Upper Campground Boulders

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This is the bouldering area above and to the left of the campsite to the south-east on a slighlty higher level. You can easily walk to this area from the campsite. Find the bridge over the stream in the campsite, cross it and walk along the dirt road, leftward (east) until you get to three small houses where the caretaker stays. Follow a path between the left two houses and then leftward or up to the Pale Rider boulder.

Rocklands upper campground.gif

The Woody – A 1. NO RUDDER V4/6C? Start on the pebbled sloper on the arete and climb straight up. 2. USE YOUR RUDDER V5/6C+ **** Start as for NO RUDDER and go up to your right to a sloper and finish as for EVAN’S PROBLEM. The lower crimps on THE WOODY are off route. 3. THE WOODY V8/7B **** Sit start from edges just to the left of EVAN’S PROBLEM. Reach left to an edge and then to the top. The grips to the left on the arete are off route. 4. EVAN’S PROBLEM V9/7B+ *** Sit start in the middle of the boulder from an undercling for the left and an edge for the right. Climb straight up on small edges. First Ascent: Evan Wiercx

Boulder B 1. LUMPY FACED RUSSIANS V2/5 *** Sit start and traverse from the right to the left of the broken lumpy face.

Boulder C 1. NO NAME V6/7A *** Sit start where the two boulders touch overhead on the left. Start with two good grips and then traverse to the right on edges. Finish straight up.

Boulder D 1. NO NAME V8/7B *** Start low on some big holds near the left edge of the NW face of the boulder. Make a long reach up and left to a good edge and then cross over to some jugs at the top.

Boulder E 1. SPROING V8/7B? *** Establish with both hands in the undercling and jump for the top.

Smiley Boulder – F 1. SMILEY V8/7B *** Start just left of the corner, climb around the corner to some good holds and then traverse right at the same level. The holds at the top of the boulder are off-route. 2. MOOSETACHE V3/6A+ ** Start on the good grips on the left of the SMILEY face, move up to the grips on the left corner and top out.

Rasta Roof – G 1. RASTA ROOF V10/7C+ **** Start deep inside the cave on the right. Start with both hands on an undercling, follow some edges in the crack to a big sloper for the left. Finish on some big holds by mantling. 2. ONYOUREAR V5/6C+ *** Start on the rock to the right of the cave on the sloping arete with your left and a crimp on the face for your right, move up right to slopers and top out. First Ascent: Paul Brouard Jan 2002

Boulder H 1. NO NAME V2/5C ** Sit down start, climb up the short and slightly overhanging wall.

Boulder I 1. NO NAME V4/6B+ ** Sit start and then straight up on the right side of the arete. 2. NO NAME V6/7A ** Sit start just to the left of the small cave and then straight up. 3. THE CARBUNKLE TRAVERSE V9/7C *** Sit start in the left of the small cave, traverse left keeping low to finish on H1. 4. NO NAME V6/7A ** Start on sidepull for the left and a pocket for the right, reach to another pocket – quite a long move. 5. NO NAME V3/6B * Start on the obvious big holds and the climb to the top of the roof.

Pale Rider Boulder – J This is the large boulder behind the left-most cabin a little way up the hill. You can approach this boulder from the right or by walking up the orange and black slabs.

1. NO NAME V6/7A *** Sit start on the right hand side of the west facing side of the boulder on the arete with good holds on the left of the arete. Stay on the left of the arete, using a sloping pocket for the right hand, top out. 2. NO NAME V5/6C+ ** Start as for I1 then move up to a sidepull for the left, a long move to a hold on the right of the arete the top out slightly leftward. 3. YESTERDAY V10 ** Start on an arete with a sloping knob for the left hand and an edge for the right hand. Make a long reach to a sidepull with the right. Use an edge on the right of the arete with the left to move the right hand to an undercling. Take a small edge above the undercling with the left and move far right to top out. 4. PALE RIDER V10/7C+ ***** Sit start in the centre of the SE side of the boulder on a good sidepull. Pull rather hard to a small edge for the right hand and then make a long move to a seam on the left to top out. 5. NO NAME V7/7A+ *** Climbs the left hand crack, the ramp at the base is not allowed. 6. NO NAME V5/6C+ ** Climbs the right-hand crack.