- 1 The Tonquani Complex
- 1.1 Indemnity
- 1.2 Medical Aid Stash
- 1.3 Aspect
- 1.4 Access/Descent
- 1.5 Food Conservation
- 1.6 Camping
- 2 Route List
- 3 Problem List
The Tonquani Complex
The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) owns the Tonquai Complex. Access to non-members is restricted by permits issued by the Johannesburg section of the MCSA. This wiki is compiled from the 2013 MCSA Tonquani route guide which is the work of many helping hands. This wiki was established to update the guide actively and improve on what is currently available.
Original MCSA Route Guides:
- Upper Tonquani PDF:
- Lower Tonquani, Cedarberg and Boulder Kloof PDF:
Mountain climbing, rock climbing, abseiling and other related activities are dangerous and can lead to or cause serious injury, material loss and even death. The Mountain Club of South Africa advises you not to participate in these activities unless you are competent to do so or are under the guidance of a competent person, and unless you are using the correct equipment. This wiki serves only as an indication as to the routes that have been done before and the degree of difficulty encountered by the opening party. The degree of difficulty expressed herein is highly subjective and will vary from person to person. There is no warranty, express or implied, that these routes are safe for you to do, that you will be able to do them, that you will find and identify them correctly or that you will stay on route. You climb entirely at your own risk. While every effort has been made to ensure correctness and accuracy, the Mountain Club of South Africa accept no liability or responsibility whatsoever for any accident, injury, death or material loss arising from the use or misuse of this guide book. Please note that bolts are not placed by the MCSA, but by individual climbers some of whom are MCSA members and some of whom are not. The MCSA therefore cannot and does not check bolt placement for safety. Furthermore bolts deteriorate over time. Check the bolts yourself and try and find when they were placed and by whom before you rely on them. Bolts are not failsafe.
Medical Aid Stash
These points have been created for your benefit in case of an emergency, please respect the gear as it there to save lives, maybe even yours.
The first aid kit can be found in a well concealed cave behind a dead tree, immediately right of the start of REUNION SLAB. This is 46m upstream SHORT GULLY (which is 10m upstream of the meeting place at KITCHEN CRACK and the monkey cages). To reach the first aid dump from the meet spot, follow the river upstream beyond SHORT GULLY until able to break out to the left (steep) below THE MOKE and DONKERHOEK RECESS. Continue along the base of the crag until the cave is found. REUNION SLAB is a 60 degree slab several meters wide and about 10-15m high. Most of the bolts at the Chocolate Factory area have recently been replaced, but any other bolts are quite possibly hand drilled on lead many years ago. These old bolts should be treated with due care. Pegs should also be given due respect, and where possible, backup in the form of conventional trad gear should be placed.
The first aid dump is found at the junction of Cedarberg and Lower Tonquani Kloofs. It is on a ledge on the true left of both kloofs. It is about 6m above the stream beds. To get there from Boulder Kloof, make your way to the bottom end of Boulder Kloof, where it merges with Lower Tonquani. Turn right (downstream) and go about 50m until a kloof merges from the left – this is Cedarberg Kloof.
The longest climbs are on the Coffin Buttress +-80m (Upper Tonquani). The climbs elsewhere average 40-50m. The rock is generally excellent and water is always available.
Upper Tonquani is one of the more open kloofs. This results in it being a little warmer than most of the other Magaliesberg kloofs. It is normally best to go in summer when the rock pools become very attractive, but it is possible to climb all year round. On overcast, windy, winters days the climbing might not be as much fun as you had hoped. If you are trying to plan your day, consider the following: The climbs on the true left (GENESIS) are east facing and receive direct morning sun and afternoon shade. The climbs on the true right, downstream of the meet spot get morning shade and afternoon sun. The climbs on the DONKERHOEK FACE and many of the climbs upstream of it receive morning sun and afternoon shade.
Lower Tonquani is generally a deep narrow kloof. In the early morning and late afternoon it tends to be well shaded and will always be several degrees cooler than the surrounds. It is possible to climb all year round if you choose the sun/shade to suit your preferences, but the kloof tends to be chilly in winter.
The true left of Lower Tonquani will generally receive morning sun and afternoon shade, while the opposite is true for the true right.
Cedarberg Kloof is generally a deep narrow kloof. In the early morning and late afternoon it tends to be well shaded and will always be several degrees cooler than the surrounds. It is possible to climb all year round if you choose the sun/shade to suit your preferences, but the kloof tends to be chilly in winter.
Cedarberg Kloof runs mainly south-north. Thus, the true right is in shade in the morning and the true left is in shade in the afternoon.
Boulder Kloof is generally a deep narrow kloof. In the early morning and late afternoon it tends to be well shaded and will always be several degrees cooler than the surrounds. It is possible to climb all year round if you choose the sun/shade to suit your preferences, but the kloof tends to be chilly in winter.
Boulder Kloof gets shade on the true left in morning and shade on the true right in the afternoon.
Upper Tonquani is blessed with several descent routes as follows: For climbs downstream of REUNION, it is normal to contour into SHORT GULLY, which leads down to the meet spot. The tree at the top of HAWKS EYE provides an easy abseil point. For climbs in the CHOCOLATE FACTORY area, use HIGH GULLY, which is the route used to access Upper Tonquani from Cedarberg Kloof.
Access Cedarberg kloof from the top or via Frog Gully and descent the kloof until you enter Lower Tonquani. It is good fun to exit Lower Tonquani by walking out downstream. Plenty of wading through pools is required, so do this on a warm day. There are no convenient descents into Lower Tonquani. Either use the descent routes into Boulder Kloof, Frog Gully in Cedarberg Kloof, the abseil off BOGGLE in Cedarberg Kloof, or find a suitable abseil tree.
Enter the kloof at its upper end by the campsite. Alternatively, Frog Gully provides a rapid approach from Mountain Sanctuary Park, though this requires technical climbing skills and may be wet (deadly).
If you want to descend into the kloof from the true left, either descend via FROG GULLY which is very steep and can be rather dangerous, especially if wet, or at the upper end near the campsite. If you want to descend into the kloof from the true right, either hike back up to the top of the kloof, or abseil off some chains at the top of BOGGLE. Numerous abseil options exist, but expect a lot of scrambling about on ledge systems to get to a suitable tree, or back down to the stream bed.
The shortest approach to Boulder Kloof is to hike from Mountain Sanctuary Park to the lower end of Lower Tonquani. From here, get onto the slopes on the true right of the Lower Tonquani kloof and hike up these to get to the descent at the upper end of Boulder Kloof at the point where it makes a right angle bend. Alternatively, hike from Mountain Sanctuary Park to the top of Frog Gully in Cedarberg Kloof. Descend this and move down Cedarberg kloof to the Lower Tonquani junction. Turn right (upstream) in Lower Tonquani for 50m and then left into Boulder Kloof.
The easiest way to descend most routes in Boulder Kloof is to walk to the upper end of the kloof, to where it makes a right angle bend. Easy descents exist on both sides of the kloof here and this is sometimes also the easiest descent available for a route on the true right of Lower Tonquani as well. With a bit of scrambling, it is also possible to descend on the true left hand side of the kloof immediately upstream of THE SHOW MUST GO ON.
There are anti-monkey cages a few metres upstream of the meet point and in the allocated camp site . It is suggested that you use these to store your lunch while climbing. Please do not leave litter in these cages, and please do not feed the monkeys. The monkeys will eat anything lying around, even if within a metre of you, so be vigilant!
Camping is strictly prohibited inside the kloof. Allocated camp sites are listed below. Making fires is also strictly prohibited inside and outside of the kloof and only allowed at the car camping spots Mountain Sanctuary provides.
Go car camping at Mountain Sanctuary Park. This is a little pricey and you need to book in advance, but the luxury of having your car right next to the tent is sometimes worth it. This is the only campsite at which you may make a fire.
For Upper Tonquani, a campsite exists a few minutes walk away. Opposite Short Gully, look for a path that leads up a steep slope, with a few sections of scrambling. 100m from the top of the steep ground, on your left you may find a few lovely spots among the bushes. A monkey cage here will also help protect you food.
For Cedarberg Kloof, a lovely campsite exists near the upper end of the kloof. As you approach from Mountain Sanctuary Park, it will be on your left just before you drop into the kloof. A monkey cage is located near the largest group of sandstone boulders. Put your food in here to protect it from the monkeys and baboons that know how to get into your pack for a tasty treat.
If you want to camp near Boulder Kloof, the best option is probably the TWEEDLE-DEE TWEEDLE-DUM campsite. This is located near 2 obvious sandstone pinnacles as you walk from the upper end of Boulder Kloof towards the top of Short Gully (Upper Tonquani). This is far from water, but is a pleasant spot.
The true right of a gully is defined as the side of the gully on the right hand side of an observer who is facing downstream. Similarly, the true left of a gully is defined as the side of the gully on the left hand side of an observer who is facing downstream.
The routes in this guide are listed on the true right hand side of the kloof followed by the true left side of the kloof. In each case, the routes are listed from the upstream end working downstream.
This kloof is located at the source end of Upper Tonquani Kloof. Almost all of the climbs are situated on the true left side. They are listed from the upper end working down the kloof to the bottom end.
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Location||Pitch Description|
|Being There||13||**||First ascent: 1989 M. Seegers and D. Margetts.||1. 20m 13 This climb ascends a steep looking slab with a break up the middle on the lower right hand side of Junction Kloof. Scramble up non-descript rock to base of slab.|
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Location||Pitch Description|
|On a Roll||13||**||First ascent: 1989 D. Margetts, A. Mercer and M. Seegers.||1. 30m 15 Climb the face left of FOREVER YOUNG.|
|Forever Young||15||**||First ascent: 1989 D. Margetts, M. Seegers, and A. Mercer.||1. 30m 15 Climb the break left of the SECOND DAN.|
|Second Dan||11||*||First ascent: May 1982 R. Fox and D. Scott.||Begin at the front of the buttress alongside a large knobbled tree on the extreme left of the upper amphitheatre.||1. 25m 11 Climb 3m in a recess then move up and left onto the main buttress. Move up 5m then traverse right onto the downstream side. Climb up stepped blocks to ledge at foot of 90o corner.
2. 15m 10 Climb in corner passing a tree with a large horizontal bough close to face.
|Red Rooster||15||**||First ascent: Apr 1982 C. Fatti and R. Fox.||Situated right of SECOND DAN. Start on the right of the arete and to the right of a small recess capped by a shelf and left of tall overhanging square reddish corner.||1. 35m 15 Climb up 2m right of the recess and make an awkward move left onto the shelf. Continue without deviation directly up the crest of the arete to the top. Note: A very clean route being steep and sustained in its middle section.|
|Pogue Mahone||20||**||First ascent: May 1982 D. Peters and M. Arsenjevic.||The climb lies in the middle of the upper buttress between RED ROOSTER and GREY HEN. The climb goes up a clean well-defined corner which leads past a ledge 7m up. The climb finishes next to a prominent projecting nose on the top of the crag.||1. 21m 20 Climb the corner gaining the ledge at 7m with difficulty. Continue up the corner to a large ledge.
2. 20m 19 Climb the corner for 5m to where it steepens. Continue up the corner for 2m to gain a small ledge (strenuous). Traverse right across the face for 5m and continue up to the top.
|Grey Hen||10||First ascent: May 1982 C. and A. Fatti.||Start 2m right of the 90o red corner described in RED ROOSTER.||1. 20m 10 Climb up slightly diagonally right for 20m to a ledge.
2. 15m 10 Move slightly left and continue up grey rock to the top.
|Left Unconquerable||21||***||First ascent: 1989 D. Margett and A. Mercer.||This climb starts right of STOP PRESS, below a steep face with a vine hanging down.||1. 20m 17 Climb up directly below the vine, move right to avoid the vine. Continue up to a ledge.
2. 15m 21 Above is a steep buttress with two breaks. Climb the left hand break.
|Third Dan||13||First ascent: Sep 1982 B. Schumacher, D. Scott and R. Fox.||Start 8m left of LET'S DO IT, behind a knobby stamvrug tree. Good rock, but has overhung vegetation in two places.||1. 23m 13 Climb 5m through a recess, making use of a lay-away hold and up to a small crooked tree. Continue up recess for 8m to an overhang, then move left, stepping down 1m to a ledge. Move further left 3m, then climb face above for 6m through a slight recess to a broad ledge.
2. 18m 13 Traverse easily left on broad ledge, then climb arete edge to top.
|Let's Do It||13||**||First ascent: Apr 1982 C. Fatti and R. Fox.||Start on the upstream side of the arete, near the extreme right of the upper amphitheatre (see map). It is better to keep the climb as two pitches to avoid rope drag.||1. 30m 10 Climb in corner for 10m and move right 2m on to a block. Climb 5m up on the left hand side of the arete, then traverse right on a narrow ledge past a large loose suspended flake onto a square ledge on the downstream side. Climb the corner above for 10m until blocked by a small overhang (stance).
2. 12m 13 Move up 2m, swing left onto the arete and do a press-up onto the ledge (crux). Climb final face for 10m.
|Fattypuff||19||***||First ascent: 1982 C. and P. Fatti.||1. 8m 13 Climb steep face to ledge. Continue up corner crack to stance below a thin crack.
2. 25m 19 Climb up thin crack to sloping ledge. Traverse diagonally down right and then delicately further right to a small ledge below a steep crack. Climb this and then diagonally up right to a resting ledge just left of the main recess (18). Climb up steeply (19) past overhang in recess to ledge with tree. Continue up on right to next ledge and stance. Climb up shallow rounded recess to top.
|Knobbled||7||*||Start in a broad upstream-facing recess beneath the first high crag encountered when moving upstream from Junction Pools.||1. 15m 7 Climb the recess and emerge through a gap in a pile of wedged blocks.
2. 25m 6 Ad lib up the knobby faces directly above the stance.
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Location||Pitch Description|
|Bloody Leg||15||First ascent: Oct 1974 H. Vogl and C. Ward.||About 200m right of AVALANCHE CORNER is a bowed slab with a yellow-brown face on the right.||1. 25m 13 Climb a slab into a red corner and overhang situated on the right. Traverse out right and up to a ledge.
2. 20m 15 Traverse left and make an awkward move up over an overhang to a ledge. Climb crack system to top.
|Jugular||16||**||First ascent: Jan 1982 D. Peters, C. Fatti and G. Moseley.||The climb goes diagonally left up the scooped red face 200m upstream of Reunion Gully. Start 2m to the left of the corner used by BLOODY LEG.||1. 30m 11 Climb the crack line in the slab for 15m where the rock turns orange and the slab becomes vertical. Traverse 5m left and climb up to the right of a grey rounded blob of rock to gain a ledge. Traverse left and belay in the corner beneath the steep corner.
2. 20m 16 Climb the steep smooth corner above.
|The Great Persuader||15||First ascent: Jul 1974 T. Hog and T. White.||Situated to the right of AVALANCHE CORNER in a prominent red corner, which tends to overhang at the top.||1. 28m 15 Start 4,5m left of the corner and climb up, moving right and up until a small recess is reached (20m). Care must be taken on some loose rock here. Climb up to a piton on the right wall of the corner (left in place) and then move down 1,5m and traverse out of the corner (going right) past a nose onto a small ledge below a grey face. Climb the face to a stance below some overhangs (tree belay).
2. 14m 11 Starting right of the tree, climb up the obvious break and traverse left for 4,5m. Climb the red face above to the base of an overhang and traverse into a recess using a good handrail below the overhang. Climb the recess to the top.
|Baboon Traverse||7||First ascent: Apr 1937 H. Ruhle, E. Ruhle and T. Lassen.||Above the confluence of the two streams in Tonquani. About 110m east of a landslide on a noticeable formation where the lower half of the rock face projects out of the krantz forming a buttress while the upper half over the same length lags further back thus leaving a terrace which stands well out over high bush on the slope.||1. 4,5m 7 Up in chimney on left inside corner of buttress then left above chockstone on to easy rock where a good belay is found a few metres higher.
2. 25m 7 An easy scramble to the terrace over loose boulders. Keep right. This pitch can be started at various points. The object is a horizontal crack leading into a recessed corner on right hand half of face. This corner brings the climber to left end of a ledge which runs across the face 4,5m below the top. Belay. 3. ?m 5 A walk or crawl to the other end of the ledge and over masses of chockstones to the top.
|Avalanche Corner||15||First ascent: Oct 1957 R. Kinsley, M. Armstrong and J. Billman.||The climb is situated on the left hand end of the krantz which overlooks the upper camp site, immediately to the right of a prominent rock landslide in a right-angled gully. This point is about 90m upstream of Reunion Gully.||1. 25m 10 Ascend face for 9m keeping close as possible to right hand wall, then move diagonally upwards and left for 15m to a cubby hole beneath overhang.
2. 30m 15 Note: Care is needed on loose rock at the start of pitch 2. Move up on to corner overlooking the landslide gully. Climb up slightly overhanging recess and continue up corner until an overhang bars further progress. At this point traverse right on to vertical face and climb to top keeping as far to left as possible. The pitch ends about 3m left of a small tree near the top of the face.
|Bog of Eternal Stench||20||***||First ascent: May 1987 R. Nattrass and S. Middlemiss.||10m upstream of the BEYOND THE VERTICAL gully (obvious corner).||1. 25m 20 Climb the corner to roof (4m). Peg under roof. Pull through on right and straight up wall above to right of recess. Move left at about 10m and follow obvious crack to top.|
|Seeing is Believing||22||***||First ascent: Jul 1985 K.M. Smith, G. Mallory and M. Brunke.||Start 3m right of CREAM TEAM.||1. 12m 22 Crank up from a large square hold to just reach a small hold below a small roof. Rail left until able to climb up and back right to larger holds at the base of a short left facing dihedral. Pull up into this and exit right.|
|Cream Team||19||***||First ascent: Jul 1985 G. Mallory, K.M. Smith, M. Smith, M. Brunke and M. Haffner.||A 2m by 5m roof is situated on the true right wall of Reunion Gully. CREAM TEAM takes the obvious crack up the wall to the left of the roof.||1. 15m 19 Pull up from a hollow sounding rail to reach small holds and follow the crack to the top.|
|Beyond the Vertical||22||***||First ascent: Jul 1985 K.M. Smith, G. Mallory and M. Brunke.||Takes the break 1 to 2m left of CREAM TEAM. Start 2m left of CREAM TEAM's undercut base.||1. 15m 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.|
|Your Evil Dukiness||14||***||First ascent: Oct 1992 T.P. Willmot and P.J. Duggan.||Takes the small open book 2,5 meters to the right of JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG (cairn). An excellent route for what, at first sight, seems to be choss.||1. 23m 14 Climb the broken rock to the base of the crack system in the open book above. Jam up this then stem delicately to clear to the left and ascend to the same stance as used by JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG.|
|Jeremiah was a Bullfrog||14||**||First ascent: Sep 1992 T.P. Willmot and P.J. Duggan.||Takes the layback crack high up, below the square roof some five meters to the right of LITTLE CREATURES (cairn). A good route, in its mid reaches.||1. 22m 14 Climb the broken rock to start and gain the base of the superb layback type crack above. Stem/layback up this until the square roof is reached. Break right to clear. Ascend the arete to the comfortable belay ledge above.|
|Toadwart||16||***||First ascent: Oct 1992 T.P. Willmot and P.J. Duggan.||Takes the shallow obvious open book midway between LITTLE CREATURES and JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG. Starts behind the gnarled tree (cairn). An excellent short route.||1. 22m 16 Take off with difficulty to gain the 2m layback crack immediately above. Layback up this to reach a good resting ledge above. Move up to gain the distinct open book. Follow this until forced out left. Gain the left arete by delicate maneuvering. Follow the arete to the comfortable belay stance above.|
|Little Creatures||16||**||First ascent: Jun 1987 M. Cartwright (solo).||Starts at the same place as COMBAT ROCK and takes the obvious open book 4m to the right.||1. 20m 16 Climb straight up the face to a ledge/rail at 6m. Move right into the corner. Climb the corner.|
|Combat Rock||19||***||First ascent: Jun 1987 S. Middlemiss, M. Cartwright and A. Margetts.||Start 4m to the right of LIVING IN THE PAST (cairn).||1. 20m 19 Climb straight up the face to a ledge at 6m. Balancy moves up right to a peg, then move right to a rest on a nose. Climb straight up above the nose tending slightly left to finish up the steep wall above.|
|Living in the Past||18||**||First ascent: May 1987 S. Middlemiss and R. Nattrass.||Between Reunion gully and the CREAM TEAM gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.||1. 20m 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.|
|Party Girl||12||***||First ascent: Jun 1987 S. Middlemiss.||Start 5m to the left of LIVING IN THE PAST at a blunt arete (cairn).||1. 25m 21 Climb the arete tending right to the ledge (8m). Move up to the rail and move left to the base of the right-tending diagonal crack. Follow this to where it finishes and move 2m left under the roof/overlap. Pull through and climb the wall above.|
|Good Time||16||**||First ascent: Jan 1995 U. Kiefer and T.P. Willmot.||Climbs the broken looking open book immediately downstream of the arete taken by PARTY GIRL - cairn. A surprisingly good short route.||1. 25m 16 Climb the steep broken open book and clear the small roof on the left. Move up the blocky ground above to reach the steep open book immediately downstream of the PARTY GIRL arete. Climb this and take comfortable stance on top.|
|It's a Hard Life||15||**||First ascent: Mar 1995 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||Climbs the groove immediately downstream of GOOD TIME - cairn. An excellent short route.||1. 25m 15 Climb the groove and stem comfortably past the roof. Move up the blocky ground above to reach the open book immediately downstream of that taken by GOOD TIME. Move up this via fist width crack to reach the comfortable belay stance just short of the summit.|
|Short Shit||14||First ascent: Jan 1995 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||Climbs the obvious broken groove at the right extremity of the blocky wall on the opposite side of the narrow gully containing GOOD TIME and PARTY GIRL - cairn. Note: Loose in places.||1. 25m 14 Climbs the groove, watch for loose shit here and there. Follow the obvious line to the top.|
|The Dragon of Rondebosch||16||First ascent: Dec 1989 S. Middlemiss and I. Schwartz.||Climbs the blocky face to the right of FOAD. Start at the tree. Note: Not recommended.||1. 25m 16 Climb straight up the middle of the loosish, blocky face moving slightly left to pull through the roof at the top.|
|Foad||17||*||First ascent: May 1982 K. Smith and M. Mears.||The climb takes the obvious cracked red recess 12m to the right of the Reunion cave. Note: An old piton three-quarters of the way up to the overhang suggests that the line had been attempted in earlier times.||1. 20m 17 Start at the base of the recess and climb directly to the overhang which is turned with technique. Easier rock is followed to a stance.|
|Fith||19||**||First ascent: Dec 1985 S. Middlemiss. (not followed).||Takes overhanging recess between AFTER THE GOLDRUSH and FOAD on the Reunion Buttress. Start 3m left of FOAD (cairn).||1. 35m 19 Climb up blocky face onto slab below overhang. Pull though overhang into recess above, and follow to top. The grade eases to 15 after 20m.|
|After the Goldrush||19||*||First ascent: Feb 1983 K. Smith and M. Mears.||The route starts from the top of the tapered block forming the right hand side of Reunion cave, and climbs straight up through steep rock.||1. 12m 19 Climb a slight bulge to footholds beneath the small overhang. Pull through onto easier rock. Move up and step left to stance at base of a recess.
2. 25m 15 Follow the recess/cracks to the top. (Slightly unsound rock).
|Reunion||12||***||First ascent: Jan 1947 J. Botha, R. Ruhle and H. Rowland.||Situated about 135m up kloof from Short Gully at the extreme right hand end of the Donkerhoek Buttress. Start just to the left of cave in a steeply sloping recess.||1. 18m 10 Follow the recess for about 11m until a small overhang is reached. Move out to the right and then continue up to a ledge. Traverse 3,5m right to a stance.
2. 12m 12 Proceed straight up a crack above the tree until an overhang is reached. A hand hold is available high up in a crack behind the overhang which enables one to lean outward in an exposed position and get round the overhang into a crack on the right where it is possible to move diagonally upwards to the right on to a good platform and tree belay. 3. 15m 10 Climb a narrow chimney for 4,5m and step out to the left onto the face. Climb straight up over some blocks to the summit beacon. Variations: 1. ?m 13 Start the climb next to a red face topped by an overhang on the Reunion Gully side, 30m upstream from normal start. Ascend a crack and then traverse out left (crux) onto the smooth red face. Continue traversing left around corner arriving at stance at top of normal first pitch. 2. ?m 15 Climb crack system above the overhang. Instead of moving right, continue up the thin crack to top. 3. 35m 19 Start 3m right of the normal start. Jug haul up a vague recess to the first stance. Continue up variation 2 above, before finishing directly up the steep crack in the final few meters. This variation goes almost directly up the wall.
|Modjaji||19||First ascent: Jan 1988 S. Middlemiss.||Climbs the wall to the right of REUNION SLAB.||1. 25m 19 Starting on the right of the wall, move up and left onto the wall and then straight on up through the roofs to the rap tree.|
|Reunion Slab||15||**||First ascent: 1950 W.F. Bright and R.F. Davies.||Start about 5m downstream of REUNION.||1. 25m 13 Ascend a smooth but sloping slab, having a wall on its right and an overhang on top. Near the overhang traverse left for 8m to a slight ridge. Ascend this for 9m to a narrow ledge which can be followed to the right to a stance at the first tree.
2. 9m 5 Traverse right to a stance below a wide recess of red rock. 3. 15m 15 Ascend the red rock (steep) and traverse out left (mantleshelf) on to easy rock, which is followed to the top. Variation: 2. 25m 13 Make a small (piton) stance below the slight ridge referred to under first pitch. Continue upwards and to the left into a recess, which is followed to the top. (Obviates pitches 2 and 3.)
|Chop Suey||13||First ascent: Jan 1966 D. Lubbe, J. Koorts, T. Rademeyer, R. Erens and G. Viljoen.||This climb is located on the grey lichen-covered face between REUNION SLAB and DONKERHOEK CORNER. There is plenty of scope for variation in this vicinity.||1. 22m 10 Start just left of the slab in REUNION SLAB. Ascend grey face bearing slightly left until a ledge is reached with a tree at its left end.
2. 18m 13 Ascend from right hand end of ledge until the face steepens. Then move right into a somewhat dirty recess. Ascend the recess, or one of its walls, to the top.
|By George||16||*||First ascent: Jun 1966 J. Anderson and M. Makowski.||About 9m to the right of DONKERHOEK CORNER there is a crack running up the face, which becomes a thin slit after 6m. The climb starts 3m to the right of this crack, from a block 4,5m above the base. Once the steep section at the start has been completed a certain amount of variation is possible. Note: Started by G. Viljoen in Jan 1966.||1. 25m 16 The take-off involves strenuous pull-up moves (crux). Move slightly left to crack up right edge of large firm flake. Ascend about 6m then diagonally up right 6m and then diagonally back left 6m to a good stance at left hand end of ledge (tree).
2. 22m 11 Continue up the crack directly above the tree. Then halfway up the pitch move diagonally left finishing just left of a bunch of creepers.
|IST||16||**||First ascent: Mar 1984 K.M. Smith and M. Smith.||The climb starts up the prominent crack about 9m to the right of DONKERHOEK CORNER.||1. 40m 16 Scramble up to the wide base of the crack. The crux is a few metres up where the crack closes. Continue with the crack until aloes are reached. Move left onto the face and climb more or less straight up to the top, passing a couple of old pegs on the way.|
|C'est La Vie||25||*****||First ascent: Feb 1988 R. Nattrass.||Climbs the smooth wall, with two bolts, to the right of STONE NEEDLE.||1. 15m 25 From the base of STONE NEEDLE climb diagonally right to the first bolt. Climb straight to the top past the second bolt.|
|Stone Needle||20||****||First ascent: Mar 1984 K.M. Smith and M. Smith.||Start 3m to the right of DONKERHOEK CORNER. Note: A "Rock 2" or equivalent is useful for protection in the initial crack.||1. 12m 20 Climb the thin crack (technical) to a comfortable tree belay.
2. 25m 16 Climb the open book, move through a tree, and then climb the steep section above, bearing left at the top to avoid most of the loose rock.
|Donkerhoek Corner||13||**||First ascent: 1952 R. Charlton and E. Ruhle.||From the point where the Donkerhoek Buttress reaches down to stream level, follow the steeply rising ground on its upstream end, to a point about 30m from the stream to where the rock makes a 90o angle to the right. Climbs this corner.||1. 12m 13 Ascend the corner and move right to a comfortable tree belay. (Crux in first 3m).
2. 30m 10 Continue up the corner as far as an overhang. From this point traverse left across a pleasant red face for about 5m and ascend to the top via a recess at the end of the overhang. The route ends about 3m right of the finish of DONKERHOEK RECESS.
|Laatlammertjie||16||First ascent: 5 Dec 2003 Dylan Morgan and Adam Feldman.||1. 45m 16 Start as for DONKERHOEK RECESS. Just before reaching the ledge with the large block, step right onto the face between DONKERHOEK RECESS and DONKERHOEK CORNER. Follow the crack/recess up, passing the vegetation on the right. As the crack veers left towards DONKERHOEK RECESS, continue directly up the face, to reach the leftward traverse of DONKERHOEK CORNER. Finish as for DONKERHOEK CORNER.
Variation: Finish directly at about 15.
|Donkerhoek Recess||12||***||First ascent: 1938 H. Barker||The climb takes a well-defined crack/chimney 5m to the left of DONKERHOEK CORNER.||1. 18m 12 Start in undercut crack with grey face at left (the take-off is the crux). Ascend crack to stance above large block.
2. 25m 7 From boulder stance follow crack to summit of buttress ridge, keeping on left corner of crack towards middle of pitch. Variation: 2. ?m 8 From about 6m above block belay at top of first pitch, traverse across face to right into third crack. Climb this vertically for about 12m then bear away to the left diagonally upwards to rejoin the original route at a point in the first crack just before the summit is reached. (1938 C. Nicholls) 2. 25m 10 Four meters from boulder stance (past tree) move left onto face. Climb this vertically alongside recess on good holds all the way to the top. Excellent line.
|Beetlejuice||15||****||First ascent: Jan 1989 D. Margetts, M. Seegers, T. Truter and F. Nel.||This climb starts 1m to the left of DONKERHOEK RECESS. The climb is marked by a crack running through the overhang to the face above.||1. 30m 15 Starting 1m to the left of DONKERHOEK RECESS, climb diagonally left, past a small tree to a small stance below an overhang with a crack cutting through it. Climb the crack and pull through the overhang. Climb the face above for 20m exiting slightly left of an overhang.|
|Donkerhoek Face||16 R||****||First ascent: Dec 1939 H. Wong, H. Barker and M. Burton. H.
Wong etc made the first ascent of pitch 1. Pitches 2 and 3 were first climbed in Oct 1946 by R. Charlton, E. Pearlstein and Miss E. Chadwick
|When seen from the campsite on the opposite side of the river, the Donkerhoek Buttress features an impressive, light brown coloured slab that faces upstream at right angles to the river. This climb goes roughly up the center of this face. Start about the center of the face below a prominent right facing corner.||1. 8m 16 A steep right-angled corner is climbed until a narrow ledge running off to the left is reached.
2. 6m 10 Traverse left along the ledge and then ascend a steep corner with good holds to a small stance at the foot of a long flat face (small bollard for belay). 3. 28m 12 Traverse right 2m (thin). Ascend the face to the top. Exposure is noticeable but grips although sometimes small are never lacking. Pitches 1, 2 and 3 can be climbed as one pitch. Variation: 2. 15 From the top of pitch 1, traverse and ascend diagonally left on the face until the extreme left hand edge is reached (delicate). Then ascend easy rock to top. (R. Davies and E. Villa)
|Hyperadrenia||20||****||First ascent: 1982 N. Cleaver, A. Wood and P. Leicesz.||When seen from the campsite on the opposite side of the river, the Donkerhoek Buttress features an impressive, light brown coloured slab that faces upstream at right angles to the river. This climb follow the finger crack roughly up the center of this face. Start about the center of the face below a prominent right facing corner.||1. 45m 20 Climb the right angled corner. At the top of this, step left and pull onto the slab. Pass 2 pegs then climb the very thin crack on small holds up the steep slab to the bulge. Move left and make a hard move over the bulge to gain easier ground.|
|Hyperadrenia Direct||22||**||1. 15m 22 Start about 5m to the left of HYPERADRENIA, under a very steep, shallow open book. Climb directly up the open book to the stance shared with DONKERHOEK FACE.
2. 22m 20 As for HYPERADRENIA.
|Fly on the Wall||25||***||First ascent: Unknown I. Guest and company.||Climbs the arete to the right of THE MOKE and continues up the face between the final section of THE MOKE and HYPERADRENIA.|
|Malady||17||**||First ascent: May 1983 C. Edelstein and A. Lambert.||Starts on the west facing rock facing upstream of the buttress where THE MOKE and RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG, etc., are situated. The start is beaconed and is about 5m left of the first red open book (topped by a medium-sized tree). i.e. it is on
the opposite side of the river to THE MOKE.
|1. 40m 17 Start in the deep chimney-like crack in which a large tree is growing (beacon). Continue up easy grey rock to where rock changes colour to yellow-red and steepens. Above are some small overhangs with a break to the right. Climb the break on good holds to a large ledge. Either stop here or climb to the top of the crag up the easy chimney-crack.|
|The Moke||17||****||First ascent: May 1970 Various opening parties.||Start at the base of a ridge between RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG and DONKERHOEK FACE.||1. 45m 17 Ascend the long slab next to the ridge up to where the slab steepens. Step right and make an awkward move over a bulge to gain the slab above. Move up left to the base of a steep open book and after a difficult initial move continue up the crack to a small overhang. Pass to the right of this and move up left to finish or climb thin crack system on face above.
The left finish is in fact the old variation of DONKERHOEK FACE which moves diagonally left from the top of pitch 2 of that climb. The right finish in the centre (A.D. Barley and R.P. Barley 8 Mar 1969) provides fine exposed climbing.
|The Great Dog Detective||24||****||First ascent: Mar 1988 R. Nattrass.||A line below THE MOKE.||1. 15m 24 Start below the right bolt. Move up to the bolt and then traverse to the second bolt. Follow the seam to the rail and step left to follow a second seam until it joins THE MOKE.|
|Keen Young Graduates||23||*||First ascent: Jun 1988 R. Nattrass.||A variation of THE GREAT DOG DETECTIVE.||1. 5m 23 From the first bolt continue straight up to the rail without traversing. Exit right at the rail.|
|Right Corner Overhang||15||****||First ascent: Jul 1949 D. Gillham, L. Schaff, M. de Villiers and B. Russell.||Situated on the prominent buttress on the upstream side of Short Gully. On the face of this buttress overlooking the stream, is a series of dark red overhangs which starts about halfway up. The climb starts at the right hand edge of a projecting face which reaches into the river. (Right of this is a very smooth slab)||1. 15m 13 Up the grey face, making use of a shallow crack at times to the start of the red overhangs. There is a small stance with an eye belay here.
2. 25m 15 Ascend diagonally to the right on a rather smooth sloping slab close up against an overhang. On rounding the overhang continue up steep face with very welcome large grips. Bear left into corner and when the corner becomes overhanging traverse left across a smooth grey face using a well defined finger-rail on to easy rock. This point is 18m directly above start of pitch. Continue to top.
|Kalahari||16||**||First ascent: Mar 1969 A.D. Barley and Miss M. van Steenderen. Barley etc made the first ascent of pitch 1. Pitch 2 was first climbed in Mar 1963 by M. Makowski and S. Cramphorn.||Start from a boulder in the stream between RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG and RIGHT CORNER CRAG.||1. 17m 15 Step across into a shallow slanting groove with a corner crack (the right hand one). Follow this to its end (8m) and swing right and up right to the overhang. Pass to the right of this and then move left to flat ridge and up the ridge using flake to a small stance and peg belay below the overhang. (This stance is on the traverse of RIGHT CORNER CRAG.)
2. 20m 16 Ascend the steep crack at the right end of the overhang and continue by strenuous climbing up past a detached block (seems safe) to the next overhang (piton). Swing left on to the nose then up right on small holds to top.
|Pam Pom||19||***||First ascent: May 1983 P. Brunswick and C. Edelstein.||The route begins in the recess just to the left of KALAHARI, "steals" about 6m of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG and then branches off right from RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to take the steep lay-back/jam crack instead of continuing up to the smooth face of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG. Note: Often climbed as a single pitch, using the start of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to avoid the belay in the river.||1. 20m 18 Climb the recess up to the overhang. Step right onto the arete, up 3m to a handrail and then left to a point just above the overhang. Up to the ledge and stance at the chockstone eye-hole common with RIGHT CORNER CRAG (old peg).
2. 30m 19 Continue up diagonally right as for RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to the Y-junction made by RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG (left arm of Y) and the lay-away/jam crack. Strenuous climbing but good nuts brings you to the overhang topping the crack and a difficult move round the corner brings you into a steep but easy crack. Continue to the top and a stance common with THE MOKE.
|Right Corner Crag||14||****||First ascent: Circa 1948 T. Bright and E. Scholes.||This route is on the same buttress immediately downstream of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG. It commences at the foot of a recess which slopes up from right to left.||1. 23m 14 Ascend the recess to a point immediately beneath large overhang. Traverse 6m right beneath the overhang to eye hole stance at the top of pitch 1 of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG. The difficulty arises in making the final move onto the stance.
2. 11m 13 Ascend the steep shallow crack slightly to left of eye-hole until forced to left by overhang onto an exposed grey slab. Ascend the grey slab near its left (outer) edge to easy rock. 3. 15m 5 Continue directly up to grassy ledge with large stamvrug tree.
|Ambidexter||14||**||First ascent: 1955 R.W. Charlton and D. Liddle.||Start 4,5m left of RIGHT CORNER CRAG next to a niche.||1. 25m 13 Ascend the wall on good holds to a ledge below a huge flake which reaches up to the overhang. Ascend the flake crack at the right hand side to the overhang, then traverse to the left hand top of the flake.
2. 10m 14 Pull over the bulge on good holds. Continue up the rib to a ledge and tree belay.
|Jet Plane||23||**||First ascent: 8 Apr 2012 Hector Pringle and Nicholas Grech-Cumbo.||To the left of KALAHARI and about 20m above the river is a ledge with a big block. Directly above this is a short, overhanging wall with a flaring crack. Scramble up to the ledge. Boulder out the steep wall and crack and continue up the easy slab to the tree. Rap off. Fun moves but very short.|
|Tonquani Trifle||17, A2||First ascent: Feb 1976 H. Boshoff and E. Haber.||This route is a girdle of the upper part of Tonquani, on good and clean rock, starting with the first pitch of RIGHT CORNER CRAG.||1. 25m 13 Climb up to the eye-hole stance of RIGHT CORNER CRAG.
2. 30m 17,A2 Climb the second pitch of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to fix a good sling point as high as possible for a pendulum to the right. Climb down to start of the steep section, then pendulum to the right with difficulty, until a tape sling can be fitted to a small flake. Aid to the right (two pitons in place) descending into a recess. Climb the recess free 2m, then descending slightly at first, make a delicate traverse to the right to reach a crack. Make a pull-up to a stance on the right. This stance is below the step over of DONKERHOEK FACE. 3. 45m 13 Follow DONKERHOEK FACE past the stepover, continue diagonally right into DONKERHOEK RECESS which is climbed 10m, to the end of the little traverse of DONKERHOEK CORNER. Reverse the traverse and descend 3m to a stance on a tree. 4. 40m 10 Traverse around the corner to the right 30m until a higher ledge can be gained. Continue right to a good tree. 5. 30m 13 Traverse right 3m and climb the steep crack in the red face until it is possible to move over to the right on a handrail. This is the steep face mentioned in pitch 3 of REUNION SLAB. Continue right passing below the crux of REUNION to a good stance. 6. 30m 15 Climb down 2m and move awkwardly around a ridge to the right into a V-shaped chimney. Climb up 2m to exit out to the right.
|Poohals Pedank||19||First ascent: Feb 1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts.||About one third of the way down short gully there is a projecting nose of rock with a poorly defined corner on the upstream side.||1. 10m 19 Pull through the overhang on good holds and climb to the top of the crag.|
|Mike's Kitchen||18||**||First ascent: Sep 1986 T.P. Willmot and P.S. Greenfield.||The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of MIKE'S DESPAIR. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses MIKE'S DESPAIR at its first stance. The slab is excellent thin face climbing.||1. 35m 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of MIKE'S DESPAIR and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning #3.5 friend crack to the top.|
|Mike's Despair||13||The route is situated right of CONCERTINA, halfway up Short Gully, on the true right hand side, about 10m downstream from a prominent overhang-cave. The climb starts at the foot of a large grey downstream facing slab, in front of which grows a twin-trunked tree.||1. 20m 13 Climb straight up the thin crack/recess for about 12m then move diagonally right and over broken rock to choice of stances.
2. 15m 10 Move up to and climb a slightly overhanging open book recess on excellent holds, to reach the top. First ascent: May 1976 M. Brokenshire, A. Cuthbertson and K.M. Smith.
|Concertina||11||*||First ascent: 1948 T. Louw and W. Curle.||Commences halfway down Short Gully on right hand side.||1. 21m 11 Straight up on corner for 9m then diagonally up towards right to foot of recess.
2. 12m 8 Climb in the corner between slightly overhanging walls.
|Pigswet||16||First ascent: Apr 1986 S. Middlemiss and A. Margetts.||Starts on right hand side of boulder problem mentioned in LOBSTER POT, the line follows the steep V groove on the buttress above.||1. 20m 16 Climb up easy ground, past ledge with loose blocks to V-groove. Follow groove to, top passing small roof half way up.|
|Lobster Pot||17||First ascent: Apr 1986 P. Lazarus and S. Middlemiss.||Starts on left hand side of popular boulder problem in gully i.e. approximately 20m up from MANHATTAN.||1. 30m 17 Pull up onto ledge and climb up onto second small ledge (4m). Stretch across smooth wall on right and pull up on small jugs into open book above (tree). Follow open book to steep but easy face which is followed to top.|
|Spawn of Evil||17||First ascent: Apr 1986 S. Middlemiss and P. Lazarus.||Starts up open book 4m to right of MANHATTAN.||1. 30m 17 Climb open book, moving left to crack when threatened by bulge. Move immediately back right and pull to right through roof. Follow easy arete above to top.|
|Manhattan||13||**||First ascent: May 1963 M. Makowski and J. Anderson.||The climb is situated about 6m to the right of LEFT CORNER CHIMNEY.||1. 30m 13 Up crack on left of large jutting undercut nose. Continue up crack and ascend open book directly above for about 9m until it is possible to move out right and up.|
|Left-Corner Chimney||9||*||First ascent: 1945 J. Plekker, K. Ruhle and E. Ruhle.||Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from LEFT CORNER.||1. 23m 9 Ease into narrowing vertical chimney on good handholds through overhanging tight section, then 4,5m higher and out of chimney to right and up to good belay on bush.
2. 18m 8 On vertical rock 6m to horizontal crack then traverse left to top stance of LEFT CORNER.
|Left Corner||7||*||First ascent: circa 1938 P. Houmoller.||The ridge or buttress forming the downstream boundary of Short Gully.||1. 18m 7 Follow the corner ridge to the first belay point on a block. An alternative route to this point commences about 6m downstream from the corner.
2. 25m 7 Continue on the line of the ridge bearing slightly left into shallow recess then up a crack for about 4,5m to another block belay. 3. 15m 6 Scramble to top.
|Kitchen Crack||7||*||First ascent: 1937 G. Potter and B. Harris.||Commences in an obvious recess or crack at ground level at the traditional meet point. Above this point a number of grade 8 routes present themselves.|
|Cornerstone||15||First ascent: Feb 1999 Merv Prior and J. Ball.||The climb starts at the big tree at the step-down from KITCHEN CORNER to the RED CORNER platform. It follows the obvious line up a shallow recess to a small chimney which cuts the red-brown overhang.||1. 30m 15 Move delicately up and left on small holds up a smooth face. Continue upward about 5m, then move right towards a small arete and gulley. Climb the arete (or gulley) to a small tree and continue to a ledge below the red-brown overhang.
2. 40m 14 Move 2m left to the base of the brown crack. Climb the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Continue up the broken face to a large ledge. Scramble 5m up open book to the top.
|Mayday||20||**||First ascent: May 1987 N. Margetts, D. Margetts and G. Lainis.||This is a pleasant unsustained route ideal for climbers new to this grade. Start 4m upstream and around the corner to BROKEN CORNER.||1. 15m 20 Climb up on good grips until an off-balance position on a ledge is reached. Above are two crack systems. Avoid the crack system in the corner to the right and climb the crack up the centre of the overhang to easier rock above. Continue up to a good ledge shared with SIMIAN STREET.
2. 20m 15 Traverse right for 2 to 3m and then ascend the face moving diagonally right until forced right into the corner shared with BROKEN CORNER (second pitch). Continue up this corner to a ledge. Instead of moving right as in BROKEN CORNER, move left into a recess. Climb up this corner to a good ledge and tree belay. 3. 45m 8 Climb up recess above stance to a point where you can move left onto an exposed ridge. Continue up nondescript rock to the top of the crag. Variation: 1. 15m 15 Climb up to ledge as in the normal route. Step right into a corner which is followed to the same ledge as the end of the normal pitch one.
|Broken Corner||18||First ascent: Feb 1964 D. Lubbe, J. Kruger and Miss E. Furst.||The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of RED CORNER, i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.||1. 12m 18 Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. RED CORNER, and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.
2. 20m 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay. 3. 25m 7 Continue up the recess to top. Variation: By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (13).
|Simian Street||21||***||First ascent: Oct 1981 C. Ward and J. Holding.||Note: Originally climbed with 5 points of aid. The first ascensionists later reduced this to 3 points (through the main overhang). Finally Kevin Smith and party made a free ascent on 13 Jun 1982.||1. 12m 18 As for BROKEN CORNER.
2. 24m 21 Bridge up over the bulge on the left and climb directly to the crack. Follow this past a small overhang and continue to the large overhang above. Step left to steep groove which leads to a niche (peg runner). From crouching position in the niche traverse right until good holds lead up to grassy ledge. A sustained pitch. 3. 23m 13 Climb the wall above and make a move right which leads to easy ground.
|Two Dogs and Freedom||22||****||First ascent: Jun 1987 P. Lazarus and S. Middlemiss.||The climb is situated on the true right-hand side of the kloof and takes the line through the roofs immediately right of RED CORNER, to provide outstanding, sustained climbing on good rock with mind boggling exposure. The climbing is bold but protection is excellent.||1. 18m 19 The pitch starts on the extreme right hand side (upstream side) of the large ledge from which the climbing on RED CORNER also begins. Step right into the crack and move up to a small cubbyhole below a small roof. Make committing moves through this and onto the steep face above. Move up left to the large roof and make delicate moves left onto good jugs, then pull up onto a small ledge in a cubbyhole. (The stance is at the same point where one steps right before moving up to the roof on RED CORNER.)
2. 25m 22 From the stance move up onto the arete 4m left of SIMIAN STREET. Climb the arete to the roof, pull strenuously through and continue up the short crack in the corner above to another roof. Move right around this onto a small ledge. Climb the short crack up the face immediately above, scarily to the top to gain a massive big ledge.
|Red Corner||17||*****||First ascent: Nov 1937 R. Barry and C. Gebhardt.||The climb lies up a steep reddish coloured corner about 60m upstream of TONQUANI RIDGE and just downstream of the meet spot. From the corner downstream, as far as the climb HAWK'S EYE, there is a steep white face which is topped by a containing overhang. The route follows the recess until say 9m from this overhang and then goes right on to broken vegetated rock, where the climbing ends. The route is exposed, stances small and belays not obvious. Time on first ascent (1937) 3 hours.||1. 6m 12 Ascend in corner to a grassy ledge. A scrambling route to this ledge exists a short distance to the left.
2. 18m 17 Ascend 4,5m in left of corner, make a delicate traverse 2m to right on to right side of corner. Continue up to an overhang and then traverse left out of the corner on to a narrow rock ledge. (Piton belay.) 3. 14m 17 Go back into corner. Climb up very steep red face in left of corner to a small stance with piton and chockstone belay. 4. 11m 17 Continue up corner. Climbing is less steep, but delicate. Traverse right from corner where it steepens to stance on broken easy rock. Variation: 2. 11 Instead of pitch 2 above which is probably the most severe pitch of the climb, one can climb a face to the left and traverse right on to the narrow ledge with piton belay.
|Pumping Gibbon||19||**||First ascent: Oct 1981 J. Holding and C. Ward.||Scramble up the short wall to a grassy ledge, left of RED CORNER. Start at the left of 2 short recesses. Note: The lack of good gear at the 2nd stance will most likely convince you to merge pitches 2 & 3.||1. 20m 13 Climb the left-hand recess until it is possible to move into the right hand recess. Follow this to a ledge and move right to where a higher traverse line can be reached (old piton in place). Traverse left and climb a bulge to a ledge.
2. 18m 19 Ascend the wall above and gain the bottomless corner crack. Climb this through a small overhang, above which elephant's ears lead to a mantleshelf out on the left. Belay on this small stance. 3. 20m 17 Scramble over the belayer and climb up to the overhang, then traverse right below this. Finish up the last few meters of RED CORNER. Variation: Originally a 3m traverse right was made at the height of the mantleshelf on pitch 2, to the obvious ledge (20). From there, a grade 15 move was done to join the right-traverse below the large roof. 3. 22m 20,A2 (The Monkey Puzzle pitch) From the small belay ledge make an awkward move up over the bulge. Move up and right passing just to the left of a big block. Climb straight up to reach the jam crack at the base of the roof. (Piton protection on wall due to loose rock) Traverse left under the roof until in a position to layback up its side. Move right and gain a position on the ledge (strenuous). Use 2 aid points to move to the lip of the overhang where a pull-up enables one to stand on the horn. Scrambling leads to a stance. (May 1982 N. Cleaver and A. Wood.)
|Pumping Gibbon Direct||21||**||First ascent: Unknown G. Mallory (had climbed it on aid previously).||Between HAWK'S EYE and RED CORNER is a steep wall capped by roofs. In the centre of the wall is a 6m high corner which starts fairly high up. There is a line 3m left of the corner which is MONKEY MUSIC. PUMPING GIBBON gains this layback corner and climbs the roofs directly above. Scramble up about 15m to a suitable stance below corner.||1. 30m 20 Face climb diagonally right then back left to the base of the corner. Exit left at the top of the corner to stance awkwardly 1m left.
2. 20m 21 Climb straight up to a hanging white block. Traverse 2m left, surmount the block and pull through the final roof on the right. An aid peg provides good protection for the crux.
|Monkey See, Monkey Do||19||****||First ascent: Mar 1985 Ian Slatem and Clive Curson.||Takes a fairly direct slanting line from just left of the PUMPING GIBBON start to top of RED CORNER.||1. 45m 19 Starting 1 to 2m left of PUMPING GIBBON, ascend the arete directly up to a stance (15m 17). Here the climb crosses PUMPING GIBBON, continuing up just to the right of it for 5m before traversing 6m right below the smooth ramp. On the right hand edge of this slab (about 4m left of RED CORNER) climb up to reach a stance below a short open book (15m 19). Ascend this towards the overhang before traversing right along PUMPING GIBBON (15m 16).|
|Monkey Music||20,A1||**||First ascent: Mar 1984 G. Mallory and S. Mallory.||The route climbs the line 3 metres left of PUMPING GIBBON i.e. between HAWK'S EYE and RED CORNER.
Scramble up towards HAWK'S EYE’s start and stance at two square blocks.
|1. 25m 20 Climb up 2m before traversing 2m right. Mantleshelf then continue up towards the PUMPING GIBBON open book. From the resting place here move 2m left and climb the crack to a semi-hanging stance 7m below the large roof.
2. 20m 20,A1 Climb up to the roof and traverse delicately left to where a nut can be used to aid further across the smooth face. Continue up to the top.
|More Hustle than Muscle||22||sparse and unreliable||**||First ascent: Nov 1984 K.M. Smith and G. Mallory.||Follows the left hand dihedral/crack system which cuts the crag immediately left of MONKEY MUSIC and PUMPING GIBBON. Scramble up bushy grey rock to a small ledge at the base of the narrow lower dihedral.||1. 30m 22 Climb the dihedral and continue up to a rest below the final left-leaning open book. Traverse left and climb up to a good hold, then climb diagonally right towards the top of the open book, where an overhang is turned and easier rock is followed to the summit.|
|Accipiter's Edge (aka The Bird of Prey)||23R||Adequate gear, micro’s are useful.||****||First ascent: May 2008 Hector Pringle and Bernard Spies.||Climbs the steep wall directly below the abseil tree at the end of HAWKSEYE. Scramble as per HAWKSEYE and belay from the large platform directly below the tree. The route was cleaned and top-roped before being led.||1. 30m 23R Climb the obtuse open book until able to step right to a crack. Make a tricky move to gain the hand crack in white rock. Crank through the roof above to a rest ledge on the left. Climb steep jugs to a wedged prong. Surmount the prong and place a nest of micros in a rail on the left. Step left and climb the tricky face to a short, right-facing open book with another prong above and to the right. Layback up and right and then climb back left to jugs. Climb easy but run-out jugs to the top.|
|Butcher Bird||24R||Poor||***||First ascent: 5 Feb 2012 Hector Pringle.||Ascends the wall almost directly beneath the HAWKS EYE abseil tree. It is right of TALONS and just left of ACCIPITER. Scramble up to belay from the big platform directly below the abseil tree.||1. 30m 24R Climb the slab on the left as for HAWKS EYE until able to step right to a left facing corner crack beneath the biggest, upper roof. Swing right to the prow above the smaller, lower roof and climb up to the big roof. Suck it up to pull leftwards through the widest part. Stay calm in the recess above because you still have to pull straight up through two overlaps to get to the jugs. Don't screw up the last 10m to the tree.|
|Hawk's Eye||13||****||First ascent: Jan 1937 R. Barry and J. Langmore.||This route ascends an easy, pleasant line between TONQUANI RIDGE and RED CORNER. Scramble up to the ledge a few meters above stream level, just downstream of the meet spot.||1. 30m 5 Climbing up the leftwards sloping ramp which starts a few metres left of RED CORNER, until at the tree just below the roofs. Traverse 4m left to a belay.
2. 30m 13 Traverse 5m left around corner and ascend 22m. Traverse right to a large stance below an overhang. 3. 15m 13 Traverses right, and through or outside an "eye" in the rock on the right from which an easy ledge is reached which can be followed to the right to reach a great abseil tree. Note: Originally climbed in an almost direct and vegetated line keeping some 9m to the right of TONQUANI CRACK. Start about 9m above the pool at the bottom of which is the start of TONQUANI RIDGE. After 30m, a traverse right led to the tree. Variations: 3. 15m 15 From the eye stance traverse 9m left over smooth reddish slab and then ascend to the top. 3. 15m 13 A further alternative after passing through the eye is to climb the recess above, then hand-traverse left and climb up to top.
|Talons||22||***||First ascent: Jul 1982 A. Wood and C. Ward. (3 points of aid). First free climbed in Aug 1982 by A. Wood and N. Cleaver.||Directly below HAWK'S EYE, the line can be plainly seen. Climb HAWK'S EYE as far as the belay below the 13 pitch.||1. 12m 22 Climb up right to a tree then hand-traverse left to lip of the roof. Quickly pull through the roof until one can stand in a relatively comfortable position on the wall between the two overhangs. Traverse right and pull into a recess, above which a small but good hanging belay can be made.
2. 25m 19 Step out right and up into the corner. Climb this and finish as for HAWK'S EYE direct.
|Tonquani Crack||15||**||First ascent: Apr 1938 C. Nicholls, J. Langmore and C. Gebhardt.||This route follows the crack on the upstream side of TONQUANI RIDGE for the full height of the face. The climbing is mostly grade 8 to 11 except for the crux pitch which starts at the Burton Memorial Plaque. This pitch entails negotiation of an overhang in the crack (15). The final pitch ends with a short chimney.||Note:
A **** grade 13 variation is to climb TONQUANI CRACK as far as the Burton Memorial Plaque and to then climb TONQUANI RIDGE from that point.
|Rib Tickler||17||**||First ascent: Feb 1968 A.C. Carmen, Miss E. van Dyke.||The rib immediately left of TONQUANI CRACK is ascended directly with a finish independent of TONQUANI RIDGE, though the finish to the latter is more in line. Starts at the base of TONQUANI CRACK.||1. 15m 17 Ascend the rib immediately left of the crack with an awkward move at 4,5m. Continue up the overhanging crack in the left corner to a small stance and tree belay.
2. 25m 15 Traverse left onto the face and move up to the crack in the centre. Follow the crack with an awkward move over a bulge, to a ledge. Move left and up into a shallow chimney capped by a block. Surmount the blocks with difficulty and continue up the crack line to stance and chockstone or peg belay. 3. 25m 15 Ascend the overhanging rib above using good holds (strenuous and spectacular) to a large ledge at the base of TONQUANI RIDGE final pitch. This would be a true finish but the following is independent: Traverse right and ascend to huge chockstone. Surmount this and move right across a chimney to a tree belay near the top. Variation: The first pitch of RIB TICKLER as written up ascends the rib between SUPERRAMP and TONQUANI CRACK (about 4m apart) and is devoid of protection. This pitch is well protected, and a more direct line. Start 7m left of RIB TICKLER (i.e. 4m left of SUPERRAMP). 1. 20m 17 Climb broader crack/incut holds through bulge and onto face above. Follow face above to join second pitch of RIB TICKLER as it traverses left onto the face. (Apr 1986 S. Middlemiss and A. Margetts)
|Tonquani Ridge||13||***||First ascent: Sep 1937 J. Langmore, G. von Grunewald and D. Abercrombie.||Commences on top of a waterfall about 3m high close to the rock face above a pool about 9m upstream from the start of FENG'S FOLLY.||1. 18m 9 Traverse left from top of waterfall for 9m, then climb 6m up crack to tree.
2. 25m 13 Step across an awkward gap immediately above the stance and traverse right across an exposed grey face as far as possible. Ascend 9m on thin holds to a tree growing in the crack on the right hand side of the ridge. 3. 12m 10 Climb the face to the left of the crack to a wide stance under a large overhanging recess (Burton Memorial here). 4. 22m 11 Step off from the tree on left immediately below the corner and ascend on face 6m then bear left to the outer edge and ascend a further 3m before traversing in to right, finishing up a short crack through an overhang to a narrow ledge of blocks. 5. 25m 13 Move from stance up to left to exposed crest of ridge. Ascend this ridge and pass through crack in overhang at top to complete the climb. Variation: 1. 10 From the top of the first pitch of FENG'S FOLLY, scramble up grass ledge to the right leading to a stance on a large block below a 6m face. From here traverse on rock to the right, finishing up at the tree in the crack at the top of the second pitch of the original direct route.
|Superramp||21||***||First ascent: Mar 1975 J. Linke and C. Ward at 16,A1. First free climbed in Apr 1985 by J. Wright and C. Curson.||The climb follows the old aid route CRIB, but the last section may be climbed independent of the adjacent climbs. Notes: The first twenty metres of this climb rates 5 stars with ultra-thin climbing and great spectator participation possibilities! One may easily down climb via TONQUANI CRACK.||1. 40m 21 Start 7-8m downstream from TONQUANI CRACK. Climb the thin crack slanting left up over a small bulge, through a grey face to a large ledge.
2. 40m 19 Ascend the steep wall, keeping 2 to 6m right of the HIGHWAY crack, and left of the overhang at the top.
|Highway||15||**||First ascent: 1949 F. Villa and D. Mitchell.||This climb starts from the top of the first pitch OF FENG'S FOLLY. It follows the line of the recess to the left of TONQUANI RIDGE starting 20 to 30m to the left thereof.||1. 20m 15 Follow the crack for 4,5m to a small ledge under an overhang. Traverse slightly to the left and climb a thin yellow face, passing a small tree on the left. Follow crack to a small stance.
2. 20m 11 Continue up crack to finish. Alternatively a pleasant 15 variation can be made by diverging to the right from a cubby hole on to a steep face on the downstream side of the ridge.
|Feng's Folly||11||**||First ascent: 1933 M. Fenger and H. Barker.||Commences in a prominent recess starting from stream level about 9m downstream of the start of TONQUANI RIDGE. The recess is topped by a sloping ledge with a large tree on the edge of the recess.||1. 15m 11 Cross the stream to rock ledge then scramble up 4,5m to commencement of crack in recess. Follow route up recess slightly to right at top of grass ledge and large tree.
2. 25m 6 Bear left up crack making for obvious recess up which the climb continues. 3. 15m 11 The final pitch goes up the chimney (watch out for loose rock) which leads to the summit. Variation: 3. 13 Ascend a few metres in the final chimney and then traverse right across a face for 18m. This traverse leads to an undercut buttress which is ascended until easier rock is reached at the top. (1954 H. Barker)
|Triangle Crack||16||*||First ascent: 1942 J. Botha.||The climb commences halfway along the face between the start of TONQUANI RIDGE and COFFIN, to the right of a shallow recess with a triangular cubby hole 6m up. The route makes for the right hand end of the large overhang to the right of COFFIN. It passes to the right of this overhang and ascends the face standing out from the kloof wall at 90o.||1. 22m 15 Commence below and to the right of the triangular cubby hole and work into it, bypassing it on the left, then traversing to the right above it, and ascending 12m to a grassy stance and small tree.
2. 9m 10 Climb a small buttress immediately above. UPPER TONQUANI: True Right PAGE 75 3. 22m 6 Walk 6m to right and climb a long grey ridge to a ledge and tree. 4. 24m 16 From the tree climb a crack in the centre of the prominent exposed face on the left of FENG'S FOLLY chimney. The crux move is the final one of the climb, requiring a long arm pull into a rather dirty cubby hole.
|Navigator to Heaven||24||****||First ascent: 1989 S. Isebeck, D. Neethling, C. Leslie-Smith and C. Lomax.||This 'adventure style' route takes a line through the roofs right of ZAP and LAST RITES.||1. 40m 19 Start on a large boulder about 10m right of LAST RITES and follow the easy break to the right hand side of the green face above. Climb the face going diagonally left to a rotten pillar/block. (Gear is min).
2. 25m 24,A1 Move right into the book above and past a roof (bolt is a bitch to clip). Step onto ramp above roof, (yellow dot on the nose of the roof), and follow the pegs to a second bolt (near the off-width crack in the next roof). An aid move is required here. Finish slightly left above a peg in a small ledge. 3. 30m 21 Go hard right on the white (bat) ledge. (It makes good sense to empty your rack into the crack at this juncture.) Move up on a small hold and traverse to the arete keeping low. Climb the arete to the roofs above and wind through to the top.
|In Gods's Country||24||First ascent: 1991 M. Cartwright.||1. 45m 24 Start as for NAVIGATOR TO HEAVEN, then left into small recess. Break left and up to small ledge. Climb centre of wall above and through more roofs to finish at notch at highest point of crags.|
|Z.A.P||22,A3||First ascent: Unknown T. Holt and D. Hartley.|
|Paradise Lost||Starts halfway between COFFIN and the very large boulder about 30m upstream.||1. 32m 17 Climb the face a few metres right of the obvious-looking corner for 10m and continue right up a series of minor ramps to the ledge. Traverse right along ledge for 7m. Belay below an undercut corner which leads to a ledge 5m above.
2. 25m 20 Gain the ledge 5m above via some strenuous moves (20) or use a shoulder. Traverse 5m left to a smooth corner and climb this to the overhang. Climb up right using undercut layback grips to the overhang, then traverse right to easier ground. Continue to belay on shattered blocks. 3a. 25m 19 Traverse left around the corner and continue on a long horizontal traverse with a few precarious moves to gain the foot-rail traverse of LAST RITES and the traverse line of COFFIN. Note: The climb is not complete in itself as it uses the finish of other climbs, but it is included on its merits, as was the case with LAST RITES. J. Levy etc made the first ascent of pitches 1 and 2. Pitch 3 was first climbed by D. Peters and M. Arsenjevic Variation: 3b. 20m 11 Traverse horizontally right across the smooth slab and continue up to the start of the final pitches of TONQUANI TRIANGLE and FENG'S FOLLY.
|Last Rites||19||*****||First ascent: Mar 1969 A.D. Barley and R.P. Barley.||Note: 2nd pitch very spectacular but well protected.||1. 20m 17 Ascend first pitch of COFFIN to just after the fall-across move, then continue up the chimney past the cave mouth to a large chockstone. Surmount this to a small stance and peg belay below the first large overhang.
2. 22m 18 Layback round the overhang to a resting place below the second overhang. Bridging out on both walls "walk" out to the lip to a small ledge on the right wall. This brings one to the bottom of the 6m descent on pitch 4 of COFFIN. Continue to the normal stance where Coffin emerges from the cave. 3. 12m 19 Climb the narrowing chimney above and place a nut as high as possible. Descend slightly to a handrail just above an overhang and hand-traverse 4,5m left to the arete (strenuous). Ascend up right to a belay above the traverse line, where it is possible to protect the second man. 4. 22m 10 Ascend the crack above and up the wall to finish in an undercut corner on the left (partly COFFIN).
|Coffin||16||**||First ascent: Dec 1937 R. Barry, J. Jennings, C. Bubole, C. Gebhardt, F. Collet and G. Potter.||The climb has as its objective the ascent of the prominent undercut grey buttress lying to the left of FENG'S FOLLY. When viewed from up the kloof the grey buttress is seen as a detached mass, the wide crack separating it from the main crag being occupied by a large coffin-shaped slab of rock. Start immediately below the chimney in the corner where the grey buttress abuts against the face.||1. 30m 16 Climb the wall to the right of the chimney to a ledge. Fall across or straddle into chimney, then ascend this until entry can be made to the cave behind.
2. 28m 12 Follow cave right through to its exit on far side of buttress overlooking the bathing pool and lunch spot. (bat manure) Chimney inside the cave over a series of slippery ledges towards a shaft of light coming from the right. A tight squeeze through a vertical slit leads to a stance in fresh air. Note: Second pitch - grading depends on condition of cave-like chimney. Light conditions can be very poor in the chimney. 3. 25m 14 Descend the crack between buttress and coffin for 6m and traverse left on good but very exposed ledge for 4,5m across the face of the buttress immediately above the undercut portion. This ledge peters out, but the same line may be continued on small holds for 3m when the ledge widens out again near the edge of the buttress. Climb a crack and face for 11m to a stance which gives a good belay for the traverse. 4. 30m 10 Ascend lichen covered rocks on buttress until reddish overhangs are reached. Traverse right for about 6m, then continue to top.
|Lethal Injection||21||Small cams and wires are useful.||****||First ascent: May 2008 Hector Pringle, Bernard Spies and Linda Watson.||Essentially an alternative to the crux pitch of LAST RITES. Climb LAST RITES to take a semi-hanging stance at the COFFIN rail. This is the rail about 4m above the final roof on the 2nd pitch of LAST RITES. The route was cleaned and top-roped before being led.||1. 20m 21 Step left onto the slab and climb the groove to where it dies. Step left to a pencil crack and climb this to jugs at the left end of the LAST RITES crux traverse. Up to belay at the small tree.|
|Alchemy||22||*****||First ascent: 26 Oct 1975 J. Linke and C. Ward. First free climbed in Apr 1985 by K.M. Smith, P. Schlotfeldt, G. Mallory and M. Brunke.||The stepped crack line up the front (stream-side) of the COFFIN buttress. Scramble to ledges about 10m up. Notes:1. Scramble to top. 2. ALCHEMY follows the line of the old aid route ROCK SPIRIT.||1. 25m 22 Step right, climb up to and negotiate the short dihedral (piton). Traverse right, climb the down ward-flaring crack and continue to beneath the final overhangs. Break through on the right, and climb more easily to a stance.|
|Pretzel Logic||22||****||First ascent: About 1990 P. Lazarus||1. 40m 22 Climb 40m of capey climbing on excellent rock.|
|Resurrection||19||**||First ascent: 1956 B. Magg, W. Wieder and S. Perry.||From the top of the first pitch of SEPULCHRE continue up the steep crack referred to under that climb. This is the crack running up the face immediately right of the SEPULCHRE cleft. It leans to the left all the way. The crux consists of a move over a bulge into the crack near the start. Near the top of the crack traverse right onto a grey face where the difficulty reduces, and ascend to the top. Direct aid pegs were used on first ascent.|
|Sepulchre||19||***||First ascent: Jan 1937 R. Barry and C. Gebhardt.||When viewed from the big bathing pool, the grey (COFFIN) buttress is seen to be bounded on the left by a grassy and vegetation-filled chimney. To the right of this chimney, broken red rocks lead to a steep crack, about halfway up which grows a green tree. The upper parts of the crack appear to overhang.
To the left of the cave (on COFFIN route) which lies directly above the slimy chimney is seen a steep slab which lies back at an easier angle just below the red break-away. To the left of the uppermost part of this slab is seen a ledge and above, the crag lies at an easier angle and is more broken. The route follows the broken rocks at the bottom of the grey buttress to the base of the red crack (18m 9). This is followed (11m) to a good ledge behind the upper branches of the green tree. Above this point the crack is forbidding, so a rope may be fixed to a piton. An abseil of 9m leads to a point where one can traverse left into the crack below the cave (13) and ascend the cave. Climb the outside wall of the cave for 8m to where a belay can be made high up on the left. The crux pitch now lies ahead. Emerge from the cave and straddle upwards until it is possible to move left facing in onto the slab. This move may be made at either of two levels. It is possible to traverse with the feet at the level of the top of the sloping slab, using sparse holds on the steep face above for the hands. Alternatively, ascend right to the overhang and traverse mainly on the hands using grips under the roof until a descent can be made in a small recess about 2,5m to the left, to the sloping slab. The crossing of the slab is delicate, but easier. A small stance can be made at the end of the slab climbing down slightly (piton), but it is safer to continue 12m upwards (18) and make a stance on a good ledge directly above the start of the slab. The move onto the slab would be very difficult to reverse. Time taken on original ascent was two hours.
1. 18 The grassy and vegetation-filled chimney may be ascended from the bottom of the face, obviating the original first pitch and abseil traverse.
|Lost Trail||16||***||First ascent: Jan 1938 R. Barry and J. Langmore.||Situated immediately opposite the usual lunch venue approximately 10m to 12m downstream (left) from SEPULCHRE. Easily recognised by the large gable-shaped (inverted V) overhang, the ascent through which is the crux of the climb.||1. 22m 16 Start from a pile of blocks. Ascend, traverse left, continue ascent and finish diagonally up to right to stance beneath overhang. Eye hole belay. This pitch is steep, with small holds. (The protection is poor.)
2. 22m 16 Ascend as high as possible in the crack below the overhang before traversing out over it. This traverse may be done to the right (Barry) or left (Langmore) gaining a ledge after ascent of easier rock for 9m or 15m respectively. 3. 22m 10 Continue up the broken face over which a number of routes may be chosen. Time taken on original ascent about 1,5 hours.
|Manitee||15,A2||First ascent: Jan 1969 A.D. Barley and R.P. Barley.||Above the Eel Pool (between CONSOLATION and LOST TRAIL) runs a parallel band of overhangs. Springing from a cave at 22m a thin crack slants through them. Start just upstream of the eel pool and scramble up 9m to a ledge below the cave.||1. 12m 13 Climb up easily until just below the cave where the rock steepens. Ascend a thin crack to a stance and belay in the cave.
2. 20m 15,A2 Climb out across the chimney in the roof. Use pegs to surmount the lip, then continue up the crack with pegs to below the second roof. Move out left onto the nose and easily up to a good stance (peg belay - junction with CONSOLOATION) (on first ascent, a belay was taken in etriers below the second roof and a peg used to surmount it. However after removing vegetation, neither the etrier stance nor this peg should be required.) 3. 22m 15 The crack line continues, but step right and climb a slab to an overhang then swing left to the crack. Climb this passing a bulge on good holds, then move easily to a wide ledge. (This pitch is partly on CONSOLATION) Scramble to top.
|Consolation||18||**||First ascent: 1952 D. Bell and F. Villa.||The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel Pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.||1. 12m 18 Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from LOST TRAIL. One man stance.
2. 22m 15 Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached. 3. 30m 7 Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.
|Big Void||19||*||First ascent: Nov 1978 A.D. Barley, L.P. Fatti and B. Gross.||Start on the true right hand side of the kloof just downstream from CONSOLATION. Start from the large boulder above the waterfall into the deep pool.||1. 20m 19 Climb up the shallow recess directly above the boulder for 3m then swing left around the corner using a good handhold to the start of a shallow line leading diagonally left. Traverse along this line (crux at 4m) to where it is possible to step down to a small stance.
2. 20m 15 Move back diagonally left to the highest point on pitch 1. From here climb directly up to about 3m below the line of overhangs. Traverse right for about 6m until almost at the first stance of CONSOLATION and then ascend 2m to a small stance. 3. 15m 15 Traverse left above the overhangs to a small stance in a groove (stance 2 on ACAPULCO). 4. 35m 17 As for pitch 3 of ACAPULCO.
|Apapulco||18||*||First ascent: Oct 1968 A.D. Barley and R.P. Barley.||The route starts immediately downstream of the "Big Deep Pool" and follows the steep wall immediately above it. The initial objective is a cave containing bushes, about 12m above the pool.||1. 20m 18 From the lower end of the pool, climb a gangway leading up left. Where this ends at a narrow ledge, climb the very steep wall above, moving slightly right, climb a short groove and move right into the cave.
2. 15m 18 Climb the crack at the back of the cave to a good thread in the roof. Using a peg (in place) in the right wall, make a long difficult swing to gain a small ledge on the arete. Follow a short groove up right, and step right to a small stance (immediately above the pool). 3. 37m 17 Climb straight up the steep wall above for 9m to a ledge where the angle of the wall eases. Traverse right and continue diagonally up right on good holds, until it is possible to climb up left to a large ledge. Scramble to the top. Variation: 2. 15m 19 Climb up the steep face in the right hand side of the cave moving right around the arete 3m up, to continue up the groove above.
|Crack-Attack||20||***||First ascent: Feb 1983 K.M. Smith and party.||A striking hand-crack situated on the south face of the eastern member of the Tweedledum & Tweedledee pair near the Eastern campsite above Tonquani.||1. 10m 20 Climb the crack.|
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
|Here be Salamanders||17||First ascent: 5 Dec 2003 Dylan Morgan and Adam Feldman.||This is on the south-facing cliffs above the southern access to Tonquani (above the farm Kruger's Kraal). 100-150m west of the nek, a vegetated gully cuts diagonally across the cliff band; about 40m further west, there is a prominent east-facing corner, with the left hand face highly fractured and a grove of bushes at the base.Note: Rock quality is suspect on this route.||1. 25m 17 Climb the shallow chimney/groove in the back of the corner to avoid the loose rock on the lower face. At about 5m, step left onto a narrow ledge. Continue diagonally up and left to reach the lowest portion of the top of the face.|
|Arctic Circle||13||First ascent: Jul 1976 J. Gregory and C. Ward.||Climb 30m left of GLUVINE up a short undercut wall. Continue up the corner edge of the wall topped by overhangs to a ledge with bushes. Belay some 5m from the top of the crag. Instead of taking the easy way off, traverse left at the same level for 20m, passing round a hawk's eye type of rock formation (13).|
|Gluvine||17||**||First ascent: Jul 1976 J. Gregory and C. Ward.||If approaching Tonquani from the south, the first rock is encountered on your left about 10 minutes walk after crossing the nek. Approx 35m high. The climb is up an obvious overhanging crack, situated right of a corner edge and a recess with small overhangs at the top. (100m upstream from GENESIS)||Climb a shallow open book which faces right moving slightly left to a ledge with a gnarled tree.
Climb the crack above through a series of small overhangs and up to a medium sized tree. Continue up a wall 3m left to the top.
|Cocksure Cecil Climbs Cautiously||16||**||First ascent: May 1994 T.P. Willmot, M.T. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||The route takes the first obvious line (faint groove to start followed by large roof, followed by open book at top of buttress) immediately downstream of the descent gully bounding the first big buttress on the left side of the approach from the south. The route starts approximately 20m upstream of FEELING GROOVY (cairn). An excellent short route on generally good rock.||1. 25m 16 Take off awkwardly and climb to the ledge (approximately 3m) above which is a large roof. Move slightly to the right and break through roof at the first opportunity. Move up to the short wall at the bottom of the obvious open book above. Wall has crack up centre leading to book. Climb this to establish a position at base of the book. Move up the book to a large ledge at the top of the buttress.|
|Treesy Does It||17||Tricky on crux, reasonably protected.||*||First ascent: May 1994 U. Kieker, M.T. Willmot and T.P. Willmot.||The route takes the first line approximately 5m upstream of FEELING GROOVY (cairn) on the first high buttress on the left side of the approach from the south. The route takes the steepish wall below the tree and attendant routes, thrutches through the tree, rises diagonally to the left to reach the comfortable stance above.||1. ?m 17 Take off awkwardly and move up to the tree. Fight through this and rise diagonally to the left to the base of the book above. Reach the base with difficulty by using the short handrail and lay away holds above. Stem across and move up to a comfortable ledge at base of short open book above.
2. 10m 11 Traverse to the right around corner to base of right slanting open book (under curtain of creepers). Move up open book to top of buttress.
|Feeling Groovy||18||***||First ascent: May 1990 F. Greig and T.P. Willmot.||The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of GENESIS on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south - Boggling climbing. Excellent climbing on steep clean rock.||1. 25m 18 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.|
|Genesis||23||****||First ascent: May 1983 A. Lambert and C. Edelstein.||If approaching Tonquani from the south, the first rock is encountered on your left about 10 minutes walk after crossing the nek. This climb follows an obvious smooth face, split by two rails and topped by huge stepped overhangs. Start on some stacked blocks at the left side of smooth face. Note: Seconds do not get a second chance so know how to prussik.||1. 22m 16 Starting about 5m right of the corner on the left hand side of the face, climb the face, tending right to avoid the overhang and continue up on good holds to the highest overhang which is split by a jam crack. Stance in chimney crack (good nuts) underneath the overhang.
2. 8m 23 Engage mind in reverse and jam through the overhang. Extremely strenuous, especially the last move to reach the lip. Pull through on good holds and up easy rock to the top.
|Gulliver's Travels||15||**||First ascent: Nov 1976 J. Gregory and C. Ward.||On the right hand side of the smooth face referenced by GENESIS, is a defined deep crack and chimney topped by a long overhang extending to the left.||1. 12m 13 Climb the crack to a stance under the overhang.
2. 20m 15 Traverse left for 4m - climb up into chimney formed by hanging rock, through the chimney and step left onto a face. Make a descending traverse left to a ledge and belay below an open book. 3. 10m 15 Climb the open book to the top.
|Defamation||13||First ascent: Aug 1955 O. Shipley, I. Cohen and R.W. Charlton.||This climb lies immediately to the left of PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE. It is improved by including the first pitch of SCANDAL.
From the top of the grey buttress climb a corner of ridge to the left of PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE for 6m. Then traverse 2m and climb a crack for 6m (11). The second pitch can be varied as desired.
|Photographers Route||6||*||First ascent: 1957 R. Davies and J. Clayton.||Opposite FENG'S FOLLY where the left hand side of the kloof curves up into Red Gully is a 25m high grey buttress surmounted by bush. The top of the buttress, which is approximately at the base of the main face, may be reached by walking up the bushy slope on either side. Directly above the buttress, in the main face, is an obvious, wide, broken recess which slopes up slightly to the right. Traverse left 3m and climb to the top. This recess provides a route which is clear-cut and clean, characteristics which are usually lacking in climbs of this standard in the Magaliesberg.||The average grade is 6. Total length 45m.|
|Nigel's New Rope||13||First ascent: May 1982 S. Middlemiss and N. Christian.||On left hand side of kloof there is a vertical face which is split by a crack, immediately to the right of PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE. The crack begins 3m above the start level and is marked by a tree.||1. 30m 13 Start 3m to the right of the base of the tree in a small gully. A long straddle is necessary to achieve the base of the crack. Climb crack until it widens and it is possible to move out onto a 0,5m wide ledge on the face. (This is about 7m up the crack and past a small overhang on the face.) Climb the face on good holds to top.|
|Short and Sweet||18||First ascent: Oct 1987 G. Myburgh and R. Georgeson-Gunn.||This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of SCANDAL, immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy recess.||1. 30m 18 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in its’ base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent "TM" style grips, at grade 15.|
|Concavity||15||First ascent: 1966 J. Anderson.||The start is marked by a large 3m high detached block at the base of the face, and a 15m high wrinkled apparently un-climbable slab.||1. 18m 15 Ascend a shallow recess on the left of the slab (3m 15). Alternatively start 2.5 m to the left, ascend a short way, then traverse right (13) into the recess. Continue to ledge.
2. 18m 10 Walk along the ledge (crossing SCANDAL) to the right to a red buttress. Ascend this buttress keeping to the left of a bush of creepers, and working around to the right higher up where the rock steepens.
|Kon-Tiki Ridge||7||First ascent: Oct 1971 M. Prior and R. Hoare.||The ridge forms the right hand edge of the descent gully between SCANDAL and DELUGE.||1. 43m 7 The route goes straight up the ridge.|
|Scandal||14||*||First ascent: Aug 1955 O. Shipley, I. Cohen and R.W. Charlton.||1. 18m 14 Climb the face of the grey buttress described under PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE.
2. 25m 13 Walk along the base of the face for 25m to base of a diagonal crack in vertical wall. The crack slopes up to the right. Ascend the crack to a cave. 3. 9m 8 Traverse 9m left from the cave to a ledge and stance. 4. 15m 8 Climb directly up to top up steepish face with good holds.
|Axe the Blighter||14||**||First ascent: Aug 1995 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||The route takes the kloof-high fault line immediately upstream (some 5m) of TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY - cairn. Rock quality is excellent. Descend via the steep gully mentioned in TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY.||1. 26m 14 Stem up the open book to start. Move up the easier fault line above to just before top of the kloof. Climb the knobbled face at the left to finish. Take a comfortable belay stance at the top.|
|Turkey Extra Ordinary||13||**||First ascent: Aug 1995 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||Some 30m upstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE is a free standing large column with a smooth face at front. If one ambles around and up the back of the free- standing column one comes across a hidden chimney in the main kloof wall. The route takes this to top - cairn. Rock quality is excellent. Descend via the steep gully immediately upstream of the top of the stance.||1. 25m 13 Approach the chimney from the gully. Climb the chimney to the first large ledge. Approach the second chimney and climb this exiting on the left. Take a comfortable belay stance in the custom built barber chair on the right of the exit.|
|Chimney Cricket||14||**||First ascent: Jun 1995 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||Climbs the obvious chimney to start and then the left leaning knobbly looking open book above. Starts some 10m upstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE - cairn. Rock quality is excellent. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE.||1. 26m 14 Climb the body-wide chimney to reach the open book above. Climb this to reach the stance with large tree. Finish here and scramble off or continue up line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.|
|Walk on the Wild Side||18||Protection on the crux is marginal.||**||First ascent: Jun 1995 U. Kiefer and T.P. Willmot.||Takes the second obvious crack system / open book upstream of the descent gully mentioned in WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, DYNO - cairn. All in all, bold climbing. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream.||1. 20m 8 Climb the easy crack / book up to the large ledge below the striking roof with a crack along its full width.
2. 10m 18 Climb the awkward bulge just upstream of the striking roof. This is difficult, exposed and poorly protected. Pull up the easier rock above to the comfortable stance on top.
|When All Else Fails, Dyno||16||***||First ascent: Jun 1995 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||Climbs the obvious, broken looking open book some 15m upstream of GRANDMA NOSE BEST. Start just upstream of a wild fig growing under a large wide roof about 10m up - cairn. An excellent, short route. Descend via the steep gully some 30m upstream of the route.||1. 26m 16 Amble up to the base of the steep broken looking open book. Get established in the base of the open book with difficulty. Stem up to easier ground above to reach a comfortable stance on top.|
|Grandma Nose Best||15||**||First ascent: Jun 1995 U. Kiefer and T.P. Willmot.||Climbs the first viable rock some 80m upstream of THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY. Takes the feint open book with two blank sections on the left containing wall to start. Moves up onto the prominent nose on the arete. Surmounts this and moves up onto the slab above to finish. Whilst the technical grade is 15, a fair amount of commitment / balls is / are required to surmount the crux.||1. 26m 15 Climb the feint open book past the first blank section on the left containing wall until forced left by the next blank section. Move up easier ground until it is possible to traverse right to reach the prominent nose. Pull up over this to reach the base of the slab above. Gain the slab, with difficulty, and move up this diagonally leftwards to reach a comfortable stance on top.|
|Last Train to Glory||21||3B, A||***||First ascent: 1990 R. Dodding. Bolted By D. Margetts.||Climbs a face 2-3m right of the arête. A number 2 or 3 rock is useful for the start of the climb. The bolts were inspected, and top anchors added 2005.|
|Cadbury||22||4B, A||**||First ascent: 1989 M. Cartwright and C. O'Dowd.||Start just right of the crack / recess. 3 of the bolts were replaced in 2005.|
|Nestle||23||3B, A||**||First ascent: 1989 M. Cartwright and C. O'Dowd.||Climb straight up the face to chains. The 3 bolts were replaced in 2005.|
|Beacon||18||2B||***||First ascent: 1989 M. Cartwright and C. O'Dowd.||Start 5m left of the pillar in a right leaning break. 2 bolts protect the face in mid section of the climb. Abseil off the tree and use trad gear to protect the first few meters.|
|African Sky Blue||24||3B||***||First ascent: 1989 M. Cartwright.||Start behind the pillar. Climb up the face and through the overlap above the second bolt. Abseil off the tree.|
|Magix||24||3B||****||First ascent: 1989 M. Seegers and D. Margetts.||Start behind the tree to the right of the pillar.|
|Smagix||2B||First ascent: None yet None yet||Project. Needs more bolts. Bolted by D. Margetts and M. Seegers.|
|Texbar||18||**||First ascent: 1990 D. Margetts, M. Seegers and A. Mercer.||A trad route climbing the recess to right of the slab.|
|Crunchie||19||1B||**||First ascent: 1990 D. Margetts, M. Seegers and A. Mercer.||Climb slab past bush.|
|Return of the Jedi||21||3B||***||First ascent: 1989 D. Margetts, T. Truter and M. Seegers.||Start 5m up the gully at a large tree partially blocking a narrow section of the gully. The bolts were inspected, and top anchors added 2005.|
|High Gully||5||An easy gully above CACTUS CRAG giving access to the top of the krantz and the shortest way out to upper Cedarberg Kloof.|
|ZAP||15||First ascent: Oct 1976 M. Prior and R. Hoare.||Situated about 10m downstream from the descent gully behind CACTUS CRAG and DELUGE, i.e. about 100m down from SCANDAL.||1. 20m 13 Ascend a broken face to a small tree in a chink. Break through the overhang and continue up to a ledge.
2. 23m 15 Move 2m right towards an obvious small crack. Ascend crack. Continue to top.
|Deluge||11||First ascent: 1966 M. Prior and H. Graafland.||1. 18m 11 Start opposite LOST TRAIL in an obtuse angled recess. Ascend 12m to top of small buttress on the right. Then move diagonally up to the left past a flat, poised block to a wide ledge. Walk to the left to where the ledge narrows. This point is opposite SEPULCHRE.
2. 12m 10 Traverse left along narrow ledge to crack which slants up to the right. Ascend to the top of the crack. Some scrambling is necessary to reach the top of the face.
|Cactus Crag||8||First ascent: Feb 1937 S. Le Roux and P. Houmoller.||Commences just above swimming pool adjacent to lunch venue.||Route of least resistance is followed until a smooth chimney is reached on the left hand side. This constitutes the first difficult pitch. From there a diagonal face is climbed, bearing right (8) to a prominent pinnacle. The usual route is up this, bearing right, although the face immediately above is interesting. There is plenty of scope for variation.|
|LT Prostitute's Crack||22||**||First ascent: Oct 1985 P. Schlotfeldt and G. Graafland.||The route is located on the buttress directly opposite to ALCHEMY and LAST RITES.||1. 25m 17 Climb the face directly below the steep wall with a white staining leading down from a set of roofs.
2. 30m 22 Once on the ledge start at the right hand recess (open book) and move up and to the left onto a thin crack system. Move right past a peg up to a set of roofs. Move left to face the roofs and traverse left around the corner to a good belay. Variation: G. Mallory straightened the line by going straight up the wall on the arete after the traverse left under the roofs.
|The Skinny White Bear||23||*||First ascent: Jun 1985 S. Bradshaw.||Takes the overhanging crack in the large boulder opposite ROCK SPIRIT/ALCHEMY.||1. 32m 23 Climb the very overhanging crack to a sloping ledge. Continue up two more short steep sections to where it is possible to traverse off right on a large sloping ledge.|
|Trepidation||11||*||First ascent: May 1955 R. Kinsley, S. Baron and P. Weinberg.||The climb starts from the large boulder which separates the Eel Pool and Big Pool. i.e. opposite CONSOLATION||1. 23m 10 Climb up a steep diagonal ledge which steps up to a tree about 11m above stream bed and 6m upstream from starting point. Then ascend open book for 4,5m and 6m up face to the right of the open book to a grassy ledge with tree.
2. 22m 7 Climb a 3m chimney about 3m upstream from tree, followed by 18m up face to right of chimney to another tree belay on large ledge. 3. 15m 11 Ascend 4,5m behind belay point to the ledge. Then traverse left along ledge to tree belay at foot of pinnacle. 4. 14m 11 Climb 8m up outer face of pinnacle. Traverse 3m to right from top of pinnacle into an open book. Follow this to the top.
|Vorpal Sword||22||**||First ascent: Aug 1989 K.M. Smith.||Starts directly downstream of the crux of the Help-Help traverse.||1. 15m 22 Start in the right facing recess, climb this and the continuation crack line up the wall.|
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
The kloof name derives from the unusual rock formations in the area which are reminiscent of those found in the Cape Cedarberg.
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
|Sunday Stroller||11||***||First ascent: Mar 1988 A. Mercer, D. Margetts and M. Seegers.||This climb ascends a prominent arete 300m upstream from the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. The route is situated just downstream of a deep pool. A small free standing pinnacle lies just downstream of the start. Scramble up to the start.||1. 25m 11 Climb the arete passing a small overhang about two thirds up.|
|The Psyche Factor||17||*||First ascent: Mar 1988 M. Seegers, D. Margetts and A. Mercer.||The climb ascends the face downstream of SUNDAY STROLLER. A prominent off-width crack marks the upper section of the climb.||1. 20m 17 Climb the face up to an overhang. Move right to below an off-width crack. Ascend the crack and continue on easier rock to top of crag.|
|Pluto||20||***||First ascent: Mar 1988 D. Margetts, A. Mercer, M. Seegers, T. Holt and D. Hartley.||This climb ascends the thin face 1m right of ALABASTER||1. 23m 20 Climb the thin face 1m right of ALABASTER.|
|Alabaster||19||***||First ascent: Mar 1988 D. Margetts, A. Mercer and M. Seegers.||Situated 2m right of STYX.||1. 23m 19 Climb the overhang and continue up the face to the top of the crag.|
|STYX||18||adequate protection using small wires||***||First ascent: Mar 1988 M. Seegers, T. Truter, D. Margetts and A. Mercer.||This climb is situated about 100m upstream of the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. It is characterized by a smooth sloping slab with an overhang halfway up the slab and a crack running up the top section.||1. 23m 18 Climb directly up the thin face on the left of the corner, towards the overhang. Break through the overhang to below a crack. Ascend the crack above the overhang to the top of the crag.|
|Solidarity||17||First ascent: Aug 1981 N. Cleaver and R. Cleaver.||To the right of the SLIPSTREAM / EASY LIVING buttress there is a gully which can be used as a descent (short abseil). On the right of this gully is a buttress and right again is broken ground. Start at the lowest point of the buttress next to a short crack leading to a short wall.||1. 35m 17 Climb crack, step left, climb wall by recess (thin), past sapling to a large ledge with a large block (possible stance). From the top of the block continue upwards on front of buttress to hand jam crack splitting a bulge. Pull over rightward to reach a small ledge, and climb onto large flat topped block. Step up onto wall behind block, moving left into overhanging crack and exit to belay ledge by an unusual move.|
|Conan, The Librarian||18||Protection is good||**||First ascent: Aug 1992 T.P. Willmot and P.J. Duggan.||Just upstream of the SLIPSTREAM buttress is an abseil descent gully. 9m upstream of this, the cliff turns back towards the stream bed. The route ascends the open book so formed and has as objective, the clean, crisp, open book visible high up.||1. 23m 14 Climb the groove pulling over the large chockstone. Amble up the gully and pull over the second block to a large comfortable ledge at the base of the clean steep open book with finger crack in corner.
2. 16m 18 Take off with difficulty and layback, stem, jam up the crack and through the bulge above. Exit right at top of book.
|Easy Living||15||First ascent: Aug 1981 N. Cleaver and R. Cleaver.||Starts 4m upstream and around corner to SLIPSTREAM, at a crack in wall leading to perched block.||1. 37m 15 Climb crack past block, move diagonally left to SLIPSTREAM. Almost immediately traverse right onto nose of buttress by a sharp foot rail. Up wall to loose blocks, step right and climb up to overhangs (junction with SLIPSTREAM). Step right, pull over overhang onto slab with good holds, continue to second overhang. Step left and climb the break to top of pinnacle.|
|Slipstream||18||well protected||****||First ascent: Jun 1978 J. Brown, P. Dawson and M. Fagan.||Start at the base of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the meetspot. If approaching from the top end of the kloof, this is the first climbable rock to reach the streambed on the true right hand side. The route follows the corner just to the right of a thin arete. Has a variety of technical moves on good rock and is well protected.||1. 35m 18 Ascend in corner on right hand side of prominent rib for 5m until forced out right by overhang (2m 18). Stand on narrow rail on right and bridge up until able to swing right into resting place (5m 17). Climb up to layback crack and either layback (3m) to ledge or layback until able to move right and then up to ledge. From ledge swing left and then mantleshelf. Follow crack on good holds to summit.
Variation: Starting off the block 3 meters right of the original, corner start to SLIPSTREAM, below the blunt arete. 1. 8m 18 Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete. Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge. Good gear in rails. Fun. (1 April 2001 Russ Dodding and Heather Murch.)
|Barbara Streissand||23||***||First ascent: Jul 1989 P. Lazarus.||This route is a SLIPSTREAM eliminate. Although only the second part of the route is new, the new section offers powerful moves in a fairly "airy" position on excellent rock.||1. 30m 23 Starts as for SLIPSTREAM. Through the crux of SLIPSTREAM and where SLIPSTREAM moves right, climb the awkward corner as for RHYTHM OF YOUTH. Reach up and clip the pegs above the bridge of the "nose" (hence the name). Surmount the nose (crux) and climb directly up the steep wall exiting slightly left and onto the ledge.|
|Rhythm of Youth||27||Two friend 1.5's for the crux||*****||First ascent: Mar 1989 P. Lazarus.||Starts up SLIPSTREAM.||1. 35m 27 Just after the crux of SLIPSTREAM, SLIPSTREAM avoids the awkward corner and moves right. RHYTHM OF YOUTH moves into this corner and up to the roof. Traverse left to the arete and then diagonally up left to a ledge. From the ledge move diagonally up right and up to a steep but fairly easy crack to another ledge. Traverse left 3m to the very steep white crack (noticeable from the ground). Climb the crack and make hard moves through the roof and onto the short wall above. Climb this and exit onto the ledge with rap tree.|
|The Damage Done||20||***||First ascent: Mar 1984 K.M. Smith and M. Smith.||The climb takes the arete leading to the top of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the Boulder Kloof meet point. Start midway between IPSO FACTO and SLIPSTREAM. For more exciting climbing, follow the arete from ground level i.e. start 1m to the left of SLIPSTREAM.||1. 30m 20 Climb the recess and, before reaching the birdshit streaked rock, traverse right across a slab to the base of the final orange arete. Climb steeply to the top.|
|Pigeon Alley||19||**||First ascent: Nov 1984 G. Mallory and C. Lesley-Smith.||The route is situated on a very impressive buttress about 20m upstream of COMANICI. It follows a corner, then chimney between IPSO FACTO and THE DAMAGE DONE.||1. 30m 19 Climb the corner to a roof, move 1m right and enter the chimney above. Climb up to huge chockstone before exiting on the left.|
|Ipso Facto||16||*||First ascent: Mar 1984 K.M. Smith and M. Smith.||Follows the recess running the height of the cliff between the sloping grey arete and the overhanging red buttress upstream of the Boulder Kloof campsite. Start about 3m to the right of PLANXTY.||1. 30m 15 Climb the recess for about 15m, step right, and continue up the right hand, narrow, open book. Pull through onto a blocky ledge and climb the final corner to the top.|
|Planxty||19||***||First ascent: May 1981 P. Douglas and N. Cleaver.||Start at base of wall forming right hand side of the prominent grey arete a few metres upstream of the Boulder Kloof Campsite.||1. 35m 19 Climb centre of wall to reach arete just below small overhang (existing bolt runner). Continue up arete and slab until possible to move left to good resting ledge. Better holds lead to second overhang. Move awkwardly left around this and right around final overhang and up short wall to large platform. Scramble up easy rock to top.|
|Enemy Within||21||***||First ascent: 1988 M. Townsend.||Takes the roof that PLANXTY circumnavigates and the slab above.||1. 35m 21 Start at the right hand side of the PLANXTY slab 1m left of IPSO FACTO. Climb up to roof via subsidiary corner, pull through and trend left to join PLANXTY as it enters final roofs. Finish as for PLANXTY.|
|Psychdelirium||20||**||First ascent: Dec 1983 S. Mallory and G. Mallory.||This route is a significant variation to FREE WORLD. It starts 4m upstream of COMANICI. The start is common to FREE WORLD.||1. 25m 20 Climb up a crack behind a tree to a roof. Traverse right 2m then pull through a V in the roof to stance.
2. 15m 13 Scramble uncomfortably up to easy ground.
|Free World||19||First ascent: Aug 1981 N. Cleaver and R. Cleaver.||4m right of COMANICI in a prominent V-groove in the overhangs. Start at the crack in the lower slabs behind the tree.||1. 22m 19 Climb crack and V-groove until stopped by the over-hang. Hand-traverse left (peg runner) to small foothold by aloe. Pull into groove and continue for a few metres until a step right gives a good stance.
2. 15m 9 Climb groove and then the broken ground above.
|Comamici||15, A2||Aid pins/ cheat stick required||***||First ascent: 1976 Unknown German climber.||The climb is situated approximately 150-200m up Boulder Kloof, directly above the Boulder Kloof meet spot. The feature is a prominent 3m roof situated about 15m up, above steep slabs. Note:
1. All aid used to be in place and consists of short pins placed into pre-drilled holes. 2. One of the pins has fallen out – take a cheat stick if you are short.
|1. 20m 15,A2 Climb directly up to the corner beneath the roof where there is a foothold stance (15). Reach far over to the right to the first fixed piton. A simple series of about 8 aid moves on fixed pitons leads around the overhang to a small stance.
2. 15m 8 Follow the obvious line to the top of the cliff.
|Comanici View||7||*||First ascent: Jul 1984 A. Heher, B. Riley and W. Gousen.||Situated 10m downstream of COMANICI a direct clean route is available, avoiding grade 5 vegetated rock on the left and, higher up, on the right. Note: The climb provides a pleasant beginners route on clean rock with reasonable exposure for the grade of climbing. Spectacular views of the A2 section of COMANICI can be obtained from the final pitch, so take your camera.||1. 44m 7 Climb straight up face (or on corner) for full rope length.
2. 8m 7 Scramble out straight up (5) or more enjoyably, walk 20m right behind a stubby pinnacle and climb short chimney.
|Epic Refusal||8||First ascent: Jun 1978 M. Fagan and P. Dawson.||Start 40m downstream of the Boulder Kloof meet spot. Start below a prominent right-angled open book with a tree in it about 15m above the start. Note: To right of route is a white grassy slab of approximately grade 5 extending to top. This provides an easy ascent or descent route out of the kloof.||1. 30m 8 Start at tree on right below an easy face on left. Ascend 2m up face, traverse left and up recess and crack to tree with exposed roots.|
|Red Rag||19||**||First ascent: Jul 1981 P. Douglas and M. Brunke.||Takes the obvious crack and clean steep wall right of TRIO.||1. 45m 19 Follow crack easily until it trends to the right. Move up and slightly left to reach large white hand-hold under overhang. From here bridge across to reach grip on left edge of overhang and make a difficult swing to reach tree in gully. Continue up slab on right of gully to ledge. Move right to base of crack in upper face. Climb this and wall above on progressively better holds direct to top.|
|Blood and Chocolate||18||****||First ascent: 1988 P. Lazarus.||Start under the big roof immediately to the right of TRIO.||1. 20m 18 Climb up the crack in the corner to the base of the roof. Move out under the roof to the right and pull through the roof on good holds onto the headwall. Climb up to the big ledge shared with TRIO. Finish as for TRIO.|
|Trio||10||***||First ascent: Mar 1965 R. Reid, T. Malleson and Miss E. Storrar.||Situated in Boulder Kloof, about 150m upstream from the Lower Tonquani junction, there is a large open book which continues to the top of the cliff. The right hand side of the open book offers an unattractive overgrown grey face but the left hand side offers a clean red face diagonally cut from left to right by a slanting chimney-like crack.||1. 25m 10 Up this crack via short chimney to tree belay.
2. 25m 10 From tree traverse left for 6m on to exposed face. Up face 9m bearing left, then on easier rock to top.
|Raging Bull||20||****||First ascent: Jun 1981 P. Douglas and N. Cleaver.||A bold sustained route on excellent rock taking the centre of the steep clean red face left of TRIO.||1. 45m 20 Start left of the TRIO chimney below small overhang. Climb up to overhang and traverse right towards chimney. Ascend wall just left of chimney passing small tree on its left to where chimney goes diagonally right (5m). Traverse 2m left to below smooth steep part of face with thin finger layaway on left. Climb this tending slightly right to reach good horizontal break (crux) then strenuously to top on increasingly larger holds.|
|El Matador||21||***||First ascent: Jan 1990 S. Middlemiss, W. Jenkins and R. Dodding.||Climbs the arete to the left of RAGING BULL. Note: The route as climbed and graded never moves more than 1m from the arete.||1. 40m 21 Climb straight up the arete past a peg and then to the top.|
|Lancelot||17||***||First ascent: Oct 1981 J. Cheesemond and M. Brunke.||Downstream and on the same side as the aid roof (COMANICI) is a prominent face (RAGING BULL). To the left of the arete are two open books, a long on the right and a short one on the left.||1. 40m 17 Climb to the base of the long open book. Climb it and exit to the left after 15m.|
|Excalibur||17||**||First ascent: Oct 1981 J. Cheesemond and M. Brunke.||Climbs the short open book left of LANCELOT.||1. 40m 17 Climb up to the base of the short (left hand) open book. Climb it for 3m and then swing out left. Continue to top.|
|Dogradrious||17||***||First ascent: Apr 1984 K. Kruger and C. Edelstein.||The climb follows an obvious curving crack 1,5m to the right of GREGARIOUS.||1. 20m 17 From the same start as GREGARIOUS, trend right to the base of the steep crack, which is followed as it veers right to a tree.|
|Grangarious||17||*||First ascent: circa 1988 U. Kiefer and H. Vogl.||1. 20m 17 From the stance common with DOGRARIOUS and GREGARIOUS ascent broken corner on the left und follow open book above to top.|
|Gregarious||18||***||First ascent: May 1979 G. Lacey and K.M. Smith.||After walking up Boulder Kloof for about 100m, the foot of the rock cuts back on the left. Set back above the lower cliffs is a prominent red pinnacle/buttress, with an appealing crack in its centre.||1. ?m 13 Scramble up clean grade 8 gully on the right, to the base of the red buttress, or find the motivation to climb through steep rock on the left (13).
2. 20m 18 Climb the crack (moving left if necessary halfway up) to the summit.
|Gregarious Variation||19||First ascent: Dec 1983 G. Mallory and S. Mallory.||About 10m downstream of the spectacular GREGARIOUS crack is an overhanging brown wall. This provides a suitable first pitch to the route. Start in a square corner that faces upstream.||1. 35m 19 Climb the corner for about 4m then move diagonally right until able to ascend using wide straddles up steep rock. About 4m above the chimney, traverse left to a ramp and then back diagonally right. From the top of the pitch scramble right 10m to the base of the GREGARIOUS crack pitch.|
|Weekend Disaster||13||First ascent: Jun 1981 N. Cleaver and R. Cleaver.||Starts 5m upstream of BARDOT in a small rocky bay capped by an overhang.||1. 38m 13 Climb the crack to the left of the crack leading to the overhang, stepping left to a ledge at 7m. Go up a few meters and climb the left wall of the corner by some cracks for 5m until a step back into corner can be made. Follow the corner to the top with steps onto the left wall to avoid vegetation.|
|Crossroads||17||*||First ascent: Sep 1989 D. Margetts, A. Mercer and M. Seegers.||Takes the steep slab 2m left of WEEKEND DISASTER. Note: One can escape onto easier ground by traversing left or right.||1. 15m 17 Climb up the middle of the slab to gain a ledge. Traverse left to a convenient abseil tree or continue up on easy rock to the top of the crag.|
|Bardot||13||First ascent: Jul 1971 N.N. Heidstra and R.D. Hoare.||About 100m up Boulder Kloof from its junction with Tonquani Kloof, the river bed rises considerably. On the left hand side facing upstream, a dark 6m chimney is found in a corner where the line of the river scree meeting the rock face levels off. The climb is situated 20m to the right of this, just to the right of a tangle of roots on the face.||1. 22m 13 Climb a chimney which has smooth parallel sides to a small ledge with tree belay.
2. 9m 11 Climb the 3m open book above, and then either traverse off left onto loose scree, or continue up a corner with a good crack in it a further 6m.
|Scoobey-Doo||19||Protection is sometimes hard to find.||**||First ascent: Jul 1986 P.S. Greenfield, R. Dodding and T. Willmot.||The route starts 4m left of BARDOT in an obvious corner, with a large ledge 4m up on the left. The route ascends the groove on the right wall, immediately above the corner.||1. 35m 19 Ascend to the large ledge, enter the groove and follow it past the tree to the second overhang. The crux is getting through the first overhang/bulge. At the second overhang traverse right onto the arete, and then up to a tree belay.|
|Catch that Turd||17||First ascent: Jul 1986 T.P. Willmot, P.S. Greenfield and R. Dodding.||Starts 10m downstream of BARDOT in deep chimney where crag forms major open book, before descending tree lined face to stream bed.||1. 25m 17 Ascend chimney until large ledge is reached, Look left into large square recess. Ascend recess by straddling to resting place (crux). Climb indifferent right tending off-width crack to ledge with tree belay.|
|Pisa-Piz||17||*||First ascen||3m right of BARDOT are twin parallel off-widths. Start at the base of these.||1. 40m 17 Climb the off-widths and continue up the small corner formed by the slab on the left and several, leaning loose-sounding blocks on the right. At the top of the corner and on reaching a little loose rock move 1m right directly up the wall for 10m. Belay on a tree.|
|Fame, Fortune and Glory||27||Fully retrobolted in 2005||*****||First ascent: Nov 1988 R. Nattrass.||Starts opposite DOGMATIC. Scramble up a gully to reach the base of steep red wall.||1. 10m 27 Start at the poor peg. Up to a rail and then to a 2nd and 3rd rail passing two bolts. Rail left and finish up a vague crack.|
|Borderline||18||**||First ascent: Sep 1989 D. Margetts, M. Seegers and A. Mercer.||This climb ascends the short steep buttress on the right as one descends the scree ramp in Boulder Kloof just below BARDOT. Note: It is easy to scramble off to the right after the first pitch.||1. 10m 18 Climb directly up the face and pull through the overhang.
2. 20m 16 Climb up the easy face above to a ledge below a steeper face. Climb this face to a ledge with tree on the right.
|Bridge of Sighs||18||**||First ascent: July 1986 P.S. Greenfield, T.P. Willmot and R. Dodding.||The route starts 5m upstream of POSEIDON, at the base of a rightward slanting ramp, and follows this line to a large ledge and broken ground. Note: The ground above the first pitch is broken and did not appear to offer good climbing. The opening party traversed off to the right. Alternatively, there are plenty of abseil points.||1. 30m 18 Climb the rightward slanting ramp to its end, then bearing slightly right continue up to the ledge, and belay point.|
|Poseidon||17||**||First ascent: Jul 1980 A. Wood, D. Hunter and C. Ward.||Start approximately 30m up from the junction of Lower Tonquani, on the opposite side from VERTIGO and SABER.||1. 20m 15 Step up from the stream onto a short wall (3m). Climb to a ledge with a small tree and recess behind. Climb diagonally right, up two ramps to a large recess and ledge. Swing around left and traverse left to a broken crack, up 3m and move over left to a small ledge.
2. 15m 17 From a poorly protected stance, move back right and climb crack running up a slab to just below an overhang. Move right onto an overhanging wall. Climb straight up to a large ledge. Either belay near the exit or traverse left to a tree sticking out. 3. 30m 13 From the tree sticking horizontally out, move slightly left and up a short step, onto the left hand side of the buttress above. Climb the well-weathered face moving over to left, up an arete to a ledge and tree belay. Continue to top in an easy cleft.
|That's It||13||First ascent: Sep 1974 G. Langmore, D. Anderson and G. Baldwin||Start directly opposite VERTIGO in Boulder Kloof.||1. 45m 6 Scramble up a small gully to base of recess with a small tree.
2. 23m 13 From tree (possibly with aid of small tree) angle left to slightly overhanging crack. Ascend crack onto ]edge then ascend overhanging bulge to further ledge. Walk left to corner to belay point. 3. 18m 11 Ascend recess to large tree. 4. 30m 8 Continue up recess past tree then up on left face or keep right and scramble to the top.
|Route Name||Grade||Protection||Rating||Opening Info||Description||Pitch Description|
|Don't close yet||17||***||First ascent: Sep 1985 I. Guest and T. Hoole.||Situated just upstream of the IRON SOUL buttress opposite SLIPSTREAM in an alcove. Three short cracks are visible on the left hand side of the alcove. The route follows the left hand one up a very smooth half closed open book.||1. 10m 17 Climb the open book using the hand jam crack (awkward) to top.|
|Iron Soul||First ascent: 23 Jan 1982 M. Brunke, P. Douglas. First free ascent in Nov 1984 by G. Mallory||Opposite SLIPSTREAM and PLANXTY. To the left of the big double roots is a steep buttress (Zeus Buttress), split by a buttress higher up.||1. 30m 20 Climb the fingertip crack/groove to below the bulge, traverse left to the arete (platform) and climb diagonally right on white rock. Continue up easily and climb the right hand edge of the face above.
Variation: 1. 30m 21 Climb straight through the overhanging section. (28 Apr 1985 K.M. Smith and G. Mallory)
|Twilight of Idols||22, A1||Opened using one rest above the overhang. First ascent: Dec 1984 M. and O. Brunke.||Opposite SLIPSTREAM, and further upstream, is a rock buttress with two large, triangular roofs. IRON SOUL climbs a steep buttress to the left of these roofs. TWILIGHT OF IDOLS climbs a roof with a jam-crack between the steep buttress and the twin roofs.||1. 35m 22,A1 Climb up a short corner directly below the jam crack in the roof and traverse right for 2m. Continue up the recess above (there is a tree root growing diagonally right across the face) and climb through the 2m roof. Continue to top.|
|Gorilla's Pinnacle||17||First ascent: 1972 P. Dawson and T. Hoy.||In Boulder Kloof there is a pinnacle with a mushroom head on the right hand side as you go up, just before the campsite.||1. 12m 17 You may choose your own route - the only existing one for a normal human is a crack (small recess - very small) which is really an indentation on the side of the mushroom. Last move is 17.|
|The Show must go on||16||***||First ascent: 4 Sep 1994 T.P. Willmot and U. Kiefer.||Located just before the kloof starts dropping steeply. Slightly downstream of and opposite of RAGING BULL is a downstream facing, clean looking open book about a third of the height of the kloof with an obvious large chockstone about two thirds of the way up the book. Climb this.||1. 23m 16 Start at the base of the open book. Move up a tricky bit to reach the tree at 3m. Pass this and stem up the open book to reach the chockstone. Clear this on the left and climb up, more easily, to reach the tree belay on the big ledge above.
2. 24m 8 Stand on the block above the belay ledge and move up diagonally rightwards to reach the large ledge above.
|Flasher||10||First ascent: May 1983 D. Scott and R. Fox.||Opposite BARDOT and diagonally upstream from the long roots descending into the kloof is an easy-looking fault running to the top of the krantz. Start on a shelf in grey rock (beacon). Note: Short persons may find the grade harder.||1. 25m 8 Climb diagonally right at first to a tree and then up, passing a cave-like recess and on to a still bigger cave/recess.
2. 25m 10 Climb the chimney above. The top half requires bridging as the holds are rounded.
|Advanced Walking||20||**||First ascent: Nov 1984 G. Mallory and S. Isabeck. Notes: 1. Opening party used one rest. 2. First free ascent by K. Smith (onsight).||The route starts approximately 50m upstream of DOGSTYLE on the true left hand side of the kloof. The opposite side of the kloof has a smooth grey slab festooned with roots. The first stance is 3m above the stream bed and is at the base of a deep recess. There is an obvious layback/flake crack halfway up the face above.||1. 30m 20 Climb onto the face 2m right of the belay tree. Continue straight up to under a small roof. Climb the crack above, moving 1m right where it end, Move more easily up to the top.|
|Return of The Demon King||18||***||First Ascent: S. Middlemiss and M. Cartwright. (A large root that was in the groove then is now gone).||Start as for ADVANCED WALKING. Note: Some other guys "opened" this route 6 months after the FA and "named it" Silent Runner.||1. 35m 18 Climb up diagonally right over unprotected slab to the groove between ADVANCED WALKING and DOGMATIC. Climb groove and juggy wall above.|
|Dogmatic||22||***||First ascent: May 1985 A.M. Maddison and A. Mercer.||Approximately 50m upstream from DOGSTYLE, on the same side of the kloof, an open book may be seen above a large grassy ledge. The route follows the open book and layback crack above to a ledge, then ascends a second open book to top.||1. 22m 22 Scramble/traverse to grassy ledge 10m above stream level. From the grassy ledge chimney or straddle up open book, passing a small bulge, to reach more positive holds above. Ascend crack to ledge with a small tree belay.
2. 40m 11 From the ledge ascend easy rock to a second ledge then traverse light for 4m to the base of a second open book. Ascend open book to top. A pleasant pitch.
|Smooth Operator||23||***||First ascent: Sep 1988 S. Middlemiss.||Starts 4m left (upstream) of ROUGH DIAMOND from the same ledge (cairn).||1. 20m 23 Take off up the steep wall leading vaguely left until you can move onto the slab to the left of the thin crack. Climb straight up past the bolt runner to easier ground, which is followed to a ledge with abseil tree.|
|Walkies||23||****||First ascent: Jun 1985 A.M. Maddison, A.J. Mercer and R. Brand. First free ascent in Nov 1985 by K.M. Smith and C. Edelstein.||Immediately downstream of DOGMATIC is an overhanging open book. The route follows this. Scramble up to the large ledge below the overhang to start.||1. 25m 23 Ascend open book to the easier wall above. Three points of aid were used to pass the section where the open book peters out (opening ascent). Stance as for DOGMATIC.
2. 40m 11 Finish as for DOGMATIC. From the ledge ascend easy rock to a second ledge then traverse light for 4m to the base of a second open book. Ascend open book to top. A pleasant pitch.
|Dirty Dog||19||***||First ascent: Dec 1983 C. Edelstein, A. Lambert and A.J. Smith.||This route starts from the same ledge as DOGSTYLE, about 20m upstream. Note: Sustained mild face climbing.||1. 30m 19 Climb the obvious broken recess tending diagonally up and right near the top to reach good jugs.|
|The Shrapnel Academy||24||***||First ascent: 1989 R. Nattrass.||1. 15m 24 Climb up the wall past two bolts|
|Style Council||22||First ascent: Nov 1988 S. Middlemiss, R. Natrass and M. Cartwright.||Climbs the corner 5m upstream from DOGSTYLE.||1. 30m 22 Climb the corner.|
|Dogstyle||23||*****||First ascent: Sep 1983 A. Lambert and C. Edelstein. The leader in the opening party used 3 rests but the route was followed with 2 rests on nuts. Climbed without rests by S. Bradshaw and A. Jardin in July 1994.||This route starts on a yellow buttress 50m upstream of SABER on the same side of the kloof. It takes the obvious bottomless crack on the yellow face. The crack thins out after about 4m and the route then continues up the faint line to the top of the buttress. A peg is placed about 10m up. Scramble up to the base of the route in a shallow cave.||1. 40m 23 Climb 4m up to the bottomless crack. Climb the crack to where it thins and then make hard moves to a finger-lock hole. Another hard move to the peg and then the crux move past the peg. From here move up tending left on good but tiring holds to a rest off a hand-jam. Then back diagonally up right to the large flake and a hands-off (almost) rest. Move right onto the flake and easily (all things being relative) to the top.|
|Red Neck||14||***||First ascent: May 1981 P. Douglas and N. Cleaver.||Start 30m left of SABER below series of large ledges.||1. 25m 8 Ascend ledges tending diagonally right to reach platform below arete, level with start of SABER crack. (This is the scramble used to reach DOGSTYLE) Move right around arete to reach recess and tree belay.
2. 15m 14 Follow obvious crack in corner at back of recess to top. Note: Pitch 2 was first climbed as a variation to SABER in Jun 1980 by C.Wood and C. Ward.
|Yellow Belly||17||No protection on the initial 15m of the first pitch. Thereafter protection is good.||****||First ascent: May 1987 P.S. Greenfield, T.P. Willmot and S. Kelsey.||Start at tree growing in sandy area 3m left of the start for SABRE. This is below a buttress with a tree 12m up, and topped by a series of deep overhangs. Note: Pitch 2 was first climbed as a variation to SABER in Jun 1980 by C.Wood and C. Ward.||1. 35m 17 Climb the face of the buttress, keeping in line with the tree. Skirt the tree on the right, and then follow the crack line to the left hand side of the overhangs. Move through the first overhang by getting up under the roof, and traversing right for 3m, and the second by climbing the ramp. Easy ground follows. Belay on ledge on the left - same as for RED NECK.
2. 36m 12 Climb the obvious v-shaped groove immediately left of the corner/recess that RED NECK takes.
|Saber||19||****||First ascent: Apr 1980 D. Hunter and C. Ward.||Start approximately 30m up on the right hand side from the Tonquani junction.||1. 25m 13 Climb a slab in a recess to about 3m below some overhangs. Traverse right across a wall to easy ground. Climb a short corner to a large ledge. Either continue up an edge left of some tree roots or move to another corner and up and back on ledge of jumbled blocks below a crack sweeping up red-brown wall.
2. 20m 19 Climb up the crack until it opens into a shallow recess situated 3m below the belay stance. Move over left and up. Belay. Excellent jam crack climbing. 3. 15m 13 To add good climbing, move right under the overhang above the stance and climb up through a V-slot. Traverse slightly left to a nose. Swing up over the nose and continue to some large blocks.
|Be a Robot for Jesus||19||****||First ascent: May 1987 T.P. Willmot and S. Kelsey. The leader took a rest on the second pitch on the opening ascent.||Takes a direct line some 3 metres to the right of the start of SABER. Scramble up from stream bed to base of short A-shaped book with smooth slab to left and capped by bulge (large tree peeled away from face at base of book). Superb climbing on a good line.||1. 35m 17 Climb up the A-shaped book as far as possible. Step onto smooth slab on left and follow the line of the bulge around until the base of a short open book can be reached. Ascend this and then the face above to the large ledge below the overhangs. Move up short thin wall above to gain the jam-crack through the roof on the downstream side of the protruding nose. Pull through to gain the large detached block above. Stance at the same level as RED NECK.
2. 36m 19 Climb the crack immediately above the stance. This ascends the right hand wall of the deep book, the root of which forms RED NECK. Gain the cubbyhole below the roof with difficulty. Break left under the roof to gain the chicken-head face on the left. Follow the shallow groove above to the abseil tree at the top of RED NECK.
|Boulder Spiral||13||***||First ascent: Circa 1939 T. Bright and C. Nicholls.||Situated in Boulder Kloof on the left hand side going down and starting about 25m from the junction with Tonquani Kloof. A large network of monkey rope which has fallen from the face identifies the start of the climb. The climb veers towards the right and ends on the corner formed by Tonquani and Boulder Kloof. Scramble over the monkey rope to a wide ledge. Note: The first pitch may be wet in summer - grading may increase.||1. 28m 13 Ascend for about 18m to the left of a ridge of rock which slopes up to the left. At the level of a chockstone in the corner formed by the ridge traverse right on to the face above the ridge. Work diagonally up to the right (two or three good moves) to a ledge below a large overhang. This is the crux pitch of the climb.
2. 18m 10 Commence at the right hand edge of a ledge above a series of blocks which consist of a short bottomless chimney ending on a platform. 3. 12m 10 A V-shaped recess of about 12m immediately above the platform. Large tree juts out from top of this pitch - past which the route passes on to a ledge below a further chimney. Alternatively, climb the face on right. 4. 15m 10 From here, two routes are possible: a) The first continues up the recess to a bush about 8m above the platform, at which point the climber steps out to the right and pivots on his left foot around the nose of a face on the right, whence 3m of climbing brings one to the large ledge. b) Alternatively, start from the platform and immediately get on to the rather exposed face on the right of the platform from which point 12 to 15m of steep climbing brings one past the pivot to the same platform as terminates the first alternative.
|Lost Arrow||20||First ascent: May 1989 C. Curzon, S. Middlemiss and M. Gowans.||Climbs the slabs just below SABER (to the right of BOULDER SPIRAL). Scramble 5m to a ledge.||1. 20m 20 From ledge move up to some blocks, traverse 3m right to below thin crack with small roof at 5m. Climb the crack to the top.|
|Desperate Dog||21||***||First ascent: Nov 1984 K.M. Smith and C. Edelstein.||Scramble to the large ledge at the base of SABER'S final 19 crack. Note: The piton protecting the crux was placed on abseil. The pitch is harder for shorter persons.||1. 25m 21 Traverse about 5m right to beneath the obvious left-leaning dihedral. Climb up the dihedral until a move to the right can be made. Continue straight up the steep rock just to the left of the arete.|
|Vertigo||17||*||First ascent: Mar 1963 T. Kerrich and L. Klingman.||Walk 5m up Boulder Kloof then scramble up 6m to grassy platform on right. About 18m up on the left a big overhang will be seen. From grassy platform scramble 6m up to rock platform.||1. 28m 17 From platform climb up right-angled crack well beneath small overhang. Exit left on to red-grey face. Ascend face (steep but with good grips) bearing left. When angle eases move diagonally up right to large stance common to BOULDER SPIRAL route.
2. 11m 10 Climb slightly overhanging ramp to the left of BOULDER SPIRAL to next ledge. 3. 28m 11 Ascend straight up for 8m to two loose slabs near each other. Traverse left and climb up ramp first to the right of shallow recess. Move into recess and ascend it for about 6m before traversing out right again. (Tree above.) Ascend ramp to stance below huge weathered boulder.
|Boulder Helix||17||Well protected cruxes||**||First ascent: 4 Dec 1988 D. Peters and M. Arsenijevic.||Walk 5m up Boulder Kloof from its junction with Tonquani and scramble 5m up to a grassy ledge on the right (as for VERTIGO). A slab capped by a large overhang 15m up lies to the left. A pleasant climb with short, well protected cruxes.||1. 25m 17 Climb diagonally left up the slab to the left end of the large overhang. Move left onto the face and climb up to a ledge (crux). Continue up a few metres to the large ledge shared with BOULDER SPIRAL.
2. 15m 17 From the left end of the large ledge a short undercut ramp leading up to the right allows one to turn the band of overhangs and gain a recess above. Continue up the recess to a good ledge and tree belay. The top pitch of REDNECK goes up the corner behind the tree. 3. 35m 11 A few metres to the left of the tree belay there is a steep chimney. Climb this on good grips to the top.