|Climbing Type||Sport, Trad, Multi-pitch|
|Season||All year round|
9km out of Montagu.
This area has sport and trad routes and there is lots of new route potential.
From Montagu, take the road towards Barrydale, after Guano Caves turnoff, approximately 1.4km's keep an eye out for a gate with a sign that (may or may not) read ‘Rock Climbing on R62’ - the gate is a farm gate (see pic).
At the gate with ‘Climbing on R62) written on it (see pic to the right). Drive in (be sure to leave the gate as you found it) and immediately turn left. Follow the road up for approximately 1km and park under the trees by the 3 old workers cottages.
From here, walk up above the houses and then right (in the direction of Montagu). Walk past the small dam on your right and around the electric fence. Walk along the fence and you will soon be on a path to the climbing area. Walk along the fence and you will soon be on a path to the climbing area.
A plastic water pipe which will lead you all the way up the mountain to the climbing - please do not step on the pipe. This will take you to The Farm climbing area.
For God Child and Awe-Struck area, follow the pipe into the kloof and stay on the path past “Pump’kin Pie”. Keep going till you can see two ropes hanging down a short slab follow the left hand rope to God Child area.
The farmer gets his DRINKING water from this river. PLEASE do EVERY THING POSSIBLE TO KEEP THE WATER CLEAN and do not stand on the pipe.
Fees & Permits
Send an email to email@example.com You will then receive an automated response with details of what to do.
Bring a 60 meter rope an 15 quickdraws.
Topo / RD Download
= Pumpkin Sector =
1. Pump’kin Pie * 21/6c+ [6B,C] H. Venter 2011
2. I Need to Wee *** 12/4a [9B,C] J. Hayden 2014 - Nice easy beginner slab.
= Main Sector =
3. Child in Time **** 19/6a+ [8B,C] T. Lourens 2012
4. Fields Of Gold **** 22/6c [10B,C] T. Lourens 2012
5. Top of the Morning ***** 20/6b [14B,C] T. Lourens 2012
6. Cross Breed ***** 22/6c [13B,C] H. Venter 2011
7. Toe Jam 18/6a (Trad)
8. Traditional Jam 17/5c (Trad)
9. Coffee Before Jam ***** 19/6a+ [9B,C] H. Venter 2011
10. Little Farm Boy *** 20/6b [9B,C] H. Venter 2011
11. Marmion Marmalade *** 16/5b [9B,C] H. Venter 2011
12. Goes Like a Tractor 15/5a (trad)
13. Reflections on Mirror Wall **** 22/6c [8B,C] H. Venter 2011
P. Project (loose rock to be cleared) 17/5c [B,C] Closed (H. Venter)
= Black Slab Sector =<br> 14. Pink is the New Black *** 16/5b [8B,C] H. Venter 2014
15. Black Sparrow *** 16/5b [9B,C] H. Venter 2014
16. Black Pearl *** 17/5c [8B,C] H. Venter 2014
17. The Flying Dutchmen *** 17/5c [8B,C] J. Hayden 2014
18. Lekker soos ’n Cracker *** 17/5c [B,C] H. Venter 2014
Pitch 1. 25m 17/5c [10B,C]
Pitch 2. 28m 16/5b [11B,C]
19. Black Flags in The *** 19/6a+ [8B,C] J. Hayden 2014
20. The Three Musketeers 17/5c (Trad)
Pitch 1: 25m 16/5b
Pitch 2: 28m 17/5c
20a. Musket Balls 22/6c(Trad) R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 2016
21. Farfallina *** 18/6a [9B,C] T. Lourens 2014
22. Long Way From Stellenbosch **** 23/6c+ [9B,C] H. Venter 2011
= Awestruck (shady side) =
23. Talk is Cheap *** 24/7a [9B,C] A. Caddy 2011
24. ’n Boer Maak ’n Plan **** 22/6c [9B,C] H. Venter 2011
25. Awestruck *** 22/6c [12B,C] H. Venter 2011
= Awestruck (sunny side) =
26. Citrus in Summertime *** 18/6a [9B,C] H. Venter 2012
27. Buff-knee the Vertical Slayer **** 22/6c [13B,C] A. Green, H. Venter 2011
= God Child Sector =
28. The God Father **** 25/7a+ [14B,C] H. Venter 2011
29. God Child ***** 22/6c [13B,C] H. Venter 2011
30. Jabba the Hut **** 31/8a+ [7B,C] C. Martinengo July 2014
31. Grip Daddy **** 22/6c [13B,C] H. Venter 2011
32. Roots 20/6b [Mixed Trad]
Descriptions: For routes not in the topo.
- Musket Balls (22) Trad
Climb the steep crack on the wall immediately left of Farfallina. After a crucial #3 Camalot a few meters up, continue up until forced right to join the arete. Continue up the arete and then step right and finish up the face to the anchors of Farfallina.
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 2016
= Trinity Slabs =
- Ascension (19) Trad ****
Gain the main ledge by climbing the first pitch of Trinity (bolted).
P1: 19 ; 32m
5m to the right of Trinity's second pitch is a diagonal crack with a large tuft of grass growing at it's top; climb the crack, step 2m left at the top into the pod and pull into a crack going diagonally right at it's top; climb the thin face from the top of the crack up to an open book stance. Small cams and nuts needed on the face - gear is specific so take care; you can escape left onto Trinity if no good placements can be made.
P2: 18 ; 15m
Climb the open book; step right and go up to the top of the blocks. Difficult to build a good stance here; place a directional and walk across to the Trinity top anchors to belay.
Abseil down Trinity 40m.
FA: Ivan Janez & Willem Boshoff (July 2016)
Above is a photo of the entrance to the farm - The climbing is in the kloof between the two yellow arrows (ignore the arrows - they are irrelevant)
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