triple Tier) is to park at Tegwaan Country Getaway ( When you drive out of the main road of Boven heading to Tranquilitas, turn left after 2,5km into Tegwaan. This is 4,5km from the Tranquilitas Camp on your right. Drive straight towards the main houses (close the farm gate behind you) and park by the sign that says "Parking". Walk straight over the dirt track onto a hiking trail past some dams and follow signs for the "Stone Circle Trail". Along the trail, go over a T-juction onto a Y-split about 30m further. Take the left split and follow your nose towards the crags. Close to the little gorge where a small crag called The Gym is found, there is another Y-split in the path. The left trail goes to the Gym and Restaurant/Gaper areas. The right split goes to Triple Tier. Enjoy.
PLANETARY ALIGNMENT 23 **** [13D, A] Climbs the "hidden" line just right of WORLDS APART. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016.
==God-No Wall, Wonderland==
SLIPPERY WHEN WET 17 *** [Trad] - A great long crack climb to the right of SWEET PLUMB. Start same as for SWEET PLUMB (dont clip those bolts) up the crack to the excrement. Instead of going left up SWEET PLUMB, stick right and climb the rib up to the ledge that shares chains with THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES. Climb the corner crack to the cubby hole/chimney. Top out and walk down the gulley. Take a standard rack supplemented with doubles/tripples of #2/#3 BD cams. Gear is excellent! FA: Kieran Richards and Allister Fenton, April 2019
HAKUNA MATATA 27 ** [14D,A] Climbs the corner just right of a proud and steep knife edge 10m right of AFRICAN RAIN. Slightly lead out but safe climbing slightly spoiled by a halfway ledge. You need a 70m rope for this cruxy cruise. FA: Jens Richter 2015
GEM SQUASH 22 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
BUTTERNUT 21 *** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least an 80m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope with stretch will be only just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA
AGORAPHOBIA 24 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 19 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.
LEG-O 23 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
HAPPY ENDING 25 **** [17D,A] Climb the line just right of TOOLBOX. Three bolts onto a large terrace. Straight up from here tending slightly left and crossing over TOOLBOX halfway up. Crazy beautiful after the ledge. FA: Marius and Philippe Gaboriaud
BINNETS AND BB'S 20 ** [7D,A] Scramble up the roots just left of the RODAN tree onto a ledge, then up left-ish for some real climbing. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2017
==Superbowl, Wonderland==
Alien ALIEN 25 *** (8D,A) Starts about 20 meters left of Cactus palace (just around the corner). FA Evan Margetts. Bolts kindly Sponsored by the MCSA
DOUBLE EXPOSURE 21 *** [15D,A] Starts on the far left of the crag in the bushes and traverses right on easy ground with great views over the canopy of trees. The first bolt can be clipped into so that you belay from the little ledge 2m up. Extend (double up) the first 4 draws to minimise drag on the headwall. Use a short draw after the traverse before tackling the headwall. Clean this route by back-cleaning on toprope only! An interesting adventure... FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Philippe Grandremy 2017
SUSPENSION TRAUMA 24 *** [14D,A] Situated 15m left of the drip up a slightly overhanging face. Sadly some TV sized blocks took out a tree and some bushes at the base. Otherwise it has wild moments and good preparation for those wanting to go full animal. FA: Philippe Grandremy and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
THUNDERSTUCK 22 *** [10D,A] Start steep under the overhang left of Miss Mac. FA: Mel and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
THE ORANGE ONE ON THE RIGHT BY THE ABLUTIONS 23 *** [14D,A] Climb Glen for 8 draws onto the ledge, then blast straight up! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2019
==Left Wing==
SKELMPOES 22 *** [8D] Climb the arête but mostly stay on the pretty face right of Herman the German. Avoid fondling the jugs of the neighbour around the corner and enjoy the secret crack! FA: Tony dos Ramos BB: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2019
Green Machine 18 *** [D] Start up the crack near the arête left of True Blue. A puzzling crux leads to an easier slab. FA: Thulani Mazibuko 2018 BB: Clive Curson 2018
True Blue 15 ** [12D] Takes the red corner about 25 - 30m R of the descent gully. FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 BB: Clive Curson 2018
Red Under the Bed 9 *** [8/12D] The alpine arête between True Blue and Wysiwyg, starting just left of and below Mellow Yellow - smaller Ubolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here or continue up to the Mellow Yellow anchors FA: 2018 BB: Clive Curson
Mellow Yellow 10 *** [10D] The face just left of the Wysiwyg corner, via a sickle feature about 5m up. FA: Clive Curson 2018
WYSIWYG 12 *** [11D] Climbs the obvious corner to the left of the large stacked roofs, 5m R of True Blue. Watch the blocks near the top FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 BB: Clive Curson 2018
CHACMA **** 22 [13D] Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
LO AND BEHOLD 19 **** [12D] Starts between two trees. Looks way too steep and blank for this grade, but be assured that excellent holds appear - especially just after the crux, where there seems to be a bit of a runout. Climb 5m right of New York Chocolate Fudge, at a fig tree. When the going gets tough, just keep cranking! FA: Clive Curson & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS 19 *** [11D???] The shallow corner. Route has been retro-bolted. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1991 Clive Curson 2018
==The Theatre==
BIG SHUT UP AND DIE LIKE AN AVIATOR 16 **** [14D] Have a safe flight - now bolted. Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. FA: Mike Hislop 1992 (trad) BB: Clive Curson 2018 G-STRING IN JAPAN 30 G-MINOR 22 **** [12D,A13D] The line of bolts Starts 2m left of Kindred Spiritsthe Euphorbia (Naboom), using the cracks to clear the bulge. This line has Cross left over AVIATOR at a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by third way up at the bolts being chopped by shared ledge using hangers. Then it is all the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and rebusiness trying to keep your G-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.string clean! FA: Gustav & Mel Janse van Rensburg 2018
STAGE FRIGHT 19 *** [16D] Not so scary now with bolts. Starting 5m left of the CS corner, go up and somewhat left to the arete. Follow this to anchors. FA: Clive Curson 1992 BB: Clive Curson 2018
2b or not 2b 14 **** [12D] A fairly moderate way to the highest ledge (80% up) in the middle of this impressive amphitheatre. Starting 3m left of Centre Stage, go up to the diagonal break leading back to the main corner. Last move to the lower anchors is the crux. Extend draws in the mis-section. FA: Arielle & Talia Behr 2018.
CENTRE STAGE 18 *** [15D] Takes the main corner. Avoid the weird looking pillar on your left low down. Crux layback at the top. FA: Clive Curson 1992
BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [14D] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was re-bolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.
==The Mayhem Crags==
===Animal Farm Sector===
This is the first crag past the waterfall facing NW on the opposite (to the mayhem) side of the valley.It starts from the largest descent gully with the pillar and runs right to the waterfall. It is sunny except early morning, evening and cloudy days;). Corners are in shade from 2:30 in summer. You can access the crag via the large pillar descent gully on the left, or via the descent gully right of "the platform" using the corridor entrance halfway down the gully.
Currently only one line hereLines from Left to right:
BROWN TOWN 19 **** - [Trad] Corner crack situated at the bottom of the pillar gully, just before 2m high roof. Kick things off by trust falling across the gap between the pedestal and wall to gain access to the corner crack. Bust through a small roof and continue up the widening crack to the top. Lekker climbing with good protection throughout! FA: Ryan McCallum September 2020. ZUNGUZUNGUGUZUNGGUZENG 14 ** - [Trad] Starts around the corner from BROWN TOWN, climb the obvious ledgey corner to the top. Was not cleaned, no loose rock but a fair amount of grass. FA Kieran Richards, Ryan McCallum, Ale Barerio, September 2020. CHIKAMASA 22 ***** - [Trad] Starts in a right facing corner 50m left of the corridor gully. Climb the thin fingertips corner to a good stem rest at a cubby. Climb the corner above to the small roof, jug haul through the roof and all the way to the top! Extremely fun climbing and good protection all the way! Cleaned and ready for action! FA: Kieran Richards, September 2020  BOXER'S CRUEL DEATH 14 - [Trad] 4m right of Chikamasa. Climb the jagged wide crack past the tree on one's right and up to a cubby capped by a small roof. Beware of the razor edge on your rope and runners. Top out and anchor on a shrub in the veld. FA Ale Bareiro September 2020.  ANIMAL FARM BECOMES MANNER FARM 17 - [Trad]Approximately 14m after exiting the  passageway, in a corner guarded by an outhouse sized block is a clean, consistent, right facing corner crack. FA Ale Bareiro, Ryan McCallum, Kieran Richards September 2020.  THIRD TIME LUCKY 23 *** Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing. Bolted by Allister Fenton and Chris O'Donovan. FA Chris O'Donovan, March 2015.
===Burning Man Walls===
SUPERVIXEN 17 *** [7D+A] Climbs the crack system 8m right of a big block. This climb is found where the path rises to an enchanting platform. BB and FA: Liz Makovini, April 2018.
YOU MOSS BE CRAZY 16 *** [Trad] Half way between "Supervixen" and "Surrender your Innocence" is a series of vertical cracks and blocky steps covered in moss. Start by climbing the large crack on the right briefly until it becomes too wide. Traverse left 2m and climb up to top out left of a small vegetated gully. Anchor on boulders quite far back but belay closer to the edge as comms is an issue. Beware of loose blocks! FA: S. Hoffe, M. Smith & M. Donahue, Sep 2018
CONTRABAND 23 **** [6D+A] Arête on the right side of the obvious pillar. A technical fun fest. FA: Ryan McCallum, April 2018. Bolts donated by MCSA.


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