Truitjieskraal
General Info
Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg, consisting of 85% sport climbing and 15% trad climbing, although this is predominantly a sport climbing venue. The routes are single pitch of moderate length (+/-30m).
The rock type is coarse Sandstone with a range of grades from easy to difficult on vertical to overhanging rock.
The walk-ins are short and you can always find shade somewhere.
Guide book
Wolfberg Cracks, Tony Lourens, 2008
Western Cape Rock, Tony Lourens, 2015
Getting there
Total journey time is 2½-3½ hour drive North of Cape Town of which 1 hour is a good dirt road.
From Cape Town drive north on the N7. About after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about 45 min, until you see the turnoff to the right to Krom River.
Follow the road to the Krom Rivier Campsite. Once at Krom Rivier campsite ask the office for directions (and permit) to Truitjieskraal.
Food & accommodation
Camping at Krom Rivier (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Prices are very good and campsites have electricity.
You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).
Great Restaurant and a Brewery. (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Notes
No camping is allowed in Truitjieskraal
You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free)
Permits are available at the Krom River Office (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Season
Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.
Climbing Areas
Northern Sector
North side of the buttress to the east of Ken’s Block
L>R
Kersie Fees (18 ) **** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2018)
The feature just left of Kersie Fees
L>R
Spiertier (18) *** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Fiksvos (17) **** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Walk north east of Kens Block and this wall is in the next broad corridor and faces south
L>R
Vleis Paleis (15) *** FA: R. Halsey (Oct 2018)
Ramkat (16) *** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
The Zen Den
Could be an adventure to find but well worth it. Either walk west from the Shire and look for it on the left, or walk east from the back of Ken’s Block, up the next broad corridor for some way and turn left and hopefully stumble across it.
L>R
Barry’s Lair (16) **** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Haloumi Gridlock (24) ****
Takes a central line, with a short fierce crux. Climb up to the break and traverse 1m right to below the milk chocolate coloured streak. Tricky moves lead to easier but steeper climbing. The only vertical slot in the brown streak takes a medium wire (offset best), and without it there may be a different type of brown streak. FA: R. Halsey (Oct 2018)
The Shire
Walk east up Gollum’s Gulley and near the top turn left and look for the diminutive little block.
L>R
Frodo (17)*** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Bilbo (14)*** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Samwise (19)*** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
First Parking
The Insex Wall
From the first parking, this small wall is clearly visible if look south east.
L>R
Grass Popper (18) **** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Dune Hug (17) *** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Butter Fry (17) *** FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Oct 2018)
Ken's Block
Sport
- Hot Chocolate (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
- Hunks on the Ceiling (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
- Little Red Riding Helmet (24) FA: K. Schumann 1996
- Cork Soaker (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
- Sock Tucker (20) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
Trad
On the back side of the block
- Jug Face (10) FA: M. Scott 1999
- Jiggle (15) FA: M. Scott 1999
- Juggle (19) FA: M. Scott 1999
- The Groove (13) FA: M. Scott 1999
To the Right of Jug Face
L>R
Sweaty Palms (14) ***
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2018)
Red Turret
Trad
- Rooi Gevaar (13) FA: M. Scott 1998
- Silly Sermon (19)
5m left of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.
FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10
- Yellow River (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
- Big Red (11) FA: M. Scott 1998
These routes are to the right of Big Red, listed left to right
- Scarlet Vantage (16)
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)
- Red Wine Planet (19)
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)
- Raspberry Vice (18)
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)
- Rooi Pypie (17)
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)
There are bolted lower offs at the back if you can find them.
- Brick Rover (18)
Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of Arête and gun for the top.
Walk off and down gulley to right of route.
FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10
White: Brick Rover
Sport
- A-Birdmuda Triangle (6a/18) FA: B. Watts 17/12/2018
- B-Golden Eagle (6b+/21) FA: C. Tooze 01/05/2017
- C-Doom on You (6c/22) FA: C. Tooze 31/12/2018
- D-Flight of the Dodo's (5c/17) FA: R. Tucker 01/01/2018
Flight of the Dodo above
- 1-The Elusive Caracal (5b/16) FA: M. Champion 2019
- 2-Enter the Dragonfly (6c+/23) FA: C. Tooze 23/08/2020
- 3-Brown Eyes (6b+/21) FA: B. Watts Dec 2018
Above-Backside of Red Turret
Gollum's Alley
Trad
- Gollum's Arête (11) FA: M. Scott 2000
- Shelob's Lair (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
- Riddle (14) FA: M. Scott 2000
Dragon's Cleft
Trad
- Dragon Pillar (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
- Dragon Crack (19) FA: Unknown 2000
- Dragon Wall (19) [Top Rope]
- Dragon Face (17) [Top Rope]
- Dragon Breath (15) FA: M. Scott 2000
- Dragoon (15) FA: M. Scott 2000
- Pendragon (18)
Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.
FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
- Komodo Dragon (20)
Make a bold start (possible to protect first moves with micronuts) up to the ledge then step left to the corner. A tricky move up to the next rail, and out left to a little perch. Continue up and right on fantastic holds and then left of the big fin at the top.
FA: R. Halsey (Aug 2018)
- Dragonboat (20)
On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.
FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
- Double Dragon (21)
Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back
FA: J. Hajos 18/6/2011
From the left: Pendragon (18), Dragonboat (20) and Double Dragon (21)
- Cold Chamber (21)
A deceptively tricky recess opposite the Dragon Wall.
FA: R. Halsey (Aug 2018)
Cold Chamber (21)
- Double Down (14)
Walk through the Dragon cleft (from the carpark side) and find a short wall. Follows the recess up the side of the wall.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018
Double Down (14)
This route is in a collection of features opposite (South) of the Dragon area
- Team Vvoooom (16)
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018
Punks in the Cederberg Wall
Sport
From left to right:
- Chasing the Dragon (19) FA: A. von Hase 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans
- Sugarman (20) FA: C. Tooze 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans (Bolt added Dec 2020)
- Radical Dance Party (21) FA: C. Bruton 1996
A classic!
- Punks in the Cederberg (26) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
A hold might have broken on this route since it seems several grades harder than 26
- Route the Brute (25) C. Bruton 1996
A new bolt avoids the left traverse. This is an awesome line!
- Skunks in the Bin (25) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.
Trad
- Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott 1998
- The Crack (22) FA: C. Edelstein 2002
- Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
- Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott 1998
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.
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Mandalorian Wall
Sport
- Sooka (23) FA: C. Tooze 31/12/2020
Cave Buttress
- The Cave (16) FA: T. Versfeld, C. Edelstein 2003
- Un Petit Problème (18) ***
Climb the centre of the east face of the small pillar, to the right of the cave art encountered on the path from the second car park. At the top, walk across and step across the crevice to the main buttress and find a suitable abseil point.
FA: R. Halsey & R Strate (Nov 2019)
Twin Columns
- Twin Column (14) FA: M. Scott 2001
- Twin Peaks (21) ***
On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
- Two for One (17) ***
Start about 3m right of Twin Peaks. Climb a short a ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
- Kissing Towers (19)***
Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.
FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)
- Twins Fears (18) **
Great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
Left to Right: Twin Peaks, Two for One, Kissing Towers, Twin Fears. Abseil point at top of Two for One (as at Dec 2017)
The Arch
- Tripping Through her Wire (24) FA: C. Martinengo 2004
Gateway Prow
- Truitjies Rib (14) FA: M. Scott 1999
Tre Putane
- Lilly Slapped Silly (10) FA: M. Scott 2001
- Donald Where's Your Troosers (16) FA: M. Scott 2001
- Suzy Q (13) FA: M. Scott 2001
- Average Man (20) ****
Pull over the initial bulge, then step left and up the blunt arête. Step back right to series of vertical cracks starting at a small tree growing in the cubby hole. Great climbing up the cracks to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
- Everyday Hero (15) ***
Step up onto a platform below a smooth white, blank section. Pull up into a series of short vertical cracks that tend up and left.
FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)
Left to Right: Average Man, Everyday Hero. Abseil point between these two routes (as at Dec 2017)
Gift Buttress
- The Gift (11) FA: M. Scott 2002
- The Ribbon (14) FA: M. Scott 2002
Cave Block
Scramble up from the path into the long, tunnel-like cave.
Trad
- The Mud And The Blood And The Beer (30)
Start up the pillar and climb the roof crack finishing out of the cave and up to the top. Climb carefully over the small bush in the middle without damaging it before dropping down briefly to the finger rail. Trad plus two bolts.
FA: D. Steyn, November 2022
- name? (28)
Start on the outside of the cave facing the main gully. Pull up and reach right into a corner. Climb this, rail left under the roof, and pull up onto the headwall.
FA: M. Seuring, 2021
Cleavage Wall
- Dagga Boys (25) FA: A. Davies 2022
- A-Schlot Machine (24) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
- B-The Abyss (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
- C-Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22) FA: T. Lourens 2011
- D-That Booty Magic (20) FA: C.Tooze 18 March 2018
Cormac on 'That Booty Magic'
Hueco Punks Area
Sport
From left to right:
- Nice Enough (15) FA: S. Lundgren 1996
- Knee Bar Wager (17) FA: Amy Whistler 1996
- Hueco Punks (26) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
Fun dyno! - Crimping Christmas (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
Same start as Hueco Punks - Knees Up (18) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
- Nick Nack (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
- Paddy Whack (20) FA: P. McCann 1996
- Give the Dog a Bone (18) FA: P. McCann 1996
- Skinhead Stomp (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
- Way to Go (15) FA: M. Scott 1996
Trad
Right of sport routes
- Macarena (12) FA: M. Scott 2002
- Ketchup (8) FA: M. Scott 2002
Give Away Wall
Sport
From left to right:
- Flint Hard (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
- Flint Soft (22) FA: M. Roberts 1996
- Old Codgers Ego Boost (23/24) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
- Project J. Temple-Forbes.
- The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (28) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
- The Passion (25) FA: J. Samson 1996 (Origonally graded "a soft 26 J.W.S." Concensus is 25)
- The Golden Handshake (34) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
- Million Dollar Giveaway (29) FA: A. Cameron-Duff 1996
- Weasels Ripped my Flesh (18/19) FA: T. Lourens Nov. 2014
Trad
- Ignition (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
- The Flint Tube (19)
Take the Tube left of Flint Hard and follow the left side of the higher feature and step back right to the chains of Flint Hard at the top.
FA: R. Halsey 2019
- Snake and Mirrors (21) ****
Take the wide slot that eventually narrows to a hand crack above the pod, between The Passion and Golden Handshake. Better than it looks.
FA: R. Halsey 2019
- Jam Crack (24) FA: H. Zak 2002
Rattler Buttress
Sport
From left to right:
- Lang Arm (23) FA: A. McCann 2006
- Knucklehead Mac Spazmatron (26) FA: J. Terblanche 2006
- These Violent Delights (22) FA: M.Wiswedel 2018 - could be harder if you're short
- Oil Spikes (25) FA: J. Samson 2006 - Hanger missing and loose bolt in the middle of the route.
- Forked Tongue (23) FA: P. McCann 2006
- Mad Moose Disease (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996 - Hanger missing on the first bolt. Missing top anchor.
- Mad Cowboys Disease (31) FA: T. Skinner 1996
Trad
- The Sokkie Showdown (22)
Takes the crack to the left of Lang Arm. The start is tricky and although there is good gear there is potential for a ground fall. At the top move right to use Lang Arm anchors.
FA: R.Halsey 2019
- Micky Mouse Rib (10) FA: M. Scott 2002
- Rattle my Chops (15) FA: M. Scott 1998
Parkinson's Wall
- Shake(22) [Top Rope]
- Rattle (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
- Roll(13) FA: M. Scott 1999
Alzheimer's Area
Sport
From left to right:
- Alzheimer's (21) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
- Schizophrenia (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
- Unforgettable (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
- Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
Trad
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.
Rattlesnake Arête
Sport
- Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
Thanks to Brian Godfrey, this route now has a set of chains at the top. Supplied by Malcolm Gowans.
The missing hanger on the first bolt has also been replaced.
The runout till the first bolt is about six meters so one really has to focus :-)
Trad
- Where? (11) FA: M. Scott 1999
Climb the obvious chimney left of Rattlesnake Arête.
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.
Rattlesnake Sector
This is the wall to the right of Rattlesnake Arête. Currently there are no routes on this wall.
On the far right-hand side of Rattlesnake Sector and set back is an obvious prow with an oval grove two-thirds of the way up. This is Slither Prow.
Routes left to right are:
1 - Dither 13 *** (Trad) M Gowans 2017
2 - Slither 18 *** (9B+C) M Gowans 2017
3 - Mantis 25 **** (9B+C) M Gowans 2019
4 - Gimme Some 16 **** (9B+C) J Gordon & M Gowans 2017
5 - Cortisone Crisis 17 **** (9B+C) A Ellis & M Gowans 2017
Snake Charmer Area
Sport
From left to right:
- The Snake Charmer (27) FA: T. Skinner 1996
- King Cobra (24) FA: T. Skinner 1996
- Pass the Ham (27) FA: J. Samson 1996
- BOA (19) * FA: M.Gowans & Johno Gordon 2017
- Viper (23) * FA M.Gowans 2018
- Get Shorty (23) FA: J. Samson 1996
- Babe (22) FA: J. Samson 1996
Trad
- High Speed Cow (26?) ****
Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.
Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.
Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.
FA: R. Halsey and S. Nightingale (July 2018)
High Speed Cow
- The Blizzard Beast? (24/25) *****
Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it!
Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face.
For the full experience, climb it during a snow storm and collect your Sub-zero Hero badge at the top.
FA: R. Halsey (Aug 2018)
The Blizzard Beast
- Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott 1996
Can Can Alley
Ross Suter and Malcolm Gowans were the first to climb in this area in 1998. In 2002 Patrick McCann and Mike Scott added a number of quality trad routes. Sport climbing only began when Malcolm Gowans and Cormac Tooze then put up the first sport routes in 2011. Since then the number of Sport routes has gown substantially.
This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area. From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. follow the cairns right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall
Sport
From left to right
- Freechild (17) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
- Fynhoud (19) FA: A. von Hase, M. Gowans Jan 2015
- Dust Devil (24) FA: M. Gowans Jan 2015
- Wicked (18) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
- Dynosmite (19) FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
- Skeletium Skank (23) FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
- Chasing my Bokkie (16) FA: Malcolm Gowans 21-12-2013.
- Spring Haasie Spring (14) FA: Amrei von Hase 21-12-2013. Bolted by M Gowans & A von Hase
- Luna Llena (16) FA: Javier Gutierrez. 07-09-2014. Bolted by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans
- Lucky Strike (21) A: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase
- Candlewood (15)***** FA: Patrick McCann. 2014
- Moulin Rouge {left start} (15) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
- Moulin Rouge (17) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
- Chorus Line (17) FA: Mike Scott Jan 2015 Bolted by Patrick McCann
- Burlesque (18) FA: Patrick McCann Apr 2015
Trad
From left to right
- A: ChaCha (16) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2002): Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress.
- B: Tap Dance (12) FA: Patrick McCann, Mike Scott and Adele McCann (2002): Well protected climb through lay back at 1/3rd height and then steep jugs to top.
- C: CanCan Arête (13) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004):
- D: CanCan Diagonal (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004)
- E: CanCan Central (14) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
- F: Grey Arête (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
- G: Candlewood (16) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann (2014) – Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge, climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A nice, well protected line - keep your large nut (BD size 13) for the vertical crack. (now bolted)
- Birthday Suit (21?) ***
The vague arête just right of Skeletium Skank.Tricky start followed by lovely, but slightly run out climbing. FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2018)
Birthday Suit
- Hot Tango (15)
Start about 5m right of CanCan Diagonal, at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds. Then continue straight to the top of the crag.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
- Summer Salsa (15)
Start about 5m right of Hot Tango. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
Left to right: Hot Tango, Summer Salsa. There are now chains for a sport route about ¾ the way up between these two routes that could be used for descent.
- Camel Man (16)
Start about 2m right of Moulin Rouge and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m.
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett (Dec 2017)
- Striptease (16)
Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start.
FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)
Beer Hall
Sport
The Beer Hall This is a small area (with some brilliant quality routes) accessed either at the top of Can Can or from the last paring lot.
- Cedar Brew (18) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann November 2015
- Cedar Stout (20) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2016
- The Snip (22/23) FA: J. Temple-Forbe 2018 (Clips the first couple of bolts of Cedar Stout then moves right)
- Constant Crying (27) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 2018 (On the wall right of 'The Snips' ending)
- Lemony (16)**** FA: Amrei von Hase, Bolted by M. Gowans Jan 2020
- Cedar Weiss (16) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann Dec 2017
- Cedar Blonde (16) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
Trad
- Beer O'clock (15)
Climbs the left side of the wall to the right of Cedar Blonde. Head up to a left facing corner ~8m up, move right and then back left to the face above.
FA: R. Halsey & B. Higgins
Micro Brew Wall
Sport
- C-Phuzu Face (21) FA: C. Tooze 08/12/2018
- D-Hangover (22) IP: J. Sowter
- Babelas (18) FA: O. Williams 30/12/2020 (Climb the blunt Arete to the right)
Beth on Phuza Face-21
Sarie Marais Gulley
Sport
- A-Sweet and Sticky (17) FA: A. Chiat 2017
- B-1-Sarie Marais (22) FA: C. Tooze 02/01/2018
- B-2-Mooi River (22) FA: C. Tooze 02/01/2020 (Clips the first bolts of Sarie Marais up to the ledge then moves right)
Aimée on Sweet and Sticky-17
Susana on Sarie Marais-21/22
Trad
- The Raven Robber (15) ***
Follows the crack opposite Sweet and Sticky. At the top of the wall, you can step across the gap to the anchors of Sweet and Sticky to get down.
FA: R. Halsey & R Strate (Nov 2019)
- Shortbread Shortage (17) **
Start 4m right of Sweet and Sticky. Follow the break, to the right of some loose looking flakes higher up and through an overlap.
FA: R. Halsey & R Strate (Nov 2019)
- Balancing Act (18) ***
In the middle of left hand wall (facing towards Can Can area) is a finger crack. Follow this to the ledge, then step right and climb the short steep face above (this is actual a large block that appears to be balancing on the top of the gulley, so user discretion is advised).
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett
- Medunsa (18) ***
To the right of Balancing Act is a broken hand crack, and right of that is a separate face. Climb the middle of this face to the top. Some tricky gear in places, and some slightly fragile rock.
FA: R. Halsey
- Tunnel Vision (15) ****
Really good and steep for the grade. On the wall opposite Balancing Act, is a dark brown recess with a crack line running up out of it. Climb up to the recess and straight up the steep wall above.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters
Left to Right: Balancing Act, Medunsa, Cuddlefish
Kiddies Wall
Small but aesthetic block between Sarie Marais Alley and Can Can Area
- Snow Fish (15)
More or less on the left side of the face
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)
- Cuddle Fish (13)
Take a central line up the short, dark red face.
R.Halsey & F. Walters
Eco Talk
South east of the Beer Hall (Brew Routes)
L>R
Aerial Antics (18) FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2018)
Exie Skeleton (17) FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2018)
Blou Koppie (15) FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2018)
Shower Spider (13) FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2018)
Third Car park area
These two routes are on the wall that forms the gulley on the first buttress to the right of the King Cobra Prow.
To be named (17?)
Start up the break on the left of the wall and at the ledge pull onto the second half of the wall just to the left of the corner of the roof.
FA: T. Versveld & R. Halsey (Mar 2018)
Chubby Head Stout (21?)
Start up the middle break with a tricky start. At the ledge step right to use a lower section of the roof to pull through and then step left and straight up the face to the top. Start will be harder for shorter folks.
FA: R. Halsey & T. Versveld (Mar 2018)
L to R: To be named, Chubby Head Stout.
This route is on the small face in front of the second buttress to the right of King Cobra Prow.
Yellow Fish Lager (23)
Head up the face to an overlap. Pull right to layback and up to the narrow roof. Crank through using the finger crack and easily to the ledge. Walk off right.
FA: R. Halsey & T. Versveld (Mar 2018)
Yellow Fish Lager
These two routes are on the left side on the Bushman Wall, which forms a pillar when viewed head on. Abseil tat as of Mar 2018.
Catfish Ale (17)
Start up the beak on the right side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep ground to the blunt arête, which ends at a small ledge.
FA: R. Halsey & T. Versveld (Mar 2018)
To be named (16)
Start up the beak on the left side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep section and straight to the top.
FA: T. Versveld & R. Halsey (Mar 2018)
L to R:Catfish Ale, to be named
Bushman Wall
These are in the Wolfberg Cracks guide book
Boesman (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
Lena (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
Rockart (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
Poison Arrow (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
Water Skin (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
Medicine Man (17)
Climbs diagonally up the face to the right of Lena
FA: O. Williams & R. Halsey (Feb 2019)
San Man (18)
Start in the gully and up the face until able to move left and up the right arete of the largest section of the Bushman Wall
FA: R. Halsey & O. Williams (Feb 2019)
L to R: Medicine Man, San Man
These routes are on the second small wall to the right of the Bushman Wall
Klip Man (15)
Start just to the right of a small overhang and climb in the centre of the face.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Mar 2018)
Khoi Son (17)
Start near Klip Man but head up and tend right to the top right corner of the wall.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Mar 2018)
L to R: Klip Man, Khoi Son
These two routes are on the left of the collection of buttresses behind and right of Bushman Wall as viewed from the 3rd carpark.
From the Babe Area car park, walk past the Bushman wall on the right for a few mins to the buttress.
Striped Horse (16)
Start just right of a recess and then more or less straight to the top with a steep section in the middle.
FA: R. Halsey (Mar 2018)
Tall Horse (18)
Takes the vague arête on the right of the buttress at the entrance to the gulley.
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Mar 2018)
L to R: Striped Horse, Tall Horse
Wasp Factory (19)
Start on the central pillar and climb up over a small lip on 'ok' gear. Continue up over a small roof and straight up to the top of the wall on good rails. Descend off the back via a sketchy scramble or ab off using tat.
FA: M.Wiswedel & C.Standing
Auburn Strawberries (14)
Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around.
FA: R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010
Auburn Strawberries
Photos
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