Single and multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane. Thabaphaswa offers a great number of climbs at two Main Granite Outcrops: 1. KANNIEDOOD CRAG with 15 single climbs and 2 multi -pitch climbs; and 2. THABAPHASWA MOUNTAIN WITH THREE CRAGS. There is at this stage one 150 meter multi-pitch on one of these crags but there is the potential to bolt many other climbs on these three crags. Plans are underway for this to be done. Take plenty of water for you and your dog while hiking to the crag.
Mainly Autumn & Winter(April till August), but also Spring & Summer (Cloudy days are best!) Cloudy and cool weather there is no bugs or black flies(miggies)
Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle. Harder climbs are more vertical. Be aware of loose flakes. Wear climbing helmets while climbing and belaying.
Sport Rack for single pitch and multi pitch needed & Abseiling at some points need 70 m rope. Trad Climbing is optional. No routes yet!
Food, accommodation and other activities
Contact Deon Richter of Thabaphaswa Mountain Sanctuary, in his own words: "Nguni and PinZ2yl Cattle Breeder / Hen-pecked Husband / Grand Dad / Oupa Plaas and Owner."
Landline Tel: 015 491 4882
Cellphone/WhatsApp: 082 389 6631 (Whatsapp & Email is preferable)
A day visitor fee is applicable if not staying at the sanctuary. There are various options for self catering accommodation & camping available. Hiking, mountain biking, 4x4 trails, swimming, foefiesliding, fishing.
Climbing Guide Service provided by Hermien Venter.
There is a special service available for beginner rock climbers, youth groups and foreigner visitors that require climbing gear that can be rented(daly fees) Hermien Venter knows all the climbs very well, and provides a safe guided service and climbing leader for climbers at Thabaphaswa. Hermien's services can be booked via the contact form or call/whattapp her at 084 823 8392.
Kanniedood (From left to right)
The easier climbs at Kanniedood crag can be reached by going left as you reach the bottom of the crag. Go left then right around the corner and up the hill. The climbs are close together on the easy slab on your right as you get to the top of the crag.
Just for fun *** 11R(1B,C), 12m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Johan Moelich Climb straight up to bolt, then right to Loula's chains.
Loula **** 11(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sjene Smith
Surami *** 12(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade
Lekker Likkewaan Top Rope Anchors 20m (Route can be top roped)(14/10/2018) Alot of potential to bolt new routes by using the top rope anchors, ideal for beginner climbers top roping.(Hermien Venter)
Bloustert Akkedis *** 12(2B,C), 10m (16/05/2017)BB: Hermien Venter FA: Hermien Venter
Shongololo*** 14 (Route can be top roped),(1 Bolt & Anchors) 10m, (22/07/2017) BB: Hermien Venter FA: Ruan Snyman
Skoenlapper 18/15* (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Hermien Venter. Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.
Super Cool Nifty - 21 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Straight up the face of the bulge.
Miena se Muis - 20 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Use the crack then over the top to the anchors. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)
Front climbs (On the face that you see as you approach the crag.)
Take the left path up the slab, go under the trees to get to the next 2 climbs.
Triple Town *** 17, 27m (11/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade (5 meters left of My Big Toe. Starts at the flake under the tree.)
My Big Toe **** 19, 20m (Brilliant climb)
A Little Grit 20 - 1 pitch - 4 bolts 13. July 2015 - Emilia Schönherr und Paul Grotheer, Lina Schneeweiß, Tilmann Hartmann This nice climb starts a few meters to the right of the route "My Big Toe". There are some run outs in this route. The route was done by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.
Friday 13th *** 20, 24m
Dead Ant *** 21, 19m
Yoga on the Rocks **** 23, 23m
Boned **** 21, 23m
Tu-lips *** 16, 36m
Pitch 1: 16, 16m
Pitch 2: 15, 20m
"Scorpion" *** 19, 3 pitches (2013)
Walk to right hand side of crag. The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is a variation to Scorpion and worth the try. (Variation pitch is a grade 23)
Pitch 1: 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge
Pitch 2: 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop
Pitch 3: 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)
When Abseiling and you're using 60 meter ropes, use the chains you pass as you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary. You will be caught short on a 60 meter rope.
Snail space 16***(N,A) 50m
Start around the corner from Scorpion. Climb the obvious crack for 4 meters then traverse right into a shallow corner. Continue following the crack and move under and past the bulge. Climb the off-width crack to a big platform. From the platform go left and do three well protected moves to gain the easy but runout slab. Continue up to the anchors on the second pitch of Scorpion.
FA: Sarel Petrus, Allen Laing and Christiaan Louw 12 June 2022
Whistling in the wind *** 19, 7m
Monkey See Monkey Do 15, 5.5m (2 Bolts & Anhors) (13/10/2018) BB: Hermien Venter FA: Jaco Venter.
Pitch 1: ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant's trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top
Pitch 2: ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit - worst section on this climb
Pitch 3: *** 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant's ear.
Pitch 4: *** 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top.
Pitch 5: ** 15, 10m Short easy finish.
Kanniedood Mountain Hut
Swart Mamba Anchors *** 17 Starts on the left side of the hut at the open book in the corner. There are 2 seperate anchors is on top of the bolder. Mainly used for youth abseil and top rope.
Pofadder ** 12, 17m (5 Bolts & Anchors) (22/07/2017) BB: Hermien Venter FA: Nehan Fourie Starts on the right side of the hut on the granite slope. The route moves directly up. Ideal for beginners sport climbing.