Time Flies 23 ****

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START: The approach is the same as to the Sublime Time Buttress. Walk up the trail and enter the forest just after the scramble. Weave your way through the forest following cairns and then scramble the rib leading to Sublime Time Buttress. At the first steep rock pitch leading up to Red Waterfall Face, traverse left and belay under the clean grey corner system.

Pitch 1: 19 (75m). Climb the corner system on mostly excellent rock to a big grassy/fynbos ledge. This can be simul climbed for a few metres or split into two pitches the first pitch being 55m.

Pitch 2: 23 (35m). Carefully climb up the lichen covered corner (15) to the overlap where the thin crack starts. Climb the crack (23) with good pro to under the overhang and belay off the abseil thread and a 2inch cam back-up on the left.

Pitch 3: 21 (45m). From the belay move left and pull onto the face (23 move if you are short). Then move back left above the belay and do a tricky move to a short hand jamb crack. Up this and then diagonal up left to a ledge. Continue up the right facing corner to a juggy rail. Above you is a perfect gold cam placement! This is behind a large scary rocking loose flake that catches on top when it rocks so is difficult to dislodge and throw off. Avoid the flake by climbing up on the right. Find your way up the grey pillar to a large ledge. Walk right along the ledge to belay under the massive left facing dihedral and belay at a fixed nut abseil point.

Pitch 4: 22R (50m). Climb up a few metres directly below the dihedral and then swing right into the hidden shallow recess on the right. Climb carefully up the gorgeous rock to the base of the dihedral. Do a tricky move into the base of the dihedral and then climb the ramp up left (R). Head past the stacked overhangs and then up the orange face to the overlap (R). At the pinch move right into the dihedral proper to the main overhang above and rail out right on to a comfy ledge.

Pitch 5: 17 (25m). Step up a few metres and then traverse left under the overhang keeping low and past a dodgy looking thread and nut abseil point. Climb up the corner above to the overhang and then move out right to a small stance. Rope drag is likely to force you to belay here.

Pitch 6: 20 (20m). Climb straight up the steep rock (R) to find good gear before a cruxy move. Continue to a ledge. Combining the next pitch is not wise.

Pitch 7 21 (30m). Climb up a bit left and then back right to a fixed nut and biner abseil point at the base of the black crack. Climb the crack or move slightly right and skirt the crack to end up above it. Diagonal up left and then back right and up to a belay and abseil thread point around a bollard. Belay more comfortably on a ledge to the left.

DESCENT: Abseil the route as per the fixed points. This is somewhat scary but efficient. Otherwise head up right and then down to the Sublime Time Abseils. Another option is to go down the High Time Abseils if you know how to find them. The last abseil from the thread on pitch 2 at the end of the 23 crack takes you all the way down past the grassy/fynbos ledge to a walk off ledge system at the very end of 60m!

GEAR: Standard rack with double cams from micro to 1.5 inch. Standard sets of nuts. 12-14 slings. Take extra tat for the 1st, 3rd, and final abseil. No RP’s needed. 60m ropes! This route can be climbed with a single rope and a tag line for abseiling.

Time Flies Photo topo V4.jpg